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Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by Gemcat, Jul 31, 2009.
Has anyone heard of such method and where can I try this stringing style in Vancouver?
Have fun and enjoy,
You don't need to know Japanese to understand the instruction.
Wow....I don't understand a thing in there....Haha....I don't string my racquets either because I don't have the tools and leisure....
It's just a one piece method with the tie offs at the top and bottom cross.
any thoughts on how this compares to yonex's recommended stringing pattern?
Gemcat, I can do it for you. Main & cross the same tension.
Someone did compared this to YY (both 1 pc & 2pcs) and they said tension retention is the best and the feel is also the best.
Interesting. My Japanese was a little rough. Took me 2 min of reading to figure out the stringing pattern. 1) it is not the traditional main 11 then main 10 as YY suggested. It is doing main 10 then main 11. 2) after tensioning all the mains, it start from middle and 1 side up and 1 side down.
My question to ilovedude is did you tried it and find any difference? I prefer not to take other's word at it's face value. Also, thank you because I just learned something new today.
No, same as you I only learned about this Gosen way yesterday. I remember I asked this question (different way) a few months back and got no answer. In Asia particular in China they have lot of different theories about stringing. My main concern to start with this is the main and cross is the same tension and those guru here are almost lean to the +10% rule. I don't have any racket to string right now but for sure my next string job would be with this.
this is interesting. i took my cab 8 to be strung at yo's in toronto, and this guy has an amazing reputation for stringing. I came back, and for the longest time until now, I didn't know what stringing pattern he did.
I have to admit though, after nearly a year and a half, the cab 8 strings still perform better than ever, barely any tension lost. Im curious to try this on my Ti-10s.. Will post results in a couple of days..
I'm eager to try this for myself as well now. Do the traditional methods still apply? Such as +10% on cross and the need for progressional stringing?
interesting pattern, looks like a 50/50 1 piece pattern. String mains straight out from middle to outside, and then one side does the upper crosses, and other does lower crosses. I cant tell right now if this is good, but I wouldnt think so since you are putting a lot of stress on the weakest part of the crosses right away, and increasing the stress every additional cross. I guess I could try this on a panda power ultra...I think a tennis around the world pattern would be better.
I suppose one benefit is all the tie offs are on the extreme ends, leaving your a more consistent stringbed
this is what Pete also referred as the shuttle-house pattern.
i don't know if the Japanese instruction says this:
there are 6 cross going down, and 15 cross going up. another trick to this patten is when transitioning from main to cross, string downward 4 strings (green string on the diagram), and then up 7 strings (blue), then down 2 strings (green) to complete the bottom, and then up 8 strings (green) to complete the top.
i haven't tried it myself but will next time i break a string.
the next question then is. why not go one step further? instead of starting the cross from 2/3 down start it bang in the middle? that's the Luxis stringing pattern (with 4 knots) and Luxis stringing feels very good.
I would not start the cross in the middle. The reason id you will have too much slack from main transition to cross on the side of the frame. Extra stress put on the sides. Also you waste about 5 cm of string if you start crosses from the middle
If you did 2 piece you could start dead middle, but if you do 1 piece you gotta just start where you are.
I think the issue is this string pattern is for 1 piece. Or else you might be looking at a 3 pieces method...
Just add 10% to the bottom cross before tie off and 15% to the top cross before tie off.
I still prefer two piece top down . . .
Could somebody draw a nice schema of this "Luxis" stringing method? This one looks interesting, I will try this Gosen method out once I get some spare racquets to string.
The other thing to note I think is that those who have swivel clamps will need a couple of flying clamps as well. Cos you'll end up with two string tensioned at the same side in transition from mains to crosses.
How much extra would you need for the long side main to finish the 16 crosses compared to the 6 on the short side?
I did one yesterday. I prestretched the string and pre-weave it. Since I don't have fixed clamp on my machine, I have to pull the first cross of the short side and clamp the string from outside the frame then I pull the first cross from the long side and clamp both first string with 2 clamps inside and work the long side all the way up. Pretty smooth operation, 21 lbs main and cross. The finished shape surprisingly looks like the un-strung frame. I like it.
You pull one at a time, for those machines have fixed clamps you simply pull the first cross of the short side and release the fixed clamp from the main and clamp the first cross and vise versa. I guess I will buy couple more flying clamps in order to do a better job.
By the way, for the short side I need 6 1/4 racket length to complete (a loop left @ L1 & L2 for pulling)
I don't understand why sihker has to refer this one as "Luxis" ???
I was wondering what's "Haribito". Found the answer here: