Just as the title says, when i swing my racket around gently i hear a clicking sound in the cone. When i press on the side of the cone there is also the clicking sound.

Does anybody know what is causing the problem?
My guess is that it has something to do with the glue inside the cone.

It's the wood in the handle which has cracked or something. This has been discussed about before. I have this on my Cab8 and a little bit on my at700. Well.. the one from the cab8 comes from the bending of the shaft ( i used to bend it alot when i just started playing badminton ), and the one from the at700.. i duno why it's making that noise. Maybe it's because i clashed it before or something..

would you recommend me to buy some wood and replace it? Is there a possible chance that if i didn't change the wood the shaft and frame would dislodge and fly off somewhere during a match?

would you recommend me to buy some wood and replace it? Is there a possible chance that if i didn't change the wood the shaft and frame would dislodge and fly off somewhere during a match?The factory told me it was the glue holding the shaft to the wood...dont worry about it is what they said...Maybe a little super glue would help...:)

It's a manufacturing defect or poor quality control whichever u call it. U see, the cone is adhere to the wooden handle with a type of glue which when the lack of it causes this problem. Try knocking the cone out and apply whatever permanent glue u can get hold of and stick it back permanently.

Be carefull! It's not easy to detach the cone without scratching some paint off the shaft.

The factory told me it was the glue holding the shaft to the wood...dont worry about it is what they said...Maybe a little super glue would help...:)

Never use any super glue or epoxy resin on the shaft and wooden handle because super glue does not contract and expand with temperature changes and will crack and detach from the wooden glue. BTW there is no way you can put in any glue onto the shaft/handle as the upper part of the cone is not an integral part of the handle.

Never use any super glue or epoxy resin on the shaft and wooden handle because super glue does not contract and expand with temperature changes and will crack and detach from the wooden glue. BTW there is no way you can put in any glue onto the shaft/handle as the upper part of the cone is not an integral part of the handle.You dont put it into the cone but rather from the butt of the grip where the shaft adheres to the grip...We never have to worry about difference in temperature here so the super glue might work...just a thought...:D

You dont put it into the cone but rather from the butt of the grip where the shaft adheres to the grip...We never have to worry about difference in temperature here so the super glue might work...just a thought...:D

The shaft does not go through the whole wooden handle. FYI, the whole wooden handle from the cone to the butt end is usually a standard 20.3cm length, out of which the shaft that goes into the handle from the cone is just 8.1cm deep. The remaining handle length of 12.2cm is solid wood except for a larger diameter tunnel hole at the back used for balance. Putting glue into this tunnel at the butt end will go no where and will instead become a ballast that cannot be adjusted or fine-tuned later-a terrible mistake.
A better solution is for you to identify a small screw just below the cone and tighten it firmly as far as it can go.

The shaft does not go through the whole wooden handle. FYI, the whole wooden handle from the cone to the butt end is usually a standard 20.3cm length, out of which the shaft that goes into the handle from the cone is just 8.1cm deep. The remaining handle length of 12.2cm is solid wood except for a larger diameter tunnel hole at the back used for balance. Putting glue into this tunnel at the butt end will go no where and will instead become a ballast that cannot be adjusted or fine-tuned later-a terrible mistake.
A better solution is for you to identify a small screw just below the cone and tighten it firmly as far as it can go.For your information, not all manufactures use the same technique and I have seen many rackets that the shaft butt is accessible from the butt end...Not all manufactures use the small screw.. ...Yonex does but some others do not...The use of the screw is to secure the shaft to the handle so that it can not fly off...Besides, we are only talking about a few drops of glue...certainly not enough to affect the balance of the racket...Also the cone is a simple covering of the joining of the shaft and grip...it does nothing at all unless it would be secured to the point of becoming part of the wood grip....in which case the flex point of the shaft would be changed...this is the reason for the plastic/rubber insert in some models cone...it keeps the cone from affecting the shaft...When the handle is further away from the frame the shaft will flex more....:)

Just had a thought that one might put in 1 or 2 extra wood screws into the shaft and grip to see if that stops the cracking/clicking sound...:)

