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Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by silentheart, Jun 6, 2007.
Thank you Kwun for your hard work.
Just an update on M140. Last night, I had 2 exactly same racquets (NS500) with BG65 I strung up for sale. I strung 1 with M140 and 1 with Baiardo and both are at 22x24.2lb. Both 2 pieces throat up.
Here is the setting on Baiardo
5% pre stretch
head speed 95%
Here is the M140 setting
pre stretch on door knob by hand for 15 sec.
tension bar is <5 degree from level.
YY fly clamps
Here is what I found.
1) M140 final tension from the string tone sounds about >1 lb and <2 lb lower than than Baiardo. My wife and I can clearly hear the difference.
2) Both racquet head comes off the same. No difference to out inspection.
3) Baiardo=25 min vs M140=22 min from mounting to racquet off the machine.
4) M140 has ext ~10 cm string left over than Bairado.
I am guessing the pre-stretch on Baiardo and fix clamps makes the final string bed tighter.
Will give you my conclusion on playability tomorrow.
you strung a racket in 22mins with the M140? *respect*...
OK here is my report on M140 vs Baiardo.
I had a chance to mess around with the 2 identical NS500 strung by the same person (me). Both machine has beed calibrated correctly to produce same tension pull given the tension bar on the M140 is perfectly leveled. I have both racquet in hands and switch every 5~10 shot while shuttle is in flight.
On clear. The shot comes out further about 5~10 cm consistantly for Baiardo. Sound crispier and feel easier to deliver the shot. Both racquet produce consistant shot and controlI have no problem return the shuttle to where I like it to go. On the clear from my forhand corner box (I am right handed) straight to the other side corner box, I need to hit a little harder with the M140.
On net drop. The ting sounds better on the Baiardo string bed and feel it bounce a little higher. Control is much better with Baiardo after 5 min of getting use to both racquet.
On the back court drop. This is where the biggest difference come from. Baiardo control is so much better and much tighter to the net.
On Smash. Both feel the same power while Baraido produce better angle.
Over all, I will say M140 is about 8.5/10 on the play. For the price I paid for M140 vs Baiardo, I will say it is one good value machine.
While this is certainly interesting to note, we have to remember that knowing which racket is which while playing can have psychological effects and affect your shots. And while both rackets are the same and were stringed by the same person the same way in identical conditions, it is impossible for both rackets and strings to be exactly the same, which can also effect your shots, maybe in a more minor way. Aka anecdotal experiment.
I'm not dismissing the results of the test though, just bringing something to the table. Let's do the test with 100 different people that don't know which racket was strung by which machine with an observer that knows Ok that might be a little much
Yes, I agree with you. The only differece between the 2 are the main tie off knots. The one from Baiardo has both knots tie off on 1 direction while M140 has 1 up and 1 down for id purpose. both uses Bg65 blue. So when I was testing the racquet, after 3 or 4 switches, you really can not tell which is which till you stop and look at the knots.
Sorry, it is more of my objective feeling than actual test of many people. I agree with you that I should have more people to test except I had to deliver 1 of the racquet (NS500) last night. It was just a quick test when opportunity was there. It would not be nice for me to string up 2 identical racquets when someone order them and string up 1 on M140 while 1 on Baiardo without telling the person. Then ask for opinion later. That is the true blind test.
Oh I'm not saying the test was bad or that it shouldn't have been done. It's nice to see an hypothesis that the stringing machine can impact one's performance. I can only applaud you for actually taking the time to try it and post the results here.
if the results are to be trusted. that might mean that it agrees with my theory that a more consistent tension on every pull results in a more repulsive stringbed.
or conversely, the interference from inconsistent tensioning results in a less repulsive stringbed.
I will say this.
1) with ECP, 1 pull and done. With drop weight, ~25% need to adjust and re-pull to get near level.
2) i am guessing the string tension is not exactly the same when 1 pull vs 2 pull to get to same level.
3) fly clamps is a suspect regarding the lower tension pitch.
I just got a Klippermate m140 and I have no idea how to start! Would a kind soul here please point me in the right direction?
There are instructions right on the first page of this thread.
If you have read it but still don't know what to do, you'll have to be a little bit more specific
here is a good start!
Ok, after a 5-6 hour session trying to string 1 racket, I have finally completed my first stringing! It was tough trying to work from no experience whatsoever. I tried watching the Youtube vid too but following that method I could not even get the right B1 string to come out. So I gave another shot at the method used in the Klippermate manual.
I did however weave the crosses wrong a few times (i.e. top-bottom) so I would say it's a 50% success!
kwun, watching the instructional video again, I noticed that the right B1 string even before stringing is already sticking out. But why? Is it wrapped around the handle? And is this so that the string can be tensioned after tensioning and clamping left B1?
If you listen while you watch the video, you would hear me say, "because of starting method, youcan only pre-weave 1/2 of the mains". Also, you pay attention, you will notice that there are grove I made to the head holding plate so I can insert string throu gromments easier.
I will take some picture and show you how to start without using starting pin so you can pre-weave most of the mains.
I've watched your video at least 5 times. I think I lack the basic understanding of how the machine works which is why I'm so slow at picking it up.
Hey. It's been a while. Are you a professional stringer now? If yes, how did you get into it?
I'm asking because I might buy this cheap stringining machine to give it a try.
I'm wondering how many dozen of hours it needs to get a successful string job in an acceptable time (< 1 hour).
Apologies, I did not see your reply before today. I'm far from a professional stringer. I've done maybe >20 string jobs. I'll try to summarize my experience:
Stringing in general:
-Snapped strings on 2 separate occasions (1. BG80 just snapped on me when tensioning for no obvious reason and 2. Snapped BG65 when I inserted a paper clip into a shared hole to create space - yes this is stupid)
-Depending on how much you pay for stringing in your locality, you can save quite a bit of money doing it yourself. This also means that you can afford to experiment with different strings and this is exactly what I've done - I've tried strings from about 5 different brands. The variety can be quite fun.
-It can be some extra cash for you too if people trust your stringing and get you to do it for them
-It is quite a rewarding experience to play with a racket that you do yourself. Hearing the crisp sound when you hit the shuttle, nothing beats that.
-It takes time to learn the best methods, the best knots etc. On a good day, I can take ~40mins for one racket. Some days I take 1-2 hours. But more recently I've seen the time slowly decreasing - which comes from the little experience. I doubt I can ever get to about 20mins - the Klippermate is a manual drop weight machine after all.
The machine in general:
-Seems to be reasonably well built.
-However, my machine is starting to rust quite a bit. But that could be my own fault. I'm thinking of applying WD40 to it and giving it a good clean.
WD40 is OK except the string gripper. Break cleaner is best for that part. Acetone is next.
I believe cooking oil is a very safe choice. Just need to do a good clean up afterward.