Drop weight - set tension vs. actual tension

[jsunsun]

I'm a beginner stringer, strung ~6 racquets so far with a drop weight machine with 4 fly clamps. I usually play with 25x27lbs. However, I find I need to set my machine to 29x32lbs to achieve the feel of a professionally strung 25x27lbs tension. Is this normal?

[silentheart]

1) do a search on the forum.
2) calibrate your machine and make sure it is acurate.
3) leave the weight down for about 15~20 sec before you clamp the string.
4) make sure your fly clamp can handle >25lb. some have problem with thin ti coated string.
5) i often question the big sporting good store's stringer because they don't calibrate their machine for badminton.
6) some shop string 1~2lb higher to counter the tension loss when they use crank or electric machine with break.

good luck

[jsunsun]

Thanks for reply!

1) sorry, I could find anything from search
2) yeah, i should calibrate my machine, but reason why i bought a drop weight is cuz i'm cheap, thus hate to pay for a calibrator...
3) thanks i'll try this, though i'm already starting to regret being cheap and buying a drop weight instead of crank or electric, cuz takes sooo much time to string a racquet!!! though after string 6 racquets, i'm down from 3.5hr to 1.5hr to string one racquet.
4) yeah i think my clamp can handle 25lbs, I have 2 clamps that have adjustable clamping strength (so I've set it tight enough to handle my tensions), and 2 hiqua clamps.
5) my regular stringer is very reputable and strings a lot more badminton than tennis. Though the same tension from him always felt higher than any other stringer I've tried.
6) most shops use fixed clamps right? how much difference in tension loss when comparing fixed to fly clamps? I've tried 2 vs. 4 fly clamps as suggested in this forum, but that didn't seem to make much difference.

[Neil Nicholls]

i'm already starting to regret being cheap and buying a drop weight instead of crank or electric, cuz takes sooo much time to string a racquet!!! though after string 6 racquets, i'm down from 3.5hr to 1.5hr to string one racquet.
the time taken shouldn't all the fault of the drop-weight
(unless it doesn't have a clutch)
I have a drop-weight, and my first stringing attempts took ages.
You need to get used to the process.
I'm usually sub 40 minutes per racquet now (without rushing), and at least 2/3 of that is on the crosses. My weaving is still not so good.

it takes time and practise, but if you stick with it, you should get there.

[Pete LSD]

1) sorry, I could find anything from search

There are a lot of information in the stringing forum but information is everywhere in chunks or separate threads.

2) yeah, i should calibrate my machine, but reason why i bought a drop weight is cuz i'm cheap, thus hate to pay for a calibrator...

You need a digital fisherman scale.

3) thanks i'll try this, though i'm already starting to regret being cheap and buying a drop weight instead of crank or electric, cuz takes sooo much time to string a racquet!!! though after string 6 racquets, i'm down from 3.5hr to 1.5hr to string one racquet.

Drop weight is fine if you allow sufficient time for the string to settle. Stringing a racquet properly requires quite an amount of concentration, time and dedication.

4) yeah i think my clamp can handle 25lbs, I have 2 clamps that have adjustable clamping strength (so I've set it tight enough to handle my tensions), and 2 hiqua clamps.

Which adjustable floating clamps do you have? The ones from Laserfibre are very good. I think you need two more HiQua clamps for the cross.

5) my regular stringer is very reputable and strings a lot more badminton than tennis. Though the same tension from him always felt higher than any other stringer I've tried.

Your regular stringer probably has fixed clamps. For your next purchase, get the stringing machines with fixed clamps.

6) most shops use fixed clamps right? how much difference in tension loss when comparing fixed to fly clamps? I've tried 2 vs. 4 fly clamps as suggested in this forum, but that didn't seem to make much difference.

From what I read on the tennis forums, it really depends on the quality of the floating clamps and fixed clamps. Furthermore, fixed clamps tend to speed up the stringing process.

[Pete LSD]

I find a lot of time is spent on waiting for the string to settle :D. For the main string, it's like 10 to 15 seconds. For the crosses, it's like 15 to 20 seconds. For the cross strings that go through shared grommets, it takes even longer like 20 to 25 seconds. There is so much friction between the main & cross strings & grommet that it's almost impossible to get the most out of the reference tension.

