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A(nother) video

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by Mark A, Jul 18, 2011.

  1. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Here's me stringing a boggo Arcsaber 008 on my personal machine. Some caveats:

    1. Since this isn't being done at a tournament (and it's not one of my rackets:D) I'm going about 20% slower than my top whack;

    2. Some of my machine's bits are getting tried and need replacing;

    3. This is IN NO WAY an attempt at professional quality recording! I'm basically in my pyjamas, and you may even see the cat wandering around wanting a stroke. (I wish I'd taken a picture of the "tripod" I made... out of a stepladder, two elastic bands and a car jump lead.)

    I did consider adding a commentary, but since this is a low res video on an NSP racket I'll save it for next time. The goal is to do a tutorial-type thing at 720+ on an OSP - the hardest one - with a vignette on my starting knot, but I'll answer any questions people have, as this is the only non-prewoven crank video I'm aware of.

    [video=youtube;ueUUQ_-Tpx0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueUUQ_-Tpx0[/video]
    [video=youtube;Zb_1WFBZ-8c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zb_1WFBZ-8c[/video]


    P.S. There's no music, sadly - I normally crank up the Nero but I didn't want Youtube to bounce the videos:mad:.
     
  2. winstonchan

    winstonchan Regular Member

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    yeah!! some Beethoven or Pavarotti at the back would do...
     
  3. beelebala

    beelebala Regular Member

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    What Badminton clamps are you using? Which model is it? Are they better than Pro pro ones?
     
  4. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    I use the universal clamps from W&D, and IMO they are far better than both the stock tennis and badminton clamps in their respective uses.
     
  5. qwertz

    qwertz New Member

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    Hey Mark, nice videos, they are really helpful for me.

    Can you tell me the brand and model of your stringing machine ?
    Im planing to get one soon.
     
  6. Udonming

    Udonming Regular Member

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    How you use the starting clamp to tie the knot, should have a close-up on that.
    Thanks
     
  7. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Pro's Pro Pilot, but it comes in many clone configurations (most notably the Eagnas 810 Combo).

    The rock-and-pull method can be seen demonstrated here:).
     
  8. bsmith

    bsmith Regular Member

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    Nice job Mark. I just strung my first racket last night and watching you and your machine was like deja vu. My Eagnas Combo 810 is set up just like your Pro's Pro with the Chudek supports and the Watdon universal clamps. I have skipped BC for a few days and missed seeing your video on the day it came out. One simple thing I picked up from your video is the advantage of doing a localized preweave for the crosses. On crosses, I started right at the top with the starting knot and wove and pulled each cross string individually. Your partial preweave approach is faster and easier.

    Since a video on your famed Appleton starting knot is not out yet, I went with Taneepak's approach of five loops and two half hitches for a starting knot. It worked well. I used Zymax 62 and gently doubled pulled on it at 29 lbs. with my crank and it seated perfectly and solidly. I used BG66UM for my mains to get more durability. I was so stoked to finish the racket at just past midnight, I went out and hit with it in the backyard with lights on. It seemed to hit harder than ever. It is a backup Apacs Lethal 70 to my Victor MX80 which I will string tonight. Have to restring a Voltric 80 as well.

    I am really looking forward to using the Appleton starting knot soon, so please maybe do a partial video on just that.

    Thanks!
    Bill
     
  9. Ouchee

    Ouchee Regular Member

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    Nicely done Mark. I noticed that I am using the same finishing knot as yours, and just like you I pre-weave the top crosses especially the A15 before tensioning the mains.

    The only different approach that I use is instead of a starting knot, I use a flying clamp for badminton / starting clamp for tennis to start my cross. I am pretty bad with my starting knot, they either get too bulky or sink into the gromment if I am not careful. So far I have not damage / paint chip any racquet using this method http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIbR7OzJJ5k&fmt=18. I wonder if any BC'ers here use this too?
     
  10. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    very nice and solid technique. as we would expect from Mark A!
     
  11. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    The NSP isn't really the best platform to show the full benefits of, as Bill calls it, localized pre-weaving - there's only one difficult hole at the top (H14, in the case of the racket in the video); OSP has three (H7, 9 and 11). NSP does, however, have "no escape" crossovers at the top: if you spot one between H14 and H13 you have to pull the cross out and put it back in; you can probably see me checking for them in Part 2. The last bit before I tie off the bottom cross is a mis-weave check.

