Question about Pre-stringing a racquet

[FAST!]

I try to get a picture in my mind of how to pre-stringing a racquet.

I understand that pre-stringing means completely stringing the racquet before tensioning. You can pre-string away from the machine. Getting string through holes that already have string threaded through them is easier if the string isn't tensioned.

But after I finished the pre-string to my racquet, where do I start to tensioning the string? I was thinking to left some distance of string between LT1 and LT2, also some for between RT1 and RT2, so that I can tensioning from the first two center mains. Is it correct? :confused:

I probably can't completely pre-stringing all the holes because I left some distance of the strings (for above reason), but it's okay, because it will eventually let me take care the least few holes after I tensioned the rest.

I'm sorry that if I repeated the question in this thread, but I can't find the similar question about it, it seems everyone is very familiar with the pre-strining process, so they dont' bother to ask for detail. I will be appreciate if everyone can make this clear to me or even with drawing diagram or picture taken will be great.

Thanks in advance.:)

[DinkAlot]

Some answers! :D

Yes, you can pre-string away from the machine. In fact, that's what I do exclusively. I pre-string rackets when I'm waiting for a court. I save so much time. :)

I start by tensioning in the middle main strings. But to do this, we need extra string to start. I found a near perfect way to measure this. When I pre-string the first two mains, on one main, instead of looping through the grommet, I stretch the string and loop around the handle of the racket. So the string goes along the full side of the handle to the end of the handle cap and back up, then finally through the grommet. Once I start to string, I pull the loop string in half so I have enough string to pull the left and right sides of the main.

Does that make sense? :p

If not, I will get some pictures. It's actually quite easy.

You can pre-string the whole racket and will have string left because of the above technique.

I'm thinking about doing a complete FAQ on stringing a later on and would incorporate all the expert strings' advice on BC. I think it would be pretty good. :D

[FAST!]

Some answers! :D

Yes, you can pre-string away from the machine. In fact, that's what I do exclusively. I pre-string rackets when I'm waiting for a court. I save so much time. :)

I start by tensioning in the middle main strings. But to do this, we need extra string to start. I found a near perfect way to measure this. When I pre-string the first two mains, on one main, instead of looping through the grommet, I stretch the string and loop around the handle of the racket. So the string goes along the full side of the handle to the end of the handle cap and back up, then finally through the grommet. Once I start to string, I pull the loop string in half so I have enough string to pull the left and right sides of the main.

Does that make sense? :p

If not, I will get some pictures. It's actually quite easy.

You can pre-string the whole racket and will have string left because of the above technique.

I'm thinking about doing a complete FAQ on stringing a later on and would incorporate all the expert strings' advice on BC. I think it would be pretty good. :D

I would be appreciated if you can take some pictures. Does this technique apply to a 10m string or just 200 reel string? (I'm confused).

Thanks alot.:)

[DinkAlot]

I would be appreciated if you can take some pictures. Does this technique apply to a 10m string or just 200 reel string? (I'm confused).

Thanks alot.:)

Works with both, easier with a pack. I'll take some pictures when I bust a string...won't be for at least another week. My shoulder still hurts. Need to rest for at least another 5 days. :crying:

[DinkAlot]

Works with both, easier with a pack.

Ooops, update, actually it's the same, with a reel, just measure out the appropriate length of string you need. :) With the pack you just go...and this assumes doing a 2-knot; if 4-knot, I have to think about it and get back to you. :p

[FAST!]

Works with both, easier with a pack. I'll take some pictures when I bust a string...won't be for at least another week. My shoulder still hurts. Need to rest for at least another 5 days. :crying:

Thanks very much for your help. :)

How many days you play per week?

[FAST!]

Ooops, update, actually it's the same, with a reel, just measure out the appropriate length of string you need. :) With the pack you just go...and this assumes doing a 2-knot; if 4-knot, I have to think about it and get back to you. :p

Thanks. I heard from ppl saying there is no way to pre-string with 4 knots..

[DinkAlot]

Thanks. I heard from ppl saying there is no way to pre-string with 4 knots..

Sure there is, after you pre-string, you just have to make two cuts on the string as well as leave a bit more string. It's hard to explain. I will write something up once I get some time. :)

[FAST!]

Sure there is, after you pre-string, you just have to make two cuts on the string as well as leave a bit more string. It's hard to explain. I will write something up once I get some time. :)

Thank you very much. If you can included with pics, that will be great! :)

[taneepak]

With 2-pc pre-stringing using a 10m packet of string, a starting clamp will come in useful as a jumper, in case your strings cannot reach the tensioner/gripper.

[FAST!]

