Question about Eagnas EASY-3

[FAST!]

My friend and I bought the Easnas EASY-3 last week. We found out the diamond-coated, dual-action metal swivel clamp (fixed clamp) couldn't reach the badminton racquet when we mounted the badminton racquet to all six mounting points. we needed to lift up the fixed clamp to clamp the string. However, due to the weight of the clamp (metal), it's kinda heavy and will pull the string down. That way, it affects the tension. He wants to know is there any way to lift up the clamp, so that it can reach the switch the string appropriately?

Could you please let me know how to do it or is it something wrong for the fixed clamp itself?

Thanks in advance.

[Neil Nicholls]

didn't we have the same question a few week ago
was the answer something to do with a spring to hold the clamp up?

[extremenanopowe]

No support huh? Must be a way to control the heights. Else, a manufacturing defects.
rgds:D


My friend and I bought the Easnas EASY-3 last week. We found out the diamond-coated, dual-action metal swivel clamp (fixed clamp) couldn't reach the badminton racquet when we mounted the badminton racquet to all six mounting points. we needed to lift up the fixed clamp to clamp the string. However, due to the weight of the clamp (metal), it's kinda heavy and will pull the string down. That way, it affects the tension. He wants to know is there any way to lift up the clamp, so that it can reach the switch the string appropriately?

Could you please let me know how to do it or is it something wrong for the fixed clamp itself?

Thanks in advance.

[Quasimodo]

My friend and I bought the Easnas EASY-3 last week. We found out the diamond-coated, dual-action metal swivel clamp (fixed clamp) couldn't reach the badminton racquet when we mounted the badminton racquet to all six mounting points. we needed to lift up the fixed clamp to clamp the string. However, due to the weight of the clamp (metal), it's kinda heavy and will pull the string down. That way, it affects the tension. He wants to know is there any way to lift up the clamp, so that it can reach the switch the string appropriately?

Could you please let me know how to do it or is it something wrong for the fixed clamp itself?

Thanks in advance.

The swivel clamps can't be at the same height as the stringbed or you wouldn't be able to manoeuvre them (i.e., clamp off and clamp on an adjacent string). Is that what you mean?

IMHO, the only time you have a bit of problem with the clamps pulling the strings down is when you do the first 2 centre mains. And there are ways to alleviate that (e.g., use a starting clamp, removable washers to temporarily hold up the clamps, etc.).

[DinkAlot]

Best to contact Eagnas and have them answer your question.

[FAST!]

didn't we have the same question a few week ago
was the answer something to do with a spring to hold the clamp up?

Thank You for the info. Would you please let me know which post was it?

[FAST!]

Best to contact Eagnas and have them answer your question.

I also emailed to Eagnas. I'm waiting from their reply.

Thanks

[FAST!]

The swivel clamps can't be at the same height as the stringbed or you wouldn't be able to manoeuvre them (i.e., clamp off and clamp on an adjacent string). Is that what you mean?

IMHO, the only time you have a bit of problem with the clamps pulling the strings down is when you do the first 2 centre mains. And there are ways to alleviate that (e.g., use a starting clamp, removable washers to temporarily hold up the clamps, etc.).

I'm using the flying clamp when set up the first 2 centra mains. Is it okay?

[FAST!]

No support huh? Must be a way to control the heights. Else, a manufacturing defects.
rgds:D

Well, I hope not.

[DinkAlot]

I'm using the flying clamp when set up the first 2 centra mains. Is it okay?

Yes, this is what I do. Just make sure to double back and double tension the clamped 2 central main strings, just to make sure there's no slack.

[Neil Nicholls]

Thank You for the info. Would you please let me know which post was it?

http://www.badmintonforum.com/vb/showthread.php?t=24509

[FAST!]

http://www.badmintonforum.com/vb/showthread.php?t=24509

Thank you very much.:)

[FAST!]