    @Ouchee - my finishing knots are Parnells - the tidiest finisher I've yet seen and puts the tail hard against the frame.

    I'll try and get hold of an HD-capable camera and string one of my TPros at normal speed, with a possible sub-macro of my knot. I really really need a WISE on that machine... pity I haven't had a four hundred quid bank error in my favour...
     
  12. kakinami

    kakinami Regular Member

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    I noticed when you tie off your mains you have a little trouble putting in the string, try pushing your main on 8 at an angle then put finishing string to tie knot in. I find it a little easier, and dont have to fiddle with tools. Normally I go bottom to top, I noticed in top to bottom string jobs the top of the head looks more compressed. Nice video!! =)
    Kwun also did a string video
     
  13. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Dink and I have discussed this phenomenon, and I have since adopted the tactic of having the top cross at no more than 28 lbs, and incrementing the tension so it reaches the reference by the time the shared holes are done with. IME it mitigates the "egginess" somewhat, but obviously a B/U or 50/50 would do better.

    I normally run a lubed awl into T8 and 12, and H7, 9 and 11 (OSP) or just the bottom shared hole (NSP) before mouting the racket, but this time I forgot (and using Z70 didn't make it any easier:D )- it normally flies through with a fresh point!
     
  14. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    I also come to the realization as Dink and yourself. The only way to lessen the narrowing at the top part of the frame is to progressively increase tension and limit the first cross to 28 lbs. The crappy part of this method is the drop in tension after one week of play :crying:
    :(:eek:
    :rolleyes:
     
  15. demolidor

    demolidor Regular Member

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    :D Was just going to show a topdown and when I pulled it out I thought wow they are right!? Turns out the string had snapped and deformed the frame :rolleyes:. Glad I checked with the summer break in full effect. Just p***** it was my only BG66M that I've only used once months ago and might have cracked the frame as well [​IMG].

    But perhaps you can tell from this older pic: [​IMG]
     
  16. Kennyb

    Kennyb Regular Member

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    Thanks for sharing the video Mark A. :)

    I've started stringing last year but only on a sporadic bases and never knew about the variation of knots that you have to do. In regards to your cross stringing, is it just a choice of preference to start from the top rather than the bottom?

    K
     
  17. Dekkert

    Dekkert Regular Member

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    Nice video! I wish I could find such a clear video when I started stringing. Funny enough, I see I actually string with almost exactly the same method and machine and I'm stringing for just over a year. I did as much research on this forum as possible before buying my machine and started stringing. I have a Pro's Pro Pioneer. Same machine and clamps but a drop-weight. I also use the spread loaders at 12 and 6 o'clock and have the very thin supports from that London tennis shop.

    The differences are that I add 2 pounds on the crosses. Unlike others, I see hardly, if not any, distortion when adding 2 pounds. Even at 36/38 pounds on an AS10. I also add 2 pounds on the last mains and last cross and I pull them twice to cut most of the slack. I string 2PTD and pull the first two crosses at the same time and pull them twice too before clamping.

    Furthermore, I also use the Parnell knots to end, but I add one or two half hitches to make it a bit bulkier. As starting knot I use the bulky starting knot with one or two extra half hitches to make it bulkier too. However, I'd like to see the way this starting knot is done.


    As for beginning stringers, I found it very helpful that there's a sticky thread about choosing a stringing machine. However, I found it rather difficult to find out what was the best or most used stringing method. I know there isn't a method that is best, but maybe it is very helpful to have a sticky thread about the different stringing methods (Haribito, 1PTD, 1PBU, 2PBU, 2PTD, ...) and their advantages and disadvantages. Then the beginning stringer can choose for himself which method he wants to use.
    I had to look for days/hours in many, long threads and discussions before finding just one or a few helpful answers. Maybe just something to think about.

    Greetings!
     
  18. bsmith

    bsmith Regular Member

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    Since learning of Mark's variation of the bulky knot that he calls a compound bulky knot, I have used it a number of times with great success. Soon, I will post a Compound Bulky Knot Review complete with pictures and instructions on how to tie it.
     
  19. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    My mate from Scotland is coming home again soon with his camera, so I'll try and do a video of an old string pattern racket to show how to make all the shared holes easy. Watch this space.
     
  20. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    Hi Mark,

    I was wondering, are the sideposts of your machine (2,4,8 and 10 o'clock) sideways U shaped like the ones on the Yonex ESPROs? surely yours came with your machine. But are we able to get them for other machines?
     

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