stringing pattern for NS 8000

[eiffel]

Does anyone have the stringing pattern for the NS 8000 ? All of the rackets I have done in the past are 22 mains and about 23 crosses. I would just skip the 11th hole for both sides of the mains before tie offs (11 T).

I looked at the NS 8000 and noticed there are single string grommets near the corner frame top so I assume there are no shared holes ?

I would appreciate it if someone could post which holes for skipping on the Head and Tail (Tennis terminology for Head = top half of frame, Tail = bottom half of frame).

Lastly, is it recommended to use to increase the tension 2 lbs extra for the crosses ? I don't know why some people like putting on extra tension on the crosses ? I usually just string the entire racket with equal tension.

Thanks.

[Sudda]

i have the large version of the ns7k/8k stringing pattern from yonex but i don't know how to post it. I got it from this site a few months ago. pm me your e-mail and i can send it to you if you want.
Everybody uses a different method of stringing but people add an extra 2lb on the crosses because the frame gets squeezed inwards while doing the mains. Stringing tighter crosses squeezes the frame back into it's original form but all the strings essentially end up at about the same tension. However, if you have really good 6pnt frame supports and the frame doesn't move at all, stringing at equal tension should not cause any problems.

[cooler]

Does anyone have the stringing pattern for the NS 8000 ? All of the rackets I have done in the past are 22 mains and about 23 crosses. I would just skip the 11th hole for both sides of the mains before tie offs (11 T).

I looked at the NS 8000 and noticed there are single string grommets near the corner frame top so I assume there are no shared holes ?

I would appreciate it if someone could post which holes for skipping on the Head and Tail (Tennis terminology for Head = top half of frame, Tail = bottom half of frame).

Lastly, is it recommended to use to increase the tension 2 lbs extra for the crosses ? I don't know why some people like putting on extra tension on the crosses ? I usually just string the entire racket with equal tension.

Thanks.

http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27250&page=2&pp=10&highlight=stringing+pattern

hope ur isnt a fake because all new ns8000 should come with a bag and stringing diagram for the real ones :p

[DinkAlot]

Does anyone have the stringing pattern for the NS 8000

Ask and you shall receive:

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4453/yonexstringpattern3dp.gif

[eiffel]

thanks for the link, interesting thread on Lee's stringing technique. I don't think I will use her technique. Its just better to follow manufacturer's advice.


http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27250&page=2&pp=10&highlight=stringing+pattern

hope ur isnt a fake because all new ns8000 should come with a bag and stringing diagram for the real ones :p

[eiffel]

thanks for your offer.

regarding the extra 2 lbs. I really don't like adding it. I only have a two point frame support, but I pre-stretch the frame a bit on the mount so that when I start doing the crosses it gives me the same results as adding an extra 2 lbs.



i have the large version of the ns7k/8k stringing pattern from yonex but i don't know how to post it. I got it from this site a few months ago. pm me your e-mail and i can send it to you if you want.
Everybody uses a different method of stringing but people add an extra 2lb on the crosses because the frame gets squeezed inwards while doing the mains. Stringing tighter crosses squeezes the frame back into it's original form but all the strings essentially end up at about the same tension. However, if you have really good 6pnt frame supports and the frame doesn't move at all, stringing at equal tension should not cause any problems.

[DinkAlot]

regarding the extra 2 lbs. I really don't like adding it. I only have a two point frame support, but I pre-stretch the frame a bit on the mount so that when I start doing the crosses it gives me the same results as adding an extra 2 lbs.

You really should add the extra 2lbs on the crosses. If you string with the same tension all around, the racket will be too round, out of shape. By doing the 2lbs. increase on the cross strings, you will be getting the racket very close to its original shape.

[bluejeff]

You need to considered adding the additional pounds if you have the 2 point machine. However, if the tension is not high, the effect might not be obvious.

It is not necessary to be 2 pounds always. Sometimes it might need only 1 pound depending on the situations :)

[DinkAlot]

It is not necessary to be 2 pounds always. Sometimes it might need only 1 pound depending on the situations :)

I noticed sometimes at higher tension, even 3lbs. is necessary. Any thoughts on this BJ?

[cooler]

thanks for your offer.

regarding the extra 2 lbs. I really don't like adding it. I only have a two point frame support, but I pre-stretch the frame a bit on the mount so that when I start doing the crosses it gives me the same results as adding an extra 2 lbs.
had u try measuring racket dimensions before (ie unstrung unanchored) and after being strung? what u did is assumes the final dimension will somehow work out right

[bluejeff]

I noticed sometimes at higher tension, even 3lbs. is necessary. Any thoughts on this BJ?

That's true; like I said, depending on the situations. Normally, the higher you go, the more tension to the cross you will need to add.