For your information, not all manufactures use the same technique and I have seen many rackets that the shaft butt is accessible from the butt end...Not all manufactures use the small screw.. ...Yonex does but some others do not...The use of the screw is to secure the shaft to the handle so that it can not fly off...Besides, we are only talking about a few drops of glue...certainly not enough to affect the balance of the racket...Also the cone is a simple covering of the joining of the shaft and grip...it does nothing at all unless it would be secured to the point of becoming part of the wood grip....in which case the flex point of the shaft would be changed...this is the reason for the plastic/rubber insert in some models cone...it keeps the cone from affecting the shaft...When the handle is further away from the frame the shaft will flex more....:)

No, what you are saying is not true because I do assemble shaft into wooden holds (aka handles). If a wooden handle is completely covered by the shaft it will shatter easily. Most of the cone does not touch the shaft, only the very short visible part does. The rest is glued onto the outside of the tapered wooden hold at the top. The screw is there not to stop the shaft from flying out but to prevent the shaft from rotating. A well fitted shaft will not fly out from the handle even if no glue is used, but a powerful angular shot will twist (rotate) the shaft in the opposite direction of the handle. The screw is there to prevent this twisting. Without the screw and with glue, a very powerful angular shot will also twist the shaft/handle out of alignment. A shaft that flies out is due to poor qc at the plant where the drilled hole in the wooden handle is too large for the shaft, and the use of plenty of glue is just a band aid. I test this all the time to make customized racquets, which I assemble, with varying shaft lengths and handle lengths. Generally longer handles are used to shorten the visible part of the shaft for doubles. Shorter handles are for singles play. The tunnel at the end of the handle is of varying length, dependent on the handle size. Large handles have a longer tunnel to offset/reduce its extra weight. The plastic/rubber insert at the back is a final balance qc check.

No, what you are saying is not true because I do assemble shaft into wooden holds (aka handles). If a wooden handle is completely covered by the shaft it will shatter easily. Most of the cone does not touch the shaft, only the very short visible part does. The rest is glued onto the outside of the tapered wooden hold at the top. The screw is there not to stop the shaft from flying out but to prevent the shaft from rotating. A well fitted shaft will not fly out from the handle even if no glue is used, but a powerful angular shot will twist (rotate) the shaft in the opposite direction of the handle. The screw is there to prevent this twisting. Without the screw and with glue, a very powerful angular shot will also twist the shaft/handle out of alignment. A shaft that flies out is due to poor qc at the plant where the drilled hole in the wooden handle is too large for the shaft, and the use of plenty of glue is just a band aid. I test this all the time to make customized racquets, which I assemble, with varying shaft lengths and handle lengths. Generally longer handles are used to shorten the visible part of the shaft for doubles. Shorter handles are for singles play. The tunnel at the end of the handle is of varying length, dependent on the handle size. Large handles have a longer tunnel to offset/reduce its extra weight. The plastic/rubber insert at the back is a final balance qc check.Please do not take what you THINK is the only way of doing things as the CORRECT AND ONLY way of doing it....I have customized many rackets myself and talked to different factories about how to customize them...Generally there are many ways to skin a cat....:D

Please do not take what you THINK is the only way of doing things as the CORRECT AND ONLY way of doing it....I have customized many rackets myself and talked to different factories about how to customize them...Generally there are many ways to skin a cat....:D

Well, for a start try to screw another screw in the handle into the shaft and let us know how it goes. It is not as simple as you have claimed.
Perhaps you can explain the extent of your racquet customization. Who knows I may learn a thing or two.

Well, for a start try to screw another screw in the handle into the shaft and let us know how it goes. It is not as simple as you have claimed.
Perhaps you can explain the extent of your racquet customization. Who knows I may learn a thing or two.This is not the time or place for explantions of my skill or lack of it...If you want to PM me then I think we would have some pleasant converstions...Customizing rackets is fun...But what this player only wants to know is about his clicking noise and how to stop it...Maybe a screw would do it or maybe super glue would work if there is access to the butt of the shaft....The racket that I play with all the time has been customized by cutting down the shaft cap and filing away the wood for a spot for my thumb...it works for me and is easy to do....other people would say this is nuts, what works for one does not work for everyone....

i'll just pull out the wood in the handle and replace it when i have time

i'll just pull out the wood in the handle and replace it when i have time

How would you pull out the wood in the handle and then replace it? Believe me, assembling a shaft by drilling a precision hole of 8cm deep in the wooden handle to twist in the shaft and then gluing it is far easier than taking the wooden handle off cleanly. Even the very simple job of srewing in the screw is far from easy, simply because the shaft is almost as hard as diamond and your simple screw will go no where and will quickly wear off.

