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Current stringing methods

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by Drache, Feb 26, 2014.

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  1. Drache

    Drache Regular Member

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    I'm relatively new at stringing (9 mouths). Im using a kind of homemade 50/50, 1 piece stringing method with +2 lbs on crosses with my babolat sensor expert.
    What I would like to know is what method you guys are using at the moment?
    If its down top, top down or something else and with what ratio between mains and crosses and if you use prestretch (x %) and if it's 1 or 2 piece.
    I'm looking for the method with the best playability...
    I know this has been disgust before but I want to hear peoples latest thoughts on the subject.
    Sorry about my english I hope you understand me anyway :)
     
  2. DarthHowie

    DarthHowie Regular Member

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    My Machine: Gamma 6004 with Michal Side Supports + Wise2086
    Wise settings: 10% pre-stretch, constant pull, pull speed of 3
    I string mostly: 2 piece 4 knot top down
    i.e. if someone wants 24 lbs I string the mains at 23 lbs and the crosses at 25.3.
    For the top 4 crosses i do proportional stringing (1 pound more than main) before i move to 10% more than main for remaining crosses going down (may or may have to go back to 1 pound more than main for the last 2-3 bottom crosses).

    If I need to string 1 piece 2 knot: I use Haribito Pro Pattern.
     
  3. Drache

    Drache Regular Member

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    Why do you do proportional stringing?
    Is it for less frame stress or does it give better playability ?
     
  4. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Two-piece top-down with both hand and 10% ECP prestretch.

    When I see "X lb", I do the crosses at X lb and reduce the mains an appropriate amount. For example, "30 lb" means, to me, 28x30.
     
  5. Drache

    Drache Regular Member

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    Alright thanks.
    Do you use proportional stringing ?
     
  6. mater

    mater Regular Member

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    I string Haribito. Only 2PTD if I have specific request for 2P, for children or my rackets that I lend out, if I have shorter broken strings.

    I am on a dropweight so I prestretch by hand to remove memory and elasticity on every string job, regardless of string.

    For "x" lbs, I do 1-1.5 lb under for mains and 1-1.5 lb over for crosses (1 lb for the lower lb requests, 1.5 lb for the higher requests), unless the racket is spec'ed higher than request, then the "x" lb is the cross and the mains are 10% under.

    On tie-offs, I increase the tension on the last pull and keep the tie-offs short to compensate for tension loss in that portion.

    Of course, I pay very high detail to eliminating cross-overs on every racket.

    For me, I find Haribito provides great playability. The positives are it's 1P (less tension loss from tie-offs), basically TP (for playability), the downside is it is a little harder to weave than other methods.

    I won't say it's best because everyone will have their preferences, from manufacturers down to stringers to racket owners.
     
  7. Blitzzards

    Blitzzards Regular Member

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    I do my jobs with uniform tension, for example if I were to string a raquet to 30lbs, I tension the main strings to 30lbs and then the cross strings to 30lbs with 10% pre-stretch. I base my method on this experiment.

    Now comparing the method I use to the more typical tensions (main x cross) used by others as listed (all referencing a 30lbs job):

    1. 30 x 30 lbs (typical Yonex tournament stringing)
    2. 29 x 30 lbs (Yonex method during Olympics 2012 according to Alan Kakinami
    3. 30 x 33 lbs (a pretty recent one I came across)
    4. 28 x 30 lbs (Mark Appleton's)
    5. 29 x 31.5 lbs (an estimate of DarthHowie's)

    I guess my string jobs might come out stiffer and at an overall higher tension than the others, other than maybe method 3 listed above.

    As for string pattern I have been using a modified Haribito pattern (which goes down the throat rather than up) when I do 1-piece 2 knots or the regular Yonex throat to top method when requested to do 2-piece 4 knots.
     
  8. DarthHowie

    DarthHowie Regular Member

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    I do this mainly to keep overall racket shape. These are factors that the stringer must adjust for based on the machine, supports, tensioner and clamps. There is no 1 right way. You'll learn this over time and as you experiment. It's a fun process, especially when you start experimenting with different string since you have to adjust based on the elasticity of the string.
     
  9. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    exactly.

    all machines are different. a beast of a machine like the ES5Pro might not even need to add any tension on cross to keep the racket shape. cheaper machine tend to deform more after the mains are done so a little more is need. it is hard to believe as most of the machine looks super beefy, but if you think about it more, there are 22 main string, if each one of them has 25lbs tension, that 1000+lbs pulling on both sides of the support.

    the key is to experiment, don't be too hung up with the shape of the racket, but instead the playability of the racket+string afterwards.
     
  10. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Never saw the point of prop stringing. The strings aren't quarantined from each other; there will be some interaction, and all stringbeds eventually even out and reach equilibrium.
     
  11. Helios

    Helios Regular Member

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    what means top down or bottom up?
     
  12. DarthHowie

    DarthHowie Regular Member

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    It's the locations where you start stringing the crosses of a racket and then where you finish.

    ... i was ready to go off with Drake's song..."started from the bottom now we here..."
     
  13. Helios

    Helios Regular Member

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    thx ;) I will receive my first stringing machine today, RDY for my first attempt, already pre streched my string, fingers crossed.
     
  14. heroclass

    heroclass Regular Member

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    Top down, prestretch by hand, 10% cross with yonex racquet, 2lbs Crosses for other, 4 knots
     
  15. xZhongCheng

    xZhongCheng Regular Member

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    I have done many in the past.

    One Piece
    2 Piece Bottom Up
    2 Piece Top to Bottom

    I am currently learning how to do the 50/50 method w/ 10% more on the cross. It takes a little longer, but I feel like its well worth the effort.
     
  16. Drache

    Drache Regular Member

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    Alright, thanks a lot everybody :)
    Helped a lot :)
    I'll noticed that it doesnt really matter ìf i add 0% or 15 % on crosses on my machine. It still maintains the head shape.
    I have also played around with different stringing method and found that the best for me is the 50/50 method.
     
  17. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    i too find that 50/50 give the best playability. too bad it is such a pain to string. :(
     
  18. Fidget

    Fidget Regular Member

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    You should try Master Paizhuan!
    Holds tension beautifully, but requires an intricate dance of clamps.:eek:
     
  19. Drache

    Drache Regular Member

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    Have fast can you make a 50/50 compared to a regular one ? Is there that much difference?
    It don't find the 50/50 that much slower. I'm around 30 min.
     
  20. xZhongCheng

    xZhongCheng Regular Member

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    I have done a few rackets with the 50/50 pattern. It takes me roughly 35 mins to do it as opposed to 27 mins going from top to bottom or bottom to top.
     

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