[DinkAlot]

had u try measuring racket dimensions before (ie unstrung unanchored) and after being strung? what u did is assumes the final dimension will somehow work out right

No need, I usually have an original unstrung racket there for comparison purposes. Also my 6-point machine, after I finish stringing, I release the four corners first, then the north-south. If the racket comes off the same tightness I put it on, then schweet.:D If it's much tighter or I have to loosen the north-south points, that means the racket is too round and not in the original shape.

I hope that made sense...I'm going to play Bad now, there are people at SGVBC. :D :D :D :D

[cooler]

No need, I usually have an original unstrung racket there for comparison purposes. Also my 6-point machine, after I finish stringing, I release the four corners first, then the north-south. If the racket comes off the same tightness I put it on, then schweet.:D If it's much tighter or I have to loosen the north-south points, that means the racket is too round and not in the original shape.

I hope that made sense...I'm going to play Bad now, there are people at SGVBC. :D :D :D :D

1. your method is qualitative method, not quantitative. Have u heard of qualitative physics :confused: :p

2. no everyone can afford owning >2 similar rackets

3. not every can afford a 6 pointies machine :p

what happen if it isnt schweet after it's done?

[eiffel]

had u try measuring racket dimensions before (ie unstrung unanchored) and after being strung? what u did is assumes the final dimension will somehow work out right

I measure the racket dimension left to right when the racket is unstrung. After stringing a few hundred rackets in the past 10 years I have a good idea how much to pre-stretch the racket frame. When I am finished stringing I measure it again and it is pretty close to its original dimensions (within 1-2 mm). I am not saying that pre-stretching the frame is good but I don't think its any worse than adding an extra 2 lbs.

[DinkAlot]

1. your method is qualitative method, not quantitative. Have u heard of qualitative physics :confused: :p

2. no everyone can afford owning >2 similar rackets

3. not every can afford a 6 pointies machine :p

what happen if it isnt schweet after it's done?

LOL! Pot calling the kettle here. Cooler, you are waaaay too overkill for most. I'm content with my stringing and that's all that matters.

[cooler]

LOL! Pot calling the kettle here. Cooler, you are waaaay too overkill for most. I'm content with my stringing and that's all that matters.
i was just curious.
i dun dink around stringing as u can see ;)

[taneepak]

thanks for your offer.

regarding the extra 2 lbs. I really don't like adding it. I only have a two point frame support, but I pre-stretch the frame a bit on the mount so that when I start doing the crosses it gives me the same results as adding an extra 2 lbs.

Pre-stretching the racquet frame on the mount is a no no. As a matter of fact any pre-stretching of the frame is bad. The objective is to mount a frame on neutral with no pre-stretching of the frame at all. If you have a 2-point machine the two hold-down clamps will serve as your anchor/brace. You should then string the mains from the middle, alternately, one string at a time. This is important as your frame will then be properly loaded. After finishing the mains, you then add 10% higher tension for the crosses. However, some frames will distort a bit on the top with very high cross tensions. Stringing the crosses from the middle can minimize this. If you have 4-point or 6-point machines then this 10% higher cross tension should not be a problem.
Whatever you do, and you can do a lot of strange things in stringing, there is one thing you should never do, and that is to pre-stretch a frame.

[DinkAlot]

i was just curious.
i dun dink around stringing as u can see ;)

Oh, OK, I thought you were getting crazy on me. :p

[bluejeff]

Oh, OK, I thought you were getting crazy on me. :p

You need to get used to that :p
cooler is always like that :D

[DinkAlot]

You need to get used to that :p
cooler is always like that :D

"Gee that's greaaaaaaat." :p

[eiffel]

Pre-stretching the racquet frame on the mount is a no no. As a matter of fact any pre-stretching of the frame is bad. The objective is to mount a frame on neutral with no pre-stretching of the frame at all. If you have a 2-point machine the two hold-down clamps will serve as your anchor/brace. You should then string the mains from the middle, alternately, one string at a time. This is important as your frame will then be properly loaded. After finishing the mains, you then add 10% higher tension for the crosses. However, some frames will distort a bit on the top with very high cross tensions. Stringing the crosses from the middle can minimize this. If you have 4-point or 6-point machines then this 10% higher cross tension should not be a problem.
Whatever you do, and you can do a lot of strange things in stringing, there is one thing you should never do, and that is to pre-stretch a frame.

I agree that pre-stretching a frame is probably not a good thing to do, but I have seen quite a number of other individuals who do the same thing (which is where I learned this technique from). My question/comment is that I have never seen anyone break a racket from doing this or compromise the integrity of the racket frame. So after more than 10 years of racket stringing plus my observations from other people doing the same thing with no broken rackets either I don't really see why its a 'real no no'. In my opinion its just as bad as adding 2 extra lbs to the crosses. At least, this method doesn't have distortion at the top or bottom of the frame.

[Quasimodo]

My personal qualm about stretching the frame is that, IMHO, it makes it difficult for you to turn out consistent repeatable jobs. Because when you stretch the frame, you've to do it by touch and sight. (I'm not aware of a stringing machine that has a pressure gauge on its mounting arms.) While when you overtension the crosses by 10% or 2 lbs., you do it using a device that's built for that very purpose (i.e., tension a string up to a specific setting). The latter method has to be more consistent, I'd imagine.

