I now qualify as a Novice Stringer

Got my stringing machine this morning (Gamma Progression II 602) and I have just finished stringing my first racquet (at the 2nd attempt).

On the first attempt (BG66 at 22lb) the main snapped somewhere near the tie off knot as I neared the end of the crosses.

On the 2nd attempt (BG66 at 22lb again - I have a lot of BG66 lying around and nothing particularly thicker to practise with) I was a bit more careful tying the knots and everything went ok.

congratulation. BTW, you didn't mention about the frame shape ;)

It was my cheapo Carlton Aerogear 1000 FX. It started as an oval and finished up a fraction narrower in the 2/10 o'clock, and a bit fatter in the 5/7 o'clock area compared to an unstrung as-ti. Pretty much the same shape as an as1 strung by someone else.

It was my cheapo Carlton Aerogear 1000 FX. It started as an oval and finished up a fraction narrower in the 2/10 o'clock, and a bit fatter in the 5/7 o'clock area compared to an unstrung as-ti. Pretty much the same shape as an as1 strung by someone else.

I see u followed the yonex's stringing pattern :p
what type is your machine, drop wt or spring tensioned crank style?

what type is your machine, drop wt or spring tensioned crank style?

Drop weight.
I just copied the pattern that was in before.

Neil,

congratulations! stringing racket is not for the faint of heart. the amount of tension you are pulling on that poor baby is quite a lot (enough force to raise a small car). this a first step to a whole world of learning. start from the basics and move up from there. there are quite a few discussions here in BF as well as articles on the net.

good luck!

Congrats!!!

How long it took you for the 2nd attempt? I am sure after another several trials, you can speed up and enjoy the process even more. Time to get some baddy VCDs, as string+VCD is a wonderful combo. :D

Just let me know when you'll start using gut ;) My stringer hates it because it unravels and splits when stringing if you are not carefull.

Well done it's all easier from here on in, the first one is always the hardest.

Thanks Kwun.
I know. I think I've read most of them.
And now I'll be going back to them looking for tips on weaving the crosses.
That seems to be my slowest bit. But then I'm pulling the string through quite slow to avoid friction burns. I don't know how fast is safe, so I have to do it slow.
I'll have to dig out that link to the Silent Partner stringing contest video.

are you doing a diagonal pull? reduces friction/burn. pulls much faster.

It was my cheapo Carlton Aerogear 1000 FX. It started as an oval and finished up a fraction narrower in the 2/10 o'clock, and a bit fatter in the 5/7 o'clock area compared to an unstrung as-ti. Pretty much the same shape as an as1 strung by someone else.

The slight distortion at the 2/10 o'clock and 5/7 o'clock areas are typical of a 2-point machine without side supports, if you string the crosses from the top towards the throat. However, you can minimize the distortion by stringing the crosses from the middle. Using a starting clamp will be useful if you plan to string the crosses from the middle. :)

How long it took you for the 2nd attempt? Time to get some baddy VCDs.

over an hour.
I've got loads from Han already.

found some misweaves in my first two.
Third looks ok.

Here's something else I learnt.
Dont string black string in poor lighting.
Stringing in daylight is easier than under a 60 watt bulb

are you doing a diagonal pull? reduces friction/burn. pulls much faster.
yep.
but like I say, I don't know how fast is fast.
Time will tell, I guess.

Can't you use a cheaper string ? It must get pretty expensive practising with BG66

The slight distortion at the 2/10 o'clock and 5/7 o'clock areas are typical of a 2-point machine without side supports, if you string the crosses from the top towards the throat. However, you can minimize the distortion by stringing the crosses from the middle. Using a starting clamp will be useful if you plan to string the crosses from the middle. :)


It is a 6-point. The distortion was maybe 0.5mm each side.
I have considered starting from the middle (which would also mean less string to pull through with each weave), but I've been almost coming up short on string at the end of the crosses. From overestimating how much I needed for the mains.