How would you pull out the wood in the handle and then replace it? Believe me, assembling a shaft by drilling a precision hole of 8cm deep in the wooden handle to twist in the shaft and then gluing it is far easier than taking the wooden handle off cleanly. Even the very simple job of srewing in the screw is far from easy, simply because the shaft is almost as hard as diamond and your simple screw will go no where and will quickly wear off.You must drill a pilot hole first and countersink the head...Like you said the shaft is round and hard as hell to drill but not impossible by any means...I just dont know if it would work or not...might be a big waste of time...That is why the original suggestion of couple of drops of superglue...it is easy to do and if it works ok and if not ok...I have heard of the racket flying off the grip but have never seen it happen...suggestion of factory was to just ignore it...The other thing is this, is the sound coming from shaft cap or actually from the shaft inside the grip??? Most of the time it is the shaft inside the grip..:D

You must drill a pilot hole first and countersink the head...Like you said the shaft is round and hard as hell to drill but not impossible by any means...I just dont know if it would work or not...might be a big waste of time...That is why the original suggestion of couple of drops of superglue...it is easy to do and if it works ok and if not ok...I have heard of the racket flying off the grip but have never seen it happen...suggestion of factory was to just ignore it...The other thing is this, is the sound coming from shaft cap or actually from the shaft inside the grip??? Most of the time it is the shaft inside the grip..:D

the sound is coming from the cone when i swing the racket and press on the cone.

the sound is coming from the cone when i swing the racket and press on the cone.

Actually there is nothing you can do about it other than to tighten the lone screw on the handle or put in some ordinary contact cement (use toothpicks) into the back of the cone where it meets the wooden handle. Do not use super glue whenever you are gluing two surfaces of materials of different thermal properties especially if the glued object is subject to hitting or twisting forces. If the above doesn't help then it could be that the shaft has gotten loose or that there is an internal crack on the handle near the cone.
If you still hear the sound when pressing on the cone and swinging the racquet then it is probably not due to the cone.

the sound is coming from the cone when i swing the racket and press on the cone.If you are sure it is the cone then try the super glue...take off couple of wraps of grip and add some glue...if it works ok and if not then nothing lost...usually there is plenty of openings to put in the glue...good luck but I still would bet it is the shaft but hope it is the cone....:D

Just as the title says, when i swing my racket around gently i hear a clicking sound in the cone. When i press on the side of the cone there is also the clicking sound.

Does anybody know what is causing the problem?
My guess is that it has something to do with the glue inside the cone.

it happenned to my at900t last month
all i did was push the cone cover up,
put some super glue on wood under the cone, put the cone back in position
and settle it for sometime
no clicking sound anymore.

but when i push my cone cover up,
the paint on the lowest part of the shaft was damaged:(
but then i also discovered that the paint on the cone also damaged:(
due to the grip sticky tape
so i did remove all the paint from the cone
now its all black, but its slippery
the yonex original sticker as well 3UG5 sticker is gone too:eek:
the laser engraved cone code is gone too
its actually laser engraved on the cone's paint
it left no trace on the cone after i taken the paint off

The exact sam problem has developed yesterday on my Armortec 500. There is clicking from the cone when swinging and also when pressing the cone. I have removed the grip and the cone is not loose. Is it then likely that the handle has split inside the cone? If i wanted to remove the cone and re-glue it then do u just push it up towards the head of the racket? Only it seems fairly firmly stuck!
If it is the handle that has split is this under warrantey? I would hope so as i hav only had the racket 4 months!
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

The exact sam problem has developed yesterday on my Armortec 500. There is clicking from the cone when swinging and also when pressing the cone. I have removed the grip and the cone is not loose. Is it then likely that the handle has split inside the cone? If i wanted to remove the cone and re-glue it then do u just push it up towards the head of the racket? Only it seems fairly firmly stuck!
If it is the handle that has split is this under warrantey? I would hope so as i hav only had the racket 4 months!
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

yonex racket warranty is 6 months so you may be able to replace it. Just go back to the shop you bought it from.