[eiffel]

My personal qualm about stretching the frame is that, IMHO, it makes it difficult for you to turn out consistent repeatable jobs. Because when you stretch the frame, you've to do it by touch and sight. (I'm not aware of a stringing machine that has a pressure gauge on its mounting arms.) While when you overtension the crosses by 10% or 2 lbs., you do it using a device that's built for that very purpose (i.e., tension a string up to a specific setting). The latter method has to be more consistent, I'd imagine.

I see your points and agree that its going to be more consistent.

However, I still don't think from a physics stand point that its not a good idea adding an extra 2 lbs (10 percent more tension). I don't have any scientific backing or anything like that but I am guessing that it must have some effect on performance and possibly maybe compromising the frame.

I guess the logic I am using is a bicycle wheel. The rim and its spokes, you want it nice and evenly tight. If its not then its going to wobble. I know bicycle wheels and badminton frames are not the same thing, but food for thought.

[LazyBuddy]

I noticed sometimes at higher tension, even 3lbs. is necessary. Any thoughts on this BJ?

I think the 10% rule is more accurate than 2lbs. :rolleyes:

[Quasimodo]

I see your points and agree that its going to be more consistent.

However, I still don't think from a physics stand point that its not a good idea adding an extra 2 lbs (10 percent more tension). I don't have any scientific backing or anything like that but I am guessing that it must have some effect on performance and possibly maybe compromising the frame.

I guess the logic I am using is a bicycle wheel. The rim and its spokes, you want it nice and evenly tight. If its not then its going to wobble. I know bicycle wheels and badminton frames are not the same thing, but food for thought.

You may want to read Kwun's explanation on the 2 lbs. overtension on the cross string in this thread:

http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9516

Mind you, the 2 lbs. or 10% overtension is a recommendation not a requirement. So, it's up to each individual player whether or not to use it. I personally use it for myself and my customers, unless they specifically tell me not to, for a very simple reason: when I don't, it's harder to loosen the head and throat supports. To me that signifies that the racquet's a little round (i.e., more outward pressure at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions). For some reason, I'm not comfortable with that especially at high tension settings. Using your bike wheel analogy, the cross string overtension recco. results in a more even tension on the frame all the way around, IMHO.

That said, the pro stringers at the WC over the summer didn't add the 10% for cross strings and they worked with 34 lbs. settings for most of the time. Or, at least it seemed so to me. Although, there may be another reason for them not to use the 10% recco: 10% over 34 lbs. is about 37 lbs. I'm not sure badminton strings can take that much tension without snapping. A couple of people here have done some experiments and found that some Yonex strings snap at about high 30s lbs., IIRC.

FWIW, YMMV.

[taneepak]

Most racquets are made of carbon graphite. Carbon graphite have very high modulus (very stiff) on the face side to prevent face distortion of the frame at high impact. Very stiff also means very fragile. However on the frame edge-wise, a little flex is built in for stringing distortion. This comes at a cost of lower quality, because, although flex means more safety it also means less repulsion. Some very high quality racquets may come with less frame edge-wise flex, and you wouldn't want to play around with stretching the frame too much.

[lindanfan]

my stringer who i have been using 4 a while now has strung differently to the 1st 1 he did 4 me :( . if im right the factory strung racket shud be 21 down, 22 across. that is what the first racket he strung 4 me is and that is also tied off in the right place. but the 2nd racket he did 4 me is 22 down, 22 across:eek: it is also tied off in different places. will this affect the racket at all eg puttin too much strain on the head which could cause breakage? both rackets are strung at about 23lbs

[malayali]

was the second one 1 piece or 2 piece ??? In other words , how many knots ???

[lindanfan]

was the second one 1 piece or 2 piece ??? In other words , how many knots ???
4 knots, so its a 2 piece

[malayali]

For a 4 knot pattern & use 22 crosses for NS8000, the knots will have to be at unusual places. According to cooler, a little bit unconventional stringing patterns are 'OKAY' but are they recommended by Yonex, probably "NO"; Will it cause the racket head to break; it is very very difficult to prove that......


4 knots, so its a 2 piece

[lindanfan]

For a 4 knot pattern & use 22 crosses for NS8000, the knots will have to be at unusual places. According to cooler, a little bit unconventional stringing patterns are 'OKAY' but are they recommended by Yonex, probably "NO"; Will it cause the racket head to break; it is very very difficult to prove that......

oh well i have 10 packs of bg85 coming tommorrow so i will be getting all my rackets restrung anyway:D thanks for your help

[SmashBGW]

Hello . .are my researches right that stringing ns8000 4 knots have 22 mains and 21 crosses???And what tension wolud be better for my racket?22x24 or 23x25???And if ever,can you give me a 2 knot stringing pattern . .thanks:):):)