Can't you use a cheaper string ? It must get pretty expensive practising with BG66
i actually think it is a wise choice, for two reasons...

1. bg66 is thin. Neil is just starting up so thinner string may be easier to string.

2. bg66 is fragile. Neil just got a brand new toy and like most, i want to play with my toys more often when they are new. if he strings with bg65, no matter how hard he smashes, the next time he get to string a new racket will be at least a few weeks. if he strings with bg66, he smash like crazy maybe he can have a racket to play with (erm... string) next weekend....

see? :D

Here's something else I learnt.
Dont string black string in poor lighting.

That make my day! I laughed so loud when I red that!

But I find you patient stringing rackets (sp?). I would throw the machine by the window if I had some problems doing a little tie!!!

Well done buddy!

JRMTL

It is a 6-point. The distortion was maybe 0.5mm each side.
I have considered starting from the middle (which would also mean less string to pull through with each weave), but I've been almost coming up short on string at the end of the crosses. From overestimating how much I needed for the mains.

I don't quite understand : if you have a 6-point machine, presumbly one with a top and throat and 4 side supports, and if the 4 point (8 supports) side has V-shaped supports, there should be no distortion. The V-shaped side supports, if properly and securely mounted should eliminate any outward distortion. The inward distortion at the 2/10 o'clock position is only possible if there is a compensating outward distortion at the 5/7 o'clock position. With the side V-shaped supports, no outward distortion is possible. If there is no outward distortion, then no inward distortion is possible.
I have found using 19 feet for the mains and the balance for the crosses to fit almost any type of racquet. :)

Can't you use a cheaper string ? It must get pretty expensive practising with BG66

Lying around I had 6x BG66, 1x BG70Pro, 1x Gosen Biogut Bio Roots 70, 1x Ashaway Rally 22.

I'm might stop using BG66 when my stock runs out, so it's less of a loss if I mes up.

The inward distortion at the 2/10 o'clock position is only possible if there is a compensating outward distortion at the 5/7 o'clock position.

I dont think inward distortion has to compensated for by outward distortion at 5/7. The head and throat supports are internal only. They are not clamp down. So inward distortion at 2/10 could be compensated by expansion along the 12/6 axis. Then, when the 5/7 supports are removed, the frame relaxes into whatever shape it wants.

I could be wrong.

P.S.
I haven't been adding extra lb for the crosses. I've used the same for X and M.

congrats..dont give up and try to improve on your technique..practise makes perfect.

I dont think inward distortion has to compensated for by outward distortion at 5/7. The head and throat supports are internal only. They are not clamp down. So inward distortion at 2/10 could be compensated by expansion along the 12/6 axis. Then, when the 5/7 supports are removed, the frame relaxes into whatever shape it wants.

I could be wrong.

P.S.
I haven't been adding extra lb for the crosses. I've used the same for X and M.

The head and throat supports, whether simple posts that are slipped behind the inner side of the frame or screwed-down clamps, should not elongate the frame either sidewards or along its axis if they are properly fitted. If your side supports are 4-point with 8 V-shaped supports and if all the mountings and supports are properly mounted, any pulling of the crosses at the 2/10 o'clock area will tend to distort inward at the top half of the frame but this is being held back by the V-shaped supports at the 5/7 o'clock area. There is no expansion along the 12/6 o'clock axis, only a slight inward distortion at the 12 o'clock position if your head and throat supports are simple posts, but none at the 6 o'clock area. A properly mounted racquet should look the same before and after removing the v-shaped side supports, instead of allowing it to "relax to whatever shape it wants", which is leaving it too much to chance.
The crosses should be strung about 10% higher than the mains. The reason becomes obvious if you can get a small piece of flexible rattan and shape it to look like an egg. You will notice that pressing the egg-shaped rattan at the 3/9 o'clock position requires more pressure than pressing at the 12/6 o'clock postion to create an equal amount of distortion. The 12/6 o'clock axis is longer than the 3/9 o'clock axis, which means the longer axis will distort more when equal pressure is used on both axis. :D