The exact sam problem has developed yesterday on my Armortec 500. There is clicking from the cone when swinging and also when pressing the cone. I have removed the grip and the cone is not loose. Is it then likely that the handle has split inside the cone? If i wanted to remove the cone and re-glue it then do u just push it up towards the head of the racket? Only it seems fairly firmly stuck!
If it is the handle that has split is this under warrantey? I would hope so as i hav only had the racket 4 months!
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.The price one has to pay for Yonex should guarantee a perfect racket....Take it back...but I am afraid you will not be satisfied with what you find out....hope I am wrong...:D

I have removed the grip and the cone is not loose. Is it then likely that the handle has split inside the cone? If i wanted to remove the cone and re-glue it then do u just push it up towards the head of the racket? Only it seems fairly firmly stuck!
If it is the handle that has split is this under warrantey? I would hope so as i hav only had the racket 4 months!
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

well, i don't really know about the warranty thing.
but here in indonesia, there seem no warranty:(

IMO there is nothing wrong with the handle
its just armortec line came with cs cap cone that a bit 'fat':D
because the wood under the cone isn't custom shaped to match the cs cap
so there are part of the wood that not in contact with the cone inner surface
that where the clicking sound came from IMO

in my case, the cone was not hard to push up
if yours is frimly stuck then the factory glue is still good
after you put the glue, push and press the cone down as far as you can
then settle it for quite some time

good luck!:D

Well i have managed to put some glue (says it is flexiable and shock resistant!) under the bottome of the cone. This seems to have done the trick as the noise has now gone. I think what Tango said about the cone bieng bigger and therfore not in full contact with the wood under the cone seems to make sense. I think this was the problem. Thanks for your help everyone.

just remembered this thread by kwun:

http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21123&highlight=cone+shaft

well i thought the glue solved it, but the noise reocoured. This time i took it to my local badminton shop. They said that it would have to be sent back to yonex for inspection :( hopefully it will be replaced as not very old and in good overall condition. Th shop says similar. I was wondering what they would send as a replacement as it appears they no longer do the armortec 500 tho? What is the equivalent? hmm i will keep u guys posted on what happens.

well i thought the glue solved it, but the noise reocoured. This time i took it to my local badminton shop. They said that it would have to be sent back to yonex for inspection :( hopefully it will be replaced as not very old and in good overall condition. Th shop says similar. I was wondering what they would send as a replacement as it appears they no longer do the armortec 500 tho? What is the equivalent? hmm i will keep u guys posted on what happens.They wont give you a new one but only repair yours....you will be out of a racket for a good while so you had best ask them how long they will have it as it may be better to suffer the little noise irritation...;)

The shop thought that either the handle had spilt somewhere or that prehaps the shaft was breaking, the noise got louder and u could just feel a slight wobble of the shaft within the handle !! I guess yonex should be able to repair it but the shop implied that they usally send a replacement which does seem a little strange if the problem is fixiable. They said it might only take a week or so which would be nice, i think it will prob be longer. In the mean time i have another racket so its not to much of a problem.

It happened to my At700. Very very easy to fix, use super glue, one drop into where the shaft connects the cone, the noise was gone. -- That's it.

Frankly I don't think Yonex will repair it without sending it back to the plant, which is a waste of time. The Yonex regional distributor will have to bear the cost of replacing it with a new one, if your racquet is still under warranty.

Well i have got a rplacement racket from yonex. As they no longer do the armortec 500 they have sent the New Nanospeed 800. Anyone have any information about this racket? All i know is that it is suposed to be similar stiffness to AT 500. Hope it will be similar as i liked my old armortec .
At least they replaced it free of carge and fairly quickly wich is a plus for yonex customer service.