Thank you guys, it was a great help to solve this mystery (at least to me) :o

[taneepak]

Using only flying clamps to start stringing from the middle mains is not the best way on the Easy-3. You have one swivel clamp, which can be used as a starting clamp. This machine is best with another 3 flying clamps to go with it's swivel clamp. I am sure you can figure out on how to use the swivel clamp as a starting clamp without the clamp pulling the string down. :D

[DinkAlot]

Using only flying clamps to start stringing from the middle mains is not the best way on the Easy-3. You have one swivel clamp, which can be used as a starting clamp. This machine is best with another 3 flying clamps to go with it's swivel clamp. I am sure you can figure out on how to use the swivel clamp as a starting clamp without the clamp pulling the string down. :D

Yes, hindsight is 20/20. Looking back, I should have purchased an Easy-3 instead of the ST-200 because of the swivel clamp, it's so handy.

[FAST!]

Using only flying clamps to start stringing from the middle mains is not the best way on the Easy-3. You have one swivel clamp, which can be used as a starting clamp. This machine is best with another 3 flying clamps to go with it's swivel clamp. I am sure you can figure out on how to use the swivel clamp as a starting clamp without the clamp pulling the string down. :D

I'm sorry. how to setup the swivel clamp as a starting clamp? Please advice?

[DinkAlot]

I'm sorry. how to setup the swivel clamp as a starting clamp? Please advice?

Please read the instructions that come with your stringing machine. :D

[taneepak]

Please read the instructions that come with your stringing machine. :D

No, don't follow the instructions if you have two or more flying clamps to supplement your swivel clamp. If you have two or more flying clamps you can use the following procedure.
Insert the main string at the middle, one string coming out on grommet TL1 (throat left #1), and the other string coming out from grommet TR1 (throat right #1) after going up HL1 and HR1 (head left #1 and head right #1). With your right hand pull the two strings at the throat end taut and straight. Position the swivel clamp to clamp on the inside of the frame at TL1 and clamp the string. If you pull the strings tight the clamped string will not drop down. Then pull the string at TR1 very tight with your right hand and put it into the string gripper. Crank the tensioner and tension the string. Use one flying clamp next to the swivel clamp and clamp the two taut strings. Then take another two flying clamps and clamp the two strings at the racquet head, the first one as near the inner edge of the frame as possibe, the other one next to it. If you have another flying clamp, you can clamp the two strings in the middle. Take the string out from TR1 and put into TR2, up into HR2 (head right grommet #2). Swing the gripper around and take the string coming out from HR2 and put into string gripper. Tension the string, then take the first flying clamp at the racquet head and clamp near the inner edge of the frame on the two strings on the right. You now have two flying clamps at the head clamping 3 strings. Swing the machine around and tension the string that comes out from TL1, making sure that you loosen the swivel clamp slightly as you reach the set tension. Re-clamp the swivel clamp. Swing the machine around, take the string from TL1 and put into TL2 and then up into HL2, and then tension. Take the flying clamp at the throat end and clamp the two strings on the left near the racquet head, but leave enough space for the swivel clamp. Loosen the swivel clamp and clamp it near the inner edge at HL2. You now have 4 main strings tensioned, with 2 flying clamps clamping 3 strings at the top on one side and one swivel clamp and one flying clamp at the top but on the other side. The rest is simply one right and then one left.
From now on, you can dispense with the swivel clamp if you have 4 flying clamps. However, you must use the swivel clamp on the last two main strings on both side ends.
For the crosses, the swivel clamp is a must for clamping the first cross string. For the second cross string, use one flying clamp with the swivel clamp. All subsequent cross strings can use two flying clamps without the use of the swivel clamp. When using two flying clamps on one side of the mains or the crosses. you must clamp them on 3 tensioned strings, with the middle string being clamped by both clamps, and the two clamps must be next to each other.

[DinkAlot]

Huh? :confused: A picture is worth a thousand words. :D

Also, for me, since I usually do a two knot, I would just use the swivel clamp to hold the main string to start. That's it.