With 2-pc pre-stringing using a 10m packet of string, a starting clamp will come in useful as a jumper, in case your strings cannot reach the tensioner/gripper.

For 2-pc pre-stringing method, I know it's necessary to use the starting clamp to do the mains, but is it really necessary for the cross? I thought I can tied a knots in the bottom cross, then start pre-stringing.... Is it effective?:confused:

[malayali]

For me personally, pre-stringing the racket seems to save a lot time & effort while stringing the racket. I could actually be watching TV & pre-stringing the racket & then the (tensioning)stringing itself would not take more than 20-25 minutes;;;;

[FAST!]

For me personally, pre-stringing the racket seems to save a lot time & effort while stringing the racket. I could actually be watching TV & pre-stringing the racket & then the (tensioning)stringing itself would not take more than 20-25 minutes;;;;

i agreed with you. That's why I try to find out the most effective way to pre-stringing my racquet. :)

[DinkAlot]

For 2-pc pre-stringing method, I know it's necessary to use the starting clamp to do the mains, but is it really necessary for the cross? I thought I can tied a knots in the bottom cross, then start pre-stringing.... Is it effective?:confused:

Yes, you can do that and that's what I do but some here start stringing the crosses from the top. I've never tried that before.

[FAST!]

Yes, you can do that and that's what I do but some here start stringing the crosses from the top. I've never tried that before.

I see. Isn't some posts not recommand ot string the cross from the top? I forgot the reason why though...

[DinkAlot]

I see. Isn't some posts not recommand ot string the cross from the top? I forgot the reason why though...

I thought it was the other way around, promoting stringing from the top. :confused:

I hope I'm wrong though, I prefer stringing from the bottom. :p

[FAST!]

I thought it was the other way around, promoting stringing from the top. :confused:

I hope I'm wrong though, I prefer stringing from the bottom. :p

Also the stringing guide say to string the cross from bottom to top. I know the stringing guide isn't perfect. But I don't see the real benefit to string cross from top. Any thought?

[malayali]

The bottom of the frame (close to the shaft) is more 'strong'/sturdy than the top, so it is my argument that if you start tensioning from the top instead of the bottom the chances of any deformation of the shape can or could be minimized.....

[FAST!]

The bottom of the frame (close to the shaft) is more 'strong'/sturdy than the top, so it is my argument that if you start tensioning from the top instead of the bottom the chances of any deformation of the shape can or could be minimized.....

Excellent! Thanks for your explanation. :) How come I never think of it before?:rolleyes:

[DinkAlot]

Excellent! Thanks for your explanation. :) How come I never think of it before?:rolleyes:

That's what I thought but some have their logic why it's not the case. Oh well. :p P.S. I have those pre-string pictures ready, ULing now...

[FAST!]

That's what I thought but some have their logic why it's not the case. Oh well. :p P.S. I have those pre-string pictures ready, ULing now...

Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great!! i'm waiting for it for a long long time. I thought you will post it next week. Thanks for your prompt action. :)

[DinkAlot]

Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great!! i'm waiting for it for a long long time. I thought you will post it next week. Thanks for your prompt action. :)

OK, I hope pictures are worth a thousand words. :p :D

http://img451.imageshack.us/img451/2235/fast14ip.jpg

http://img451.imageshack.us/img451/8629/fast21zt.jpg

[FAST!]

S4MadMan,

You are da MAN!!!!!! Thanks so much for your pictures. Yes, it's the best way to explain how to pre-string with 2 knots.

I guess I could figure out how to pre-string with 4 knots, but if you happens to take some pics of it (I know that you will have a FAQ soon that you mentioned). Would you mind also post it here?

Thanks again!!!!!

[DinkAlot]

Would you mind also post it here?

Yep, will post here of course. :D

[FAST!]

S4MadMan,
Quick question, do you pre-string the racquet on the stringing machine or without it? I think it's hard to do the cross (if without the stringing machine), because of that "extra loop", right?

[LazyBuddy]

S4MadMan,

You are da MAN!!!!!! Thanks so much for your pictures. Yes, it's the best way to explain how to pre-string with 2 knots.

I guess I could figure out how to pre-string with 4 knots, but if you happens to take some pics of it (I know that you will have a FAQ soon that you mentioned). Would you mind also post it here?

Thanks again!!!!!

No doubt MadMan is the man regarding to his previous post with excellent pics!

I assume the 4 knots will follow similar process as for 2 knots. The main is almost the same, as leave extra "loop" at the starting throat area. 1 thing to make sure is, more sure leave a bit extra on both ends, as u need to tie knots.

