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additional tension in a 4 knots stringing

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by gavias, Dec 10, 2006.

  1. gavias

    gavias Regular Member

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    How much additional tension should be applied in a 4 knots stringing process, in the strings that will have the knots (the finish and the starter knot - for the cross)?
     
  2. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    Vertical: X kg force of your preference
    Horizontal: X (1+10%) kg force

     
  3. gavias

    gavias Regular Member

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    I am not refering to the diference between the mains and the crosses. I am refering to the addional tension that should be applied to the strings that will have the knots, because this strings always loose same tension.
     
  4. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    On my drop-weight machine, I add 10% to 30% over tension. You also need a string puller to help you reduce the amount of tension lost during the tying knot process.

     
  5. Matt

    Matt Regular Member

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    From what my what my local store does is that the string ,that will also have the knots is to be pulled at the same tention.
     
  6. DinkAlot

    DinkAlot dcbadminton
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    I go 2 or 3 lbs. more up to 33lbs. If it's above 33lbs. on the last cross string, I do not.
     
  7. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    No over tension on the last cross :eek:? :D You get to crank it up to 38 lbs for the tie off :D.

     
  8. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    There are various ways to make up the loss of tension, but I don't think there's a difference in btw 2 vs. 4 knots. :rolleyes:
     
  9. taneepak

    taneepak Regular Member

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    Here is one way you can check on areas of potential tension loss : the tension of the first and last cross strings should be equally taut. The same applies to the two extreme side main strings. Two-knot stringing seems to suffer from either frame distortion (when stringing mains from one extreme side to the other, instead of from the middle) or uneven tension of the extreme side strings when stringing mains from the middle (one side of the extreme side main string is looser than the other side) which will actuall put the frame under stress.
     
  10. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Good point and I agree. :)
     
  11. Russki Bear

    Russki Bear Regular Member

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    Hey guys, I have a question - BG80. If I pull the knot too tight it just snaps. I am using a single loop (half hitch) which I pull out from the grommet, and using a clamp, tighten it on the way back in. Then I over tie it to make the knot too fat for the grommet. I was shown this method - should I try differently?

    On other strings I tend to get the two sides pretty close in tension but BG80 and sometimes the Ti stuff tends to break.
     
  12. Matt

    Matt Regular Member

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    Have you tried the double half hitch?
     
  13. Russki Bear

    Russki Bear Regular Member

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    I thought that would make it too hard to pull it tight but I'll have a go I suppose. I might go two peice stringing from now on anyway. Not a lot of extra work.
     
  14. taneepak

    taneepak Regular Member

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    The sliver of vectran in BG80 and BG85 and the rest of the multifilaments have different creep properties. This makes it a bit less able to withstand the tremendous load and stress when pulling the first cross string to tension the starting knot. You can solve this by using lower tensions or use only a real starting knot and not a half hitch or a double half hitch as a starting knot.
     
  15. Russki Bear

    Russki Bear Regular Member

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    Oh no I don't mean the starting knot, the finishing knot. I kinda live in a badminton vacuum area and taught myself to string. I think I do a pretty good job in the end, except for these rough edges which need to be ironed out.
     
  16. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    You can pre-stretch the two main strings just before the tie off. Darthhowie witnessed this method. I use a drop-weight machine and I just leave the strings in the tension jaw for 3 to 5 minutes.

    I also use a single half-hitch knot to tighten but for finishing I add a pro knot.

    Tightening the single half-hitch knot is very tricky. As you said, too much tension and the string pops. Controlling the amount of drop (drop-weight machine) is crucial. Knowing when to stop pulling is all by observation, feel, type of string and experience.

    You can also tighten the pro knot. Once again, you have to know when to stop.

    http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22331&page=7

    http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22331&page=8

     
    #16 Pete LSD, Jan 29, 2007
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2007
  17. Russki Bear

    Russki Bear Regular Member

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    Ah thanks a heap guys, that is excellent Pete. I did search for knots but I didn't know exactly what I was after. I will study the photos and your descriptions and see if I can improve what I do. I have already picked up a few ways in which my way might be a little less than optimal.
     
  18. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    Tie Off Procedure

    Here are the photos to accompany my explanation earlier.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. CoolDoo6

    CoolDoo6 Regular Member

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    I use 3 knots on the tie off. There's no need to over tighten the knot because that will cause the knot to cut the string on a hard miss hit. 3 knots on BG65 produces sufficient bulk and frictional grip to prevent the the knot from disappearing into the grommet. For thinner strings, you can use maybe 4 knots on the tie off. My tie off has been used on large number of rackets and proven against hard hitters.
     
  20. taneepak

    taneepak Regular Member

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    In 2-pcs 4-knots stringing, if you choose the throat end to be your cross's starting knot, you will have to add at least 10% more tension for the tie-off knot at the tip end. Better still if you can ensure the tie-off process at the tip end doesn't lose any tension from string slack. If you have the cross's starting knot at the tip end and the tie-off at the throat end you need not be so demanding with the tie-off. The reason is that the stringbed at the top half and the bottom half (especially the area near the last few botttom strings) have different bounce characteristics.
     

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