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Klipper M140 Stringing Instruction

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by silentheart, Jun 6, 2007.

  1. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    OK, What did I miss this time?:confused:
    PM me.
    Gone sleeping.
     
  2. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Personally, I use 17ft (main) and 16 ft (cross) for any job about 20lbs. I agree that you might need a bit extra for main, if you job is below 18lbs, and is on an iso racket.

    Listen to master SH, practice on old racket with junk strings with low tension (20lbs or so). After several demo runs, you will greatly reduce the risk to damage the string and/or racket during the process. ;)
     
  3. illusionistpro

    illusionistpro Regular Member

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    im not exactly sure if im following this right but i believe it says string and tension mains 1-9 then string to 11 and then back to 10, and tension 10. Using this method does the 11th main (outside ones) ever get tensioned?
     
  4. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    1) Yes, you do a double pull (ie pull 2 strings at 1 time) You can not tension the 11th and use fly clamp to clamp main 9 and main 11 and string the main 10.
    2) many of us suggest to add 1 extra lb when you pull that last main string to prevent tension loss on the tie off.
     
  5. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    Master SH, is it possible to use the key ring technique for clamping the 11th?

     
  6. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    In theory, Yes. In practical, you will see the 11th main will loose tension if you use key ring method and it actually is better and easier to tension 10 and 11 main in one pull with additional 1 or 2 lb tension.
     
  7. illusionistpro

    illusionistpro Regular Member

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    just clarifying, when you say pull 10 and 11 in one, you mean, leave your clamp on 8/9, string around to 11th main and back through 10, and then tension both 10 and 11 in one pull there, clamp and tie. Additionally doesnt prestringing work the same, as long as you dont try to move your 8/9 main clamp when you get there?
     
    #47 illusionistpro, Jul 3, 2007
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2007
  8. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    1) Yes, what you said is correct.
    2) I am not sure if I understand that you are asking about prestringing and clamp on 8/9
    3) The instruction I put up is the recommended method by Klipper USA. They did not recommend prestringing for beginner. I don't know why. It might be easier once you know how to string a racquet then learn how to prestring. They just think it is not necessary for prestringing instruction.
     
  9. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    The M140 was originally designed as a tennis machine, therefore, the distance between the posts to the gripper is longer than normal. If pre-string, and working with low tension, you need even more extra length of the string to work.

    Also, as this is a 2 point machine, the problem of side supports making going through side gromments (especially the shared ones) is very much reduced. Therefore, the benefit for pre-string is minimal. :rolleyes:
     
  10. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Actually, I think the "key ring" method should work better than you expected. As M140 is a drop weight machine, the small % of tension loss on 11th main, should be made up when you tension 10th main. However, the reason I used "double pull" instead of the "key ring" method, is you can very much get the same result, but save 1 pulling/clamping step.

    If using double pull method, I suggest to use 2 flying clamps to clamp. 1st one on 9 and 10, and 2nd on 10 and 11. Also, before clamping, let the leveler rest a bit longer, as you are pulling 2 pieces.
     
  11. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Agree with LB and thank you for the follow up.
     
  12. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Yes, it's correct. Leave the flying clamp on 8th and 9th main, while string around and pulling 11th and 10th in 1 shot. Then, it's better to use 2 clamps (1st on 9th and 10th, 2nd on 10th and 11th) to reduce the tension loss, then tie the knots.
     
  13. illusionistpro

    illusionistpro Regular Member