Sorry, I forgot. Do you pre-weave the cross? Or do you do it after finishing the main?


the time taken shouldn't all the fault of the drop-weight
(unless it doesn't have a clutch)
I have a drop-weight, and my first stringing attempts took ages.
You need to get used to the process.
I'm usually sub 40 minutes per racquet now (without rushing), and at least 2/3 of that is on the crosses. My weaving is still not so good.

it takes time and practise, but if you stick with it, you should get there.

[LazyBuddy]

2) calibrate your machine and make sure it is acurate.


The benefit for drop weight is the consistency (unless the weight is badly damaged). The mark on the rod might be a bit off, but once u get the "feeling", u pretty much can get ur own "mark" w/o worrying about calibration.

For crank or electrical ones, u need to calibrate regularly, due to the spring/motor conditions.

[LazyBuddy]

4) yeah i think my clamp can handle 25lbs, I have 2 clamps that have adjustable clamping strength (so I've set it tight enough to handle my tensions), and 2 hiqua clamps.


I highly doubt any flying clamps can handle 30+lb without significant tension lost. You will be surprised how much tension will be lost, even if the string stretching length is just 2-3mm off the mark than it should be. Also, the "knotting" technique is already critical in tension lost. :rolleyes:

[jsunsun]

1) 4) yeah i think my clamp can handle 25lbs, I have 2 clamps that have adjustable clamping strength (so I've set it tight enough to handle my tensions), and 2 hiqua clamps.

Which adjustable floating clamps do you have? The ones from Laserfibre are very good. I think you need two more HiQua clamps for the cross.


I use the badminton fly clamps from silent partner. They can be tighten as much as to actually flatten the strings.

as suggested by the forum, I do have 2 additional hiqua clamps to help with the tension loss from using fly clamps.

[silentheart]

Which fly clamp do you use to clamp cross? When you clamp the cross is the center piece a lot narrower than between the 2 crosses? The reason I am asking this is because you actually pinch cross strings in. When you release the strings, it will lose some tension there. To avoid that, use the clamp that has center piece about the same width as the cross gap. I don't think I can come up any more suggestion.

Have fun!

[LazyBuddy]

I use the badminton fly clamps from silent partner. They can be tighten as much as to actually flatten the strings.


This is the reason, i suggest NOT to use the adjustable flying clamps. If you set it too tight, u will flatten the string, which can cause the damage to the string itself. If you set it too loose, u lose more tension. Therefore, it's harder to be consistent and right to the point of "good enough".

Personally, I am using Yonex flying clamps, which should be no problem if u do up to 25/26 lbs. Heard HQ clamps are just as good. :rolleyes:

[Neil Nicholls]

I find a lot of time is spent on waiting for the string to settle :D. For the main string, it's like 10 to 15 seconds. For the crosses, it's like 15 to 20 seconds. For the cross strings that go through shared grommets, it takes even longer like 20 to 25 seconds. There is so much friction between the main & cross strings & grommet that it's almost impossible to get the most out of the reference tension.

Sorry, I forgot. Do you pre-weave the cross? Or do you do it after finishing the main?
I pre-stretch the string before I start.
Less time waiting for the string to settle.
Everything 2-piece top down nowadays.
1-piece is faster, but I prefer 2-piece with a starting knot at the top.
I don't do any pre-weaving other than weaving 1 ahead as I do the crosses.

[cooler]

there is one advantage of drop weight tho,
u get paid for doing weight training and arms strengthing, hmmph, not fair. :mad:

[jcl49]

there is one advantage of drop weight tho,
u get paid for doing weight training and arms strengthing, hmmph, not fair. :mad:
But Cooler, with electronic machines, you get paid for pressing a few buttons

[LazyBuddy]

But Cooler, with electronic machines, you get paid for pressing a few buttons

The electronic machine is not going to string everything for you. The only advantage is the motor will pull tension with constant force (if you calibrate regularly). This machine is NOT a robot, which has arms and legs to do all the waving. ;)

[cooler]

But Cooler, with electronic machines, you get paid for pressing a few buttons

u r equating pay with minimal work( r u an union worker :confused: :p )
i was equating of getting paid to having a stronger racket arm :D

[silentheart]

Hi Cooler, LB, BlueJeff and Sir DinkALot,

Are most of the drop weight machines desinged for right handed user? As far as I know the clutch (or tension mech) is facing the right handed user. Just a thought...