For the cross (if start at the middle), follow the same philosophy, as leave some extra loop at the middle gromment to start with. At both ends, leave a bit extra string, to tie knots.

One thing to metion is, at the beginning, u might find pre-string is quite difficult, as u might mis-measure the length, and "waving" cross with not-yet-tensioned main could be weired if u r not used to it. ;)

[FAST!]

No doubt MadMan is the man regarding to his previous post with excellent pics!

I assume the 4 knots will follow similar process as for 2 knots. The main is almost the same, as leave extra "loop" at the starting throat area. 1 thing to make sure is, more sure leave a bit extra on both ends, as u need to tie knots.

For the cross (if start at the middle), follow the same philosophy, as leave some extra loop at the middle gromment to start with. At both ends, leave a bit extra string, to tie knots.

One thing to metion is, at the beginning, u might find pre-string is quite difficult, as u might mis-measure the length, and "waving" cross with not-yet-tensioned main could be weired if u r not used to it. ;)

Thanks for your advise. I understood about the MAIN, what if I tied a knot at the bottom cross, is that okay that I could start at the bottom cross instead of middle cross?

[DinkAlot]

S4MadMan,
Quick question, do you pre-string the racquet on the stringing machine or without it? I think it's hard to do the cross (if without the stringing machine), because of that "extra loop", right?

FAST, I guess you still don't understand fully. :p

I always pre-sting away from the machine, most of the time when I'm waiting for a court or watching USC (Football) win nail biters on Saturdays. :p :D :D :D

The extra loop is very easy, in the picture below you see how the string is looped around the end of the handle? That's all you do when you are pre-stringing.

I don't understand why the cross strings would be difficult.

http://img451.imageshack.us/img451/2235/fast14ip.jpg

[DinkAlot]

Let me clarify again, when you pre-string, what do you do? You just do it, pre-string the racket, right? Now imagine pre-stringing the same way except at one of the first mains, pull the string and loop around the end of the handle. That's it. :D

Nothing else changes.

[FAST!]

Let me clarify again, when you pre-string, what do you do? You just do it, pre-string the racket, right? Now imagine pre-stringing the same way except at one of the first mains, pull the string and loop around the end of the handle. That's it. :D

Nothing else changes.

S4MadMan,

Thanks for your explanation. I understood how to create that Loop in the main. What I tried to say is I think it's kinda difficult when "waving" the cross because of that "extra" loop, it's kinda loose, so make the "waving" little hard when it's comes to the middle main strings.. of course, you can overcome it when you have more exprience.

[DinkAlot]

S4MadMan,

Thanks for your explanation. I understood how to create that Loop in the main. What I tried to say is I think it's kinda difficult when "waving" the cross because of that "extra" loop, it's kinda loose, so make the "waving" little hard when it's comes to the middle main strings.. of course, you can overcome it when you have more exprience.

No, the loop is not loose, you can tighten it as much as you want. It's no looser than any of the other main strings, just depends how tight you want to pull it. Does this make sense now? :D

[FAST!]

No, the loop is not loose, you can tighten it as much as you want. It's no looser than any of the other main strings, just depends how tight you want to pull it. Does this make sense now? :D

Oh!!!!!!:eek: I see now. I must be blind before.:o I see your loop it around the racquet handle, that's why it's not loose.:p

GOT IT, master madman!!!!:)

[DinkAlot]

Good job Grasshoppa, now you are onto the way of becoming a BC Approved Racket Stringer. :p :D

[FAST!]

Good job Grasshoppa, now you are onto the way of becoming a BC Approved Racket Stringer. :p :D

Thanks again for your help. :)

[DinkAlot]

Thanks again for your help. :)

My pleasure. Any time. :D

[taneepak]