[taneepak]

Huh? :confused: A picture is worth a thousand words. :D

Also, for me, since I usually do a two knot, I would just use the swivel clamp to hold the main string to start. That's it.

Is it that difficult to follow? Perhaps you can draw some diagrams from the description and I will confirm if they reflect what I wrote.

[FAST!]

No, don't follow the instructions if you have two or more flying clamps to supplement your swivel clamp. If you have two or more flying clamps you can use the following procedure.
Insert the main string at the middle, one string coming out on grommet TL1 (throat left #1), and the other string coming out from grommet TR1 (throat right #1) after going up HL1 and HR1 (head left #1 and head right #1). With your right hand pull the two strings at the throat end taut and straight. Position the swivel clamp to clamp on the inside of the frame at TL1 and clamp the string. If you pull the strings tight the clamped string will not drop down. Then pull the string at TR1 very tight with your right hand and put it into the string gripper. Crank the tensioner and tension the string. Use one flying clamp next to the swivel clamp and clamp the two taut strings. Then take another two flying clamps and clamp the two strings at the racquet head, the first one as near the inner edge of the frame as possibe, the other one next to it. If you have another flying clamp, you can clamp the two strings in the middle. Take the string out from TR1 and put into TR2, up into HR2 (head right grommet #2). Swing the gripper around and take the string coming out from HR2 and put into string gripper. Tension the string, then take the first flying clamp at the racquet head and clamp near the inner edge of the frame on the two strings on the right. You now have two flying clamps at the head clamping 3 strings. Swing the machine around and tension the string that comes out from TL1, making sure that you loosen the swivel clamp slightly as you reach the set tension. Re-clamp the swivel clamp. Swing the machine around, take the string from TL1 and put into TL2 and then up into HL2, and then tension. Take the flying clamp at the throat end and clamp the two strings on the left near the racquet head, but leave enough space for the swivel clamp. Loosen the swivel clamp and clamp it near the inner edge at HL2. You now have 4 main strings tensioned, with 2 flying clamps clamping 3 strings at the top on one side and one swivel clamp and one flying clamp at the top but on the other side. The rest is simply one right and then one left.
From now on, you can dispense with the swivel clamp if you have 4 flying clamps. However, you must use the swivel clamp on the last two main strings on both side ends.
For the crosses, the swivel clamp is a must for clamping the first cross string. For the second cross string, use one flying clamp with the swivel clamp. All subsequent cross strings can use two flying clamps without the use of the swivel clamp. When using two flying clamps on one side of the mains or the crosses. you must clamp them on 3 tensioned strings, with the middle string being clamped by both clamps, and the two clamps must be next to each other.

taneepak,

Thanks for the info. Now, I know how to use the swivel clamp. :D I have few questions to ask you::o

1) "You now have two flying clamps at the head clamping 3 strings. Swing the machine around and tension the string that comes out from TL1, making sure that you loosen the swivel clamp slightly as you reach the set tension. Re-clamp the swivel clamp" - What does this mean? Why I need to lossen the swivel clamp a bit? Will it loss some tension if I lossen the swivel clamp?

2) I also have a starting clamp, but I don't know which position should I put. Would you please tell me? I just want to know another way to setup the first two main strings.

Now, I could see why swivel clamp for the last 2 mains, because the gap between the two are quite far away and fly clamps would be able to secure them. Also, I understood why it's so important to setup the first cross. Thanks very much. But it comes to my 3) question,

3) what if I don't have a swivel clamp, how to setup the last 2 mains with flying clamp and what about the first cross?:confused:

Please advice,

Thanks again for teaching me this technic. It's very useful.:)

[DinkAlot]

Is it that difficult to follow? Perhaps you can draw some diagrams from the description and I will confirm if they reflect what I wrote.