[Pete LSD]

Unfortunately, that is the case with all the drop-weight machines that I have seen so far.


Hi Cooler, LB, BlueJeff and Sir DinkALot,

Are most of the drop weight machines desinged for right handed user? As far as I know the clutch (or tension mech) is facing the right handed user. Just a thought...

[silentheart]

Hi Pete,

As far as I know most of electric string machine are also for right hander too.

One additional thing. If you go to a big name sporting good store for restring your badminton racquet. If you see a Prince tennis stringing machine, RUN out there ASAP! Reason, they are for tennis only w/ 2 pt support. Most likly the stringer is Prince certified and they only know how to string tennis racquet... Trust me from my experience, they (machine and stringer) broke my beloved Emrik Boron Graphite and it can not be replaced...

[Pete LSD]

Actually, the Prince Neo 1000 is a fine machine. The stringer has to start the cross from the middle for another over 25 lbs.


Hi Pete,

As far as I know most of electric string machine are also for right hander too.

One additional thing. If you go to a big name sporting good store for restring your badminton racquet. If you see a Prince tennis stringing machine, RUN out there ASAP! Reason, they are for tennis only w/ 2 pt support. Most likly the stringer is Prince certified and they only know how to string tennis racquet... Trust me from my experience, they (machine and stringer) broke my beloved Emrik Boron Graphite and it can not be replaced...

[LazyBuddy]

Hi Cooler, LB, BlueJeff and Sir DinkALot,

Are most of the drop weight machines desinged for right handed user? As far as I know the clutch (or tension mech) is facing the right handed user. Just a thought...

So far, all the drop weight machines I saw, are all for right hander users. Of course, I am pretty sure most lefty should have enough strength to handle the rod + weight as well. :p

[Matt]

The Prince Neo 1000 is a Spring tension machine (4 point). My stringer uses it and he fines it a lot faster to him to string a racket (avg. 20 minutes) compared to him using a electronic tention pull machine. One reason is, there is more hassle on the constant tention pull machine because of the way it works.

However, for Tennis, the constant tention pull is a lot better of using it with compared to the a spring tention.

[Pete LSD]

Yeah, the Neo 1000 has true single-action fixed clamps which dramatically reduce stringing time. The lack of external support also reduce stringing time as there are less obstruction in the way.


The Prince Neo 1000 is a Spring tension machine (4 point). My stringer uses it and he fines it a lot faster to him to string a racket (avg. 20 minutes) compared to him using a electronic tention pull machine. One reason is, there is more hassle on the constant tention pull machine because of the way it works.

However, for Tennis, the constant tention pull is a lot better of using it with compared to the a spring tention.

[jsunsun]

just thought I'd share my relevation. I finally figured out the main reason my my actual tension is much lower than my set tension. I realised that my clamp wasn't tight enough, thus there's always some slippage as i let go to the tensioner. I've been setting my machine to 31x34lbs to get what i feel is ~26x28lbs, but now I've tightenned the clamp and still let the set tension at 31x34lbs, now i have a tension that feels waaaaay tighter than my accustomed 26x28lbs!!:( since it's strung, might as well give the 30+lbs a try. hope i don't hurt my arm and explode the racquet!

[LazyBuddy]

just thought I'd share my relevation. I finally figured out the main reason my my actual tension is much lower than my set tension. I realised that my clamp wasn't tight enough, thus there's always some slippage as i let go to the tensioner. I've been setting my machine to 31x34lbs to get what i feel is ~26x28lbs, but now I've tightenned the clamp and still let the set tension at 31x34lbs, now i have a tension that feels waaaaay tighter than my accustomed 26x28lbs!!:( since it's strung, might as well give the 30+lbs a try. hope i don't hurt my arm and explode the racquet!