A slightly tensioned main string is a prerequisite to pre-stringing the cross string. You can pre-string on the machine or away from the machine while watching TV. It is easier to pre-string 1-pc than 2-pcs. With 2-pc, a starting clamp, used as a jumper and not as a starting clamp, is your insurance.
With 2-pc pre-stringing, you need to cut the packet of string in two, with one pc measuring 18' 4" for the mains and the other pc for the crosses.
Weave the mains from the middle, leaving two 3" loops on each side of the shaft. Use a single rubber (elastic) band to tie the two middle strings of the two loops onto the shaft 3" below the throat. Then weave the remaining main strings on each side. Tie a loose tie-off knot on both sides of the bottom grommets #8. Then tighten the mains by pulling and tensioning with your hands from one side of the mains, starting from the two last side main strings. Be careful not to over-tighten the tie-off knot at grommet #8 with too much tension at the beginning. When you come to the middle main string of the side you are pulling, the original 3" loop on one side will become 8", which is long enough to reach your tensioner. If not, the starting clamp is your life-saver. You now have one 8" loop on one side of the main and another 3" loop on the other side (still to be pulled). Use another couple of rubber bands to pull the 8" loop towards the handle butt and anchor it with another rubber band to secure it.
You then go to do the same thing to the other side of the main. You will then end up with two 8" loops in the middle at the shaft. Pull the first rubber band, which was 3" away from the throat, down to the end of the two 8" loop. Untie the rubber bands holding the first 8" loop, re-insert them onto the two 8" loops, and then pull and anchor them to the butt. You now have a reasonably taut mains, which will make weaving the cross easier.
Take the remaining pc of string for the cross and insert into one of the bottom grommet #6 and tie a loose tie-off knot. Take the other end of the string and weave the cross starting from the bottom grommet #9. When you reach the top part leave some slack on the outside of the frame at places where the mains and crosses share the same grommet, to allow you to manage kink-free control when you start the real tensioning part.
Remember, with pre-stringing everytime you tension any mains that shares a grommet with a cross, tension the main string half-way first and then pull the cross string in the same grommet to see if it moves in and out of the grommet easily, before you reach the preset tension. If it doesn't move freely, you should pull the cross to a position where it can move through the grommet effortlessly.
After you have weaved the cross, you can pull back the slack towards the top so that you have a longer end string to tie the starting knot and enough length to reach your tensioner. If not, then the starting clamp can get you out of a jam.

[FAST!]

A slightly tensioned main string is a prerequisite to pre-stringing the cross string. You can pre-string on the machine or away from the machine while watching TV. It is easier to pre-string 1-pc than 2-pcs. With 2-pc, a starting clamp, used as a jumper and not as a starting clamp, is your insurance.
With 2-pc pre-stringing, you need to cut the packet of string in two, with one pc measuring 18' 4" for the mains and the other pc for the crosses.
Weave the mains from the middle, leaving two 3" loops on each side of the shaft. Use a single rubber (elastic) band to tie the two middle strings of the two loops onto the shaft 3" below the throat. Then weave the remaining main strings on each side. Tie a loose tie-off knot on both sides of the bottom grommets #8. Then tighten the mains by pulling and tensioning with your hands from one side of the mains, starting from the two last side main strings. Be careful not to over-tighten the tie-off knot at grommet #8 with too much tension at the beginning. When you come to the middle main string of the side you are pulling, the original 3" loop on one side will become 8", which is long enough to reach your tensioner. If not, the starting clamp is your life-saver. You now have one 8" loop on one side of the main and another 3" loop on the other side (still to be pulled). Use another couple of rubber bands to pull the 8" loop towards the handle butt and anchor it with another rubber band to secure it.
You then go to do the same thing to the other side of the main. You will then end up with two 8" loops in the middle at the shaft. Pull the first rubber band, which was 3" away from the throat, down to the end of the two 8" loop. Untie the rubber bands holding the first 8" loop, re-insert them onto the two 8" loops, and then pull and anchor them to the butt. You now have a reasonably taut mains, which will make weaving the cross easier.
Take the remaining pc of string for the cross and insert into one of the bottom grommet #6 and tie a loose tie-off knot. Take the other end of the string and weave the cross starting from the bottom grommet #9. When you reach the top part leave some slack on the outside of the frame at places where the mains and crosses share the same grommet, to allow you to manage kink-free control when you start the real tensioning part.
Remember, with pre-stringing everytime you tension any mains that shares a grommet with a cross, tension the main string half-way first and then pull the cross string in the same grommet to see if it moves in and out of the grommet easily, before you reach the preset tension. If it doesn't move freely, you should pull the cross to a position where it can move through the grommet effortlessly.
After you have weaved the cross, you can pull back the slack towards the top so that you have a longer end string to tie the starting knot and enough length to reach your tensioner. If not, then the starting clamp can get you out of a jam.

taneepak,

Thanks for your detailed explanation. I really appreciated it.

Thanks again.:)

[fishmilk]

and don't forget to do the knots again or all your tensioning work will be wasted ;)

[elwin81]

This is really a good guide for pre-stringing.
Many thanks to Dink for the pics and the details.
May I know where is your FAQ? I try to search but seems can't find it.

[Neil Nicholls]

Remember, with pre-stringing everytime you tension any mains that shares a grommet with a cross, tension the main string half-way first and then pull the cross string in the same grommet to see if it moves in and out of the grommet easily, before you reach the preset tension. If it doesn't move freely, you should pull the cross to a position where it can move through the grommet effortlessly.
Regardless of how you pre-string, this bit is of particular importance.