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Custom-Made Stringing Machine Parts

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by Pete LSD, Dec 24, 2009.

  1. maa2003

    maa2003 Regular Member

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    you do not have to worry for the shipping cost boss.
    if it is worth, it would be no meaning for the shipping cost.
    to me, using high shipping cost but secure (for example using DHL, FedEx, UPS or similar) is better.

    just do let us know how much for 1 set (4 pieces) and shipping cost.

    we wait for your further information.
     
  2. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    These clamps are very promising, but I would suggest making the base significantly thinner. The higher the racket sits in the machine, the more angle there is between the string and the horizontal when pulling, which will make the true tension end up lower than the set value.

    I've seen a few Pro's Pro Pilot/XP and other Eagnas 800/900 Combo clones on here, and these have removable rubber mats at 12/6. If these are removed the racket will drop down another 5 mm, which would be as good as we can get; ideally, the shaft would only just clear the puller when spinning the racket, getting as close to a horizontal string pull as possible.

    Of course, some machines would need the extra clearance of the thick base, so the base thickness would probably end up being customer-specified:).
     
  3. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    Ooooo....! i like the one with the round back, it looks smoother and more defined. but i also like the other one's thinner profile as well as the protruding front (give more clearance).

    perhaps the two properties can be combined? that will make an perfect one IMHO.
     
  4. Michal

    Michal Regular Member

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    Which version is better and why?
    First is "half cnc" ,welded, upper cnc side (with yellow sleeve) is 6mm width, bottom side 14mm. Second (on the pics all black at the moment, without a rubber sleeve) all 12mm width. Both with M8 steel screws.. Mark A: It could be some problem with making "lower" base, but I will think about this. It's interesting. Thanks for opinion.
    6.jpg 9.jpg 3.jpg 2.jpg 4.jpg 6.jpg 7.jpg 5.jpg 8.jpg
     
  5. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    The ones with the curved back get my vote - the fewer sharp edges and/or corners there are the less chance there is of accidentally fouling or, worse, snapping a string on them.

    However, the ones with the round backs look slightly too wide to me; they should fit between the closest holes on a racket (those in the middle of the crosses) without blocking them at all. If they were 1 mm or so wider than the Mk1s (with the rubbers included) they would be a winner for me:).

    If I may ask, what would be the problem with making a thinner base?
     
  6. Michal

    Michal Regular Member

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    The base now is 14mm (version "yellow) and 12mm (all black) "highest". The screw needs maybe 7mm (for 5-6 threads of screw) this link should be durability enaugh. So the base could be only 5-7mm lower than now. In my opinion ~6mm its not many differents.
    I don't exactly understand why the base should be lower. I've been using this first version more than 6 months- at least 30 racquets. This pulling string angle (not horizontal) imo it's no problem.
    I'm affraid that my language skills are not enaugh to explain (and sometimes to understand) everything clearly, but I will try.
     
  7. .spot.

    .spot. Regular Member

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    no welding

    You can achieve a cnc-milling-only production by making the piece asymmetrical. Not shure, how stability is affected, but since there are 2 screws, torsion would be not much of a problem.
    clamp.jpg
    Are the wider (black) pieces also watercut? If you have access to a milling machine, you could do it that way in order to not needing to weld pieces together.
    Downside is, you would have to make two different, mirrored pieces. Or you decide to make the piece universal, with 2 openings, one inside, one outside.
     
  8. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    what spot has is spot on!

    that's what would be ideal. and with even more curve at the back so strings won't get caught.

    i will pay money for something like that.
     
  9. .spot.

    .spot. Regular Member

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    waterjet

    another idea from yesterday night, in case milling is too expensive..
    It's a waterjet-only solution, but I'm not shure if it's really doable by watercutting, due to the tolerances in this thickness.

    two pieces, the top clamp will slide into the "V"-groves of the base part. the screws go through the whole base part into the "V"-groves and press up the clamp, so it cannot move.
    waterjet.jpg
    I'm not shure how critical it is for the base-part, not to have these sharp edges. to cover them, yet another part would be required :-s maybe a short rubber profile, like it's used as gasket in windows or doors, would do. similar to this one:
    99308_Classic-P-Profil-Dichtung_xxl.jpg
    for the screws, something like this could be used to achieve enough pressure to hold the 2 parts in fixed position (only longer):
    000135848-4.jpg

    That's it for now, have fun developing:rolleyes:
     
  10. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Even with the dovetails it would be a good idea to put a few dots of weld along the joint to keep them from sliding.