Clamp strength is definitely a main reason for tension lost. The higher the tension you set, the more chance you suffer from tension lost %. At least, now your job quality does improve. Congrats! ;)

[taneepak]

Isn't pre-stretching your string going against the aim of retaining the elasticity of your string? I used to pre-stretch my string by holding on to the pull longer but I find that this way the string is not as lively or repulsive. Pre-stretching, if carried too far, is similar to prematurely aging your strings. It will be better to tension at 25/27.5lbs without pre-stretching than to tension 23/25lbs with pre-stretching, because the elasticity of the former has not been aged prematurely.

[Neil Nicholls]

if carried too far,
If you only pre-stretch at less than or equal to the tension you want to string at, I see no problem.

With your method of no pre-stretch, but stringing at a higher tension than requested, you have no idea to what tension the string will relax to. Abd it will be different for BG65 BG68Ti BG80 BG70Pro etc

[silentheart]

1) Pre-stretch is to take out extra slack of the string.
2) Holding a string on the pull longer does not equal to pre-stretching.
3) I pre-strech my string for about 2-5 min depend on string. I do not think any stringer in right mind will pre-stretch for more than an hr and cause prematurely aging of the string.

I second what Neil said.

[taneepak]

Pre-stretching aligns (stretches) the polymer chains in the string and sort of "sets" the string. This reduces tension loss very slightly. The more pre-stretching, prior to stringing, the less tension loss of the string. But the flip side is pre-streching will make the string less lively, even when new strings are strung.
For lively and quality stringing don't pre-stretch. You may lose tension more but if quality is what you are after, I suggest you don't pre-stretch and that you replace with new strings at less than 2-months interval or for even better quality sooner.

[KooGuy]

I don't do pre-stretch but interesting...Does that apply to all strings out there? I understand some strings are more "stretchy" or more elastic than others. For example, I'll have to put a 1 or 2 lbs higher for BG65 because it stretches more compare to my Bio-Roots string. In order to get the best out of the string tension for competitive games, I ususally change my string every 2 weeks.

[elwin81]

Just a question here about the true tension of drop weight machine.

I am following the tensioning method from Eagnas. http://www.eagnas.com/maxgen/linear.html#GRIPOP
Basically when you put the string in the gripper and turn the rod clockwise, the gripper will only grip the string after you turn the rod into certain angle. Then I continue until the rod is horizontal which is the tension I want.

Do you guys think that I need to force the gripper to grip the string intially when the rod is at upright resting position?

Also, there is no way to adjust the gap of the gripper so I am using Dink's business card method. I found that I need to replace the card as it won't grip after few stringing jobs. Dink, you have this problem?

[bluejeff]

No, no need to "force" it, if the angle is not correct, it means you have placed too much of strings out. Loose it, adjust it, and tension it again and it will be fine.

[LazyBuddy]

No need to force it. If you do worry about the final tension, let the rod stay in horizontal position for a long enough period of time (15-20 sec for main, and 20-30 for cross?) should give u fairly accurate tension already.

Replacing a card should be easy enough. Or, clean the grip with a tooth brush + med. alcohol should help as well. ;)

[elwin81]

No need to force it. If you do worry about the final tension, let the rod stay in horizontal position for a long enough period of time (15-20 sec for main, and 20-30 for cross?) should give u fairly accurate tension already.

Replacing a card should be easy enough. Or, clean the grip with a tooth brush + med. alcohol should help as well. ;)

Yes, you mentioned this in other thread to let the rod settle for a while to the horozontal position. In particular, near the top cross strings which we need to wait for a longer time. So what you mean is to hold the string in the gripper without forcing it to grip the string and turn the rod? This will then grip the string automatically after centrain angle?

After few string job, the surface of the card might be a bit smooth which don't have the friction to grip the string. So, need to replace it after some time. It won't work although I clean the gripper as the gap is too large for badminton string if not using the card trick.

I might open another thread to discuss about the machine and take some pics to show you all.


No, no need to "force" it, if the angle is not correct, it means you have placed too much of strings out. Loose it, adjust it, and tension it again and it will be fine.

Sorry, what you mean by the angle? Is it the angle of the gripper when the rod is at upright position? I always put the gripper to horizaontal position when the rod is upright.

Unfortunately, I have already ruin :crying: my NEW machine as the rod will not stay at the exact upright position where there is a screw to prevent it overturn. Might take some pics to show you which is easier to explain.