Yes, too hard for me to follow. I was hoping you'd draw the diagrams. :p

[taneepak]

taneepak,

Thanks for the info. Now, I know how to use the swivel clamp. :D I have few questions to ask you::o

1) "You now have two flying clamps at the head clamping 3 strings. Swing the machine around and tension the string that comes out from TL1, making sure that you loosen the swivel clamp slightly as you reach the set tension. Re-clamp the swivel clamp" - What does this mean? Why I need to lossen the swivel clamp a bit? Will it loss some tension if I lossen the swivel clamp?

2) I also have a starting clamp, but I don't know which position should I put. Would you please tell me? I just want to know another way to setup the first two main strings.

Now, I could see why swivel clamp for the last 2 mains, because the gap between the two are quite far away and fly clamps would be able to secure them. Also, I understood why it's so important to setup the first cross. Thanks very much. But it comes to my 3) question,

3) what if I don't have a swivel clamp, how to setup the last 2 mains with flying clamp and what about the first cross?:confused:

Please advice,

Thanks again for teaching me this technic. It's very useful.:)


Answers :
(1) This is necessary to ensure that any less than perfect clamping of the swivel clamp is being corrected. As you pull the string out from TL1 but just before you reach the preset tension, you have to let the swivel clamp loose so that any slack will be corrected by this pull. Don't loosen the swivel clamp too soon as you pull and tension; it would be perfect if you loosen it just before you reach the preset tension. This will ensure that the middle 2 strings will be tighter. You can try to skip this and see if it is as good as the above method.
(2) You put the starting clamp on the outside of TL1, with the string going up to HL1, HR1, down to TR1. Put some padding-leather or grip-around the throat to prevent the starting clamp from scratching the throat/shaft. You then pull and tension the string coming out from TR1. Clamp with the swivel clamp on the inner side of TR1.
You then take the string into TR2, up into HR2. Pull and tension the string coming out from HR2. Now use one flying clamp to clamp the two tensioned strings on the right near the inner edge of the frame. Use a second flying clamp to clamp the tensioned 2 middle strings next to the first flying clamp. You now have two flying clamps clamping the 3 tensioned strings, with just the middle of these 3 strings being clamped by both flying clamps. This is very important.
Swing the machine around. Loosen th swivel clamp from TR1 and move it over to TL1 and clamp it. Take off the staring clamp. Pull and tension string from TL1, and as before, loosen the swivel clamp just before you reach the preset tension. You then reclamp the swivel clamp on the same TL1. Take the string from TL1 over into TL2, up into HL2, and then pull and tension the string coming out from HL2. If you have another 2 flying clamps, you clamp them the exact way you just did on the right side with the first pair of flying clamps. If you have only one more flying clamp, then you use the swivel clamp to clamp the just tensioned string near the inner edge of the frame, and the remaining flying clamp with one claw on the same string as the swivel clamp and with the other claw clamping on to the middle left string.
(3) If you don't have a swivel clamp, you just have to make do with what you have. The last 2 mains, you will have to pull 2 strings with one pull. For this you will have to compensate with at least 10% more tension, because of the 2-string pull and the less than ideal clamping of the last two main strings.
For the crosses, a starting knot at the top is mandatory. With only flying clamps, you will have to pull and tension the first 2 cross strings. and then use two flying clamps on the two tensioned cross strings. You may have to add 5-10% more tension for these two strings. From the third cross string onwards you can string/tension normally, but use the two flying clamps on 3 tensioned strings next to each other. Using two flying clamps on two tensioned strings is not as good as on three tensioned strings.
I hope all these make sense.

[FAST!]