    I'm tempted to get Solidworks out and do some CAD models of these:).
     
  11. .spot.

    .spot. Regular Member

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    Maybe yes. But the whole idea with the dovetails was to avoid welding and have a waterjet-only-production. The pressure from the screws would prevent the clamp from moving, but this would need some testing.
    Btw with this system, the badminton specific clamp could be removed by just loosening the screws, and e.g. a tennis clamp could be sled in. No need to completely remove the part from the machine.

    No problem, I'm too lazy to do so ;-) Probably cause I got nothing to do with stringing, I just like to think about design problems..
    Since you got the model already.. If you do the solution from my upper post, you can lower the clamp-part ca. 5mm, imagine the lower "grip" directly coming out of the base-part. Saves some height.
     
  12. Michal

    Michal Regular Member

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    Thanks for opinion, especially for .spot. ideas. IMO the idea with linking base with top clamp without welding is really nice.
    I think, that we don't need special screws- this is single use only, I mean that screw will be wriggle only once.. In my opinion it's no necessary to use rubber profil from door or window, double termo sleeve is really durability and looks better. But the conception with connecting both of parts is smart. I hope it's possible to make.
    Now i need to talk with contractor (cnc engineer). Then measure everything (using your suggestion about size of base and upper clamp), design on CAD, buy good steel and make.

    The shipping abroad should be easier than I thought before, paying using PayPal it's simple too.
    Please give me another few days, mayby 1 week. I will make another (hope final) version, and will give you pictures and information about price with shipping cost.

    Best regards,
    Michal
     
  13. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    the problem i see with .spot. latest design is that the v-groove will likely catch some strings. one of the most important property is that surfaces and corners must be smooth so loose strings will just glide across without getting caught.
     
  14. Michal

    Michal Regular Member

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    In previous post I forgot about one important thing. I need to know how many sets do I need to make (initially, without obligation).I need this information to calculate the final price (more sets=>lower price). Please write me PM

    Cheers,
    Michal
     
  15. DinkAlot

    DinkAlot dcbadminton
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    Panda will take 1 for sure, up to 3 sets.

     
  16. singnflip4life

    singnflip4life Regular Member

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    I don't have a similar machine, but if you can machine one to go in a SP e.stringer DG, I'd get one set as well

    I'd be more than happy to email specs of my current supports to see if its compatible with no or very little adjustments
     
    #96 singnflip4life, Oct 19, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2010
  17. .spot.

    .spot. Regular Member

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    I didn't think of the rubber profile as a substitute for the thermo-sleeve at the contact point with the racket...
    The v-groove is likely to hurt the strings or hinder the work of the stringer. Therefore, I suggest to cover them with a rubber profile.

    Maybe the picture was a bit confusing, so here's another one:
    profil_there.jpg

    Overall, I think the milling-only-solution is much more straight forward. 1 piece, no worries.
     
  18. Fidget

    Fidget Regular Member

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    I would be interested in something like this. But every machine probably has different gaps between the two screw holes making mass production troublesome.

    My wish, would be to have the support projecting a little further forward from the base. This would allow the fixed clamps to be used a little closer to the racket frame for those last mains.
     
  19. Michal

    Michal Regular Member

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    http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8123/00004a.jpg

    Only my pictures now (my poor drawing). For real supports I need to wait another few days, it takes more time, than i thought before.

    Difference:

    1. Thinner base („Mark A” advice), the racquet will be mounted lower (~5mm) than before, waterjet made
    2. wider „upper” side (35->43mm)- without sharp edges, longer weld
    3. smoother edge (margin), safety for strings
    4. better looking welds (junctions)- propably MIG/TIG with grinding
    5. both parts (top and bottom base) cnc made (waterjet)
    6. double layer of termo protection sleeves

    Be patient please, I will write and will add real new pictues as soon as I can,
    „singflip4life”, it's possible, please response for my message ( I sent to your mail (not PM) your picture with my marks and asked for some sizes).

    Best regards,
    Michal
     
  20. singnflip4life

    singnflip4life Regular Member

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    Sorry about that Michal. It's been really hectic and I haven't even had time to cook (so tired of take-out). I've replied to your email and sent you the measurements. Thanks for all your hard work!
     

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