Well i have got a rplacement racket from yonex. As they no longer do the armortec 500 they have sent the New Nanospeed 800. Anyone have any information about this racket? All i know is that it is suposed to be similar stiffness to AT 500. Hope it will be similar as i liked my old armortec .
At least they replaced it free of carge and fairly quickly wich is a plus for yonex customer service.I have never heard of this kind of response from Yonex before....You are the first I have heard of....Especially here in Asia where there seems to be no warranty being honored by the big racket brands...The Distributor is who you should thank as they are the ones that have to handle the warranty problems...I just cant believe how unusual your problem has been handled...So quick and no charge for shipping which is always paid by the customer....you did GREAT....:D:D:D

I found the problem to my clicking sound in the cone/shaft area. I can see a short crack in the middle of the cone. Maybe i have to use superglue to fix the problem. Does anybody have an alternative solution to the cracked cone?

Well well well.. My AT700's now making a huge clicking noise when I swing it a little bit.. but no noise when I do a full swing. It's still under warranty, but i bought it from shuttle-house in Japan.. the airticket is far more expensive than the racquet itself.
Should I just push the cone up and superglue the part of the cone which touches the shaft as others have done ?

Oh.. and my friend's MP99 has the same problem. I wonder what's wrong with his.. it doesn't have the CS-Cap.
My Cab8Sp also has this clicking problem, and yes, it has a huge cone.. that's maybe the reason why it's faulty..

Same problem with my AT500 about 2 months ago, I simply waited until the cone fell off, and saw the wooden handle was cracked. Superglue fixed it, but I was a bit careless and didn't glue at the right angle, so the Yonex side of the cone wasn't lined up with the bevel of the handle. However, there was no more clicking sound ever since..

I used superglue on the shaft/cone area and after 3 layers of superglue the clicking is still there.

IMO there is nothing wrong with the handle
its just armortec line came with cs cap cone that a bit 'fat':D
because the wood under the cone isn't custom shaped to match the cs cap
so there are part of the wood that not in contact with the cone inner surface
that where the clicking sound came from IMO
good luck!:D
I think you're absolutely right.. it keeps happening with Armortecs. Now that many other manufacturers are immitating the CS-Cap, are their racquets going to have the same clicking problem too ? :confused:

I have a Karakal M-Tec 70 which is making a clicking sound when I swing it around gently, and I've only used it a couple of times. Sounds like something is loose. I bought it from overseas so it would be impractical to return to the place of purchase. If I wiggle the shaft I can hear it too - appears to be coming from the handle.

I have a Karakal M-Tec 70 which is making a clicking sound when I swing it around gently, and I've only used it a couple of times. Sounds like something is loose. I bought it from overseas so it would be impractical to return to the place of purchase. If I wiggle the shaft I can hear it too - appears to be coming from the handle.Where did you buy it??
Karakal uses the rubber inserts in the cone and the cone cap will sometimes be loose....if this is the problem then just re-glue it....the cap does nothing anyway....

It was purchased online from Gia Dinh Sports.
It's not a huge problem but a minor annoyance, just hope the shaft and head don't fly off during a game. Not too keen on dismantling it at this stage in case I botch it up even more. The cone assembly feels rather solid. Sounds more like it's coming from midway in the handle rather than the cone.

I think you're absolutely right.. it keeps happening with Armortecs. Now that many other manufacturers are immitating the CS-Cap, are their racquets going to have the same clicking problem too ? :confused:

both my AT900 do that... i doubt there's any problem with it however

It was purchased online from Gia Dinh Sports.
It's not a huge problem but a minor annoyance, just hope the shaft and head don't fly off during a game. Not too keen on dismantling it at this stage in case I botch it up even more. The cone assembly feels rather solid. Sounds more like it's coming from midway in the handle rather than the cone.You should contact Gia Dinh Sports....they have the best return policy in Asia...they replaced a racket for my friend who broke his racket using inexperienced stringer...not even the fault of the racket...:)

Does anyone mind doing a video tutorial on how to fix the clicking noise on the cone? Because I am experiencing everyone's problem for my old Ti-10 and I hope it doesn't snap because of this noise =(

There's a pictorial tutorial here:
http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21123&highlight=clicking+cone

I found that the noise from my M-Tec 70 was just the plastic inserts in the top of the cone sticking/unsticking from the shaft... a bit like the noise arising from attaching and detaching sticky tape. A bit of superglue stopped that.

Just grip over the cone to the shaft and this will support it :P