Answers :
(1) This is necessary to ensure that any less than perfect clamping of the swivel clamp is being corrected. As you pull the string out from TL1 but just before you reach the preset tension, you have to let the swivel clamp loose so that any slack will be corrected by this pull. Don't loosen the swivel clamp too soon as you pull and tension; it would be perfect if you loosen it just before you reach the preset tension. This will ensure that the middle 2 strings will be tighter. You can try to skip this and see if it is as good as the above method.
(2) You put the starting clamp on the outside of TL1, with the string going up to HL1, HR1, down to TR1. Put some padding-leather or grip-around the throat to prevent the starting clamp from scratching the throat/shaft. You then pull and tension the string coming out from TR1. Clamp with the swivel clamp on the inner side of TR1.
You then take the string into TR2, up into HR2. Pull and tension the string coming out from HR2. Now use one flying clamp to clamp the two tensioned strings on the right near the inner edge of the frame. Use a second flying clamp to clamp the tensioned 2 middle strings next to the first flying clamp. You now have two flying clamps clamping the 3 tensioned strings, with just the middle of these 3 strings being clamped by both flying clamps. This is very important.
Swing the machine around. Loosen th swivel clamp from TR1 and move it over to TL1 and clamp it. Take off the staring clamp. Pull and tension string from TL1, and as before, loosen the swivel clamp just before you reach the preset tension. You then reclamp the swivel clamp on the same TL1. Take the string from TL1 over into TL2, up into HL2, and then pull and tension the string coming out from HL2. If you have another 2 flying clamps, you clamp them the exact way you just did on the right side with the first pair of flying clamps. If you have only one more flying clamp, then you use the swivel clamp to clamp the just tensioned string near the inner edge of the frame, and the remaining flying clamp with one claw on the same string as the swivel clamp and with the other claw clamping on to the middle left string.
(3) If you don't have a swivel clamp, you just have to make do with what you have. The last 2 mains, you will have to pull 2 strings with one pull. For this you will have to compensate with at least 10% more tension, because of the 2-string pull and the less than ideal clamping of the last two main strings.
For the crosses, a starting knot at the top is mandatory. With only flying clamps, you will have to pull and tension the first 2 cross strings. and then use two flying clamps on the two tensioned cross strings. You may have to add 5-10% more tension for these two strings. From the third cross string onwards you can string/tension normally, but use the two flying clamps on 3 tensioned strings next to each other. Using two flying clamps on two tensioned strings is not as good as on three tensioned strings.
I hope all these make sense.

Thank you very much for your detailed answers.:)

[Pete LSD]

Does it hold tension as good as Babolat & Prince swivel clamps? The Babolat swivel clamps don't bent when the tensioner releases tension. Can someone post a high-resolution picture of the EASY-3 swivel clamp? Thanks in advance!

[taneepak]

Does it hold tension as good as Babolat & Prince swivel clamps? The Babolat swivel clamps don't bent when the tensioner releases tension. Can someone post a high-resolution picture of the EASY-3 swivel clamp? Thanks in advance!

If you position and tighten the Eagnas-3 swivel clamp well it will not move one bit. However, over-tightening of the swivel clamp base or body, which is not necessary for a firm clamping action, can wear out the washers that are inside the clamp base. Replacement, especially the one special washer with ridges, can be troublesome. The other smooth washers can be bought at any hardware stores.

[Pete LSD]

Oh, let me clarify further. I don't mean the base moving or loose. I mean the clamp's rod that inserts into the base. On cheaper machines, the clamp tilts once the tensionser releases the tension; hence, a bit of tension is lost.


If you position and tighten the Eagnas-3 swivel clamp well it will not move one bit. However, over-tightening of the swivel clamp base or body, which is not necessary for a firm clamping action, can wear out the washers that are inside the clamp base. Replacement, especially the one special washer with ridges, can be troublesome. The other smooth washers can be bought at any hardware stores.

[taneepak]

Oh, let me clarify further. I don't mean the base moving or loose. I mean the clamp's rod that inserts into the base. On cheaper machines, the clamp tilts once the tensionser releases the tension; hence, a bit of tension is lost.

That is what I mean. If you position the whole clamp both the swivel string clamp and its base correctly and then tighten the clamp base firmly but not overly too tight, the swivel clamp that grips the string will not move sideways or backwards when you release the tensioner.