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getting the cross started

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by kupc-xd, Mar 21, 2010.

  1. kupc-xd

    kupc-xd Regular Member

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    hey guys.

    recentely i have been doing 2 piece stringing jobs, but i am wondering about something.
    then you start your cross' should you then put direct tension on the first string or weave on more ?( i normally do a regular starting knot, followed by a pro am knot) i have been searching on the forum and have seen many different knots, but some of them requires that you have a new grommet? I have also seen people write a Dinkalots, special starting knot with a twist or what it's called, but haven seen a picture of it yet, if someone has a picture please post it.:rolleyes:

    thank you
     
  2. dunmaster

    dunmaster Regular Member

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  3. kupc-xd

    kupc-xd Regular Member

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    thnx a lot, tríed it and it worked well :rolleyes:
     
  4. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    I always tension the first string and do so very slowly - if your starting knot is good enough it will stand up. I have my own starting knot, of which I plan to take sequenced pictures and put on BC at some point. It's really neat and the tail sits against the frame like a Parnell;).
     
  5. s0nnay

    s0nnay Regular Member

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    I tension the first string also but as stated your starting knot has to be good. The yonex stringers and some others i've seen tension the 2nd string, not sure why but i guess there must be a decent reason though. I think it's down to preference.
     
  6. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Depend. My preference is to tension from the first cross. However, in case of fly clamps only, you can not tension first cross and clamp on. So you have to do first 2 crosses with 1 pull and clamp on the 2 crosses.
     
  7. allyjack110

    allyjack110 Regular Member

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    I have a similar query about the 'correct' process for starting the cross section. According to Yonex, when using a two-piece stringing pattern the cross section should begin at the bottom and progress upwards. However, my usual stringer, who uses a top-of-the range Babolat Sensor machine (around £4,500 = $7,200 USD) begins his crosses at the top and works his way downwards. BUT, he avoids tensioning the first cross and instead begins the tensioning process on the next string. He reasons for doing so are because appararently tensioning the top cross puts unnecessary strain on the frame. Is this correct? As a NON-stringer this seems to make sense to me as the top cross on all my restrung rackets appear noticeably looser compared to the rest of the string-bed. My question is, if this is indeed the correct method, how does one finish the last cross at the top without tension if the crosses were started at the bottom?

    Please note that I am not a stringer... yet, but I am trying to acquire myself as much info as possible before purchasing my first machine. Hence, the very long-winded question. I'll most likely purchase a manual crank machine, WITHOUT fixed clamps; flying clamps instead.

    Thank you in advance.
     
    #7 allyjack110, Mar 11, 2011
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2011
  8. illusionistpro

    illusionistpro Regular Member

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    Electronic constant pull tension head's like the wise, yonex and victor all pull very hard. It's difficult to explain, but even at low tensions and especially at high tensions they will pull the knot through. That is why I pull the 1st two crosses together.
     
  9. _Rav_

    _Rav_ Regular Member

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    I'd be interested to see that ... so far starting knots are my biggest problem, and weaving that last crosses with little/no space.
     
  10. kakinami

    kakinami Regular Member

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    The constant pull machines pull the knot through, and sometimes break the knot. That is why we pull the first 2 crosses, because the knots break.
     
  11. monticore

    monticore Regular Member

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    i start the crosses using a starting clamp, pull on the second cross then at the end pull the bottom cross then do my finishing knot, i don;t like the idea of pulling on a knot and this way all my knots looks the same.


    cory
     
  12. CovinaStringer

    CovinaStringer Regular Member

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    You should do at least 5 to 6 crosses before tying off, or else you risk of pulling string through the string clamp, which may damage string. Having at least 3 crosses will have enough friction to prevent any string damage from the clamps.
     
  13. monticore

    monticore Regular Member

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    i normally do all e crosses before trying off

    cory
     
  14. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    The Yonex machine (and the WISE, according to the owners I know) is especially strong, and thus espcially prone to this issue. However, the first cross is loose mostly because there are no crosses on both sides to provide friction, so the tension loss is less noticable. Also, the first cross contributes the least of them all to the overall bed stiffness.

    AK's pattern will suffer all the less from the double pull because of his extra cross;).
     
  15. allyjack110

    allyjack110 Regular Member

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    ...So if you start from the bottom and work your way up (two-piece method), does the last cross at the top require tensioning? I only ask because whenever I get my rackets strung the top cross always seems considerably looser when compared to the rest of the entire string bed. I usually have my rackets at 23lbs.
     
  16. monticore

    monticore Regular Member

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    mark a pointed out that because the last top and last cross don't have adjacent strings on both side they will seem looser. also being the tie off string they will lose some tensions there as well.

    i normally add +2lbs on my main tie offs, but i don't add any weight on my cross tie offs because there are already being done at+2lbs over the mains.

    cory
     
  17. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    compared to lockout machine, ECP machines are stronger in the way that it will maintain the constant tension. but that should apply to all CP machine including dropweights.

    24lbs is 24lbs is 24lbs. unless the calibration is wrong then both machine should be the same. i remember we tested Yonex/AK's ES5Protech against my WISE, the difference in calibration is around 0.2lb, which should be negligible.

    but this is the part that i don't really understand. after i used it last week, the string job that came out from the Pro/Protech "feels" tighter. and it kinda confirms it too because the frequency that came out of two comparable jobs are:

    ARC10 - BG66UM - 26lbs - WISE - 1244Hz
    ARC9FL - BG66UM - 25lbs - ES5Pro - 1250Hz

    now, for the 9FL i did have AK staring at me so i was less sloppy and took my time and really waited for the machine to settle while when i string the ARC10 i probably rushed it through a little.
     
  18. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Could be something as simple as you paid more attention to straightening the crosses during tensioning on the "tighter" racket. Like you said, 24 is 24, but a "bent" 24 is looser than a "straight" 24 (no sniggering:p).
     
  19. kwun

    kwun Administrator

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    nah. i always straighten the cross. mandated by AK. ;)
     
  20. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    Lock out and drop weight allows easier control when pulling the first cross. The stringers can substantially slow down the rate of pull on the first cross; hence, the need for reducing first cross's tension or just pulling on the second cross is avoided in most cases. For electronic machines, the stringer has to be very careful. Reduction in first cross tension or just pulling the second cross is a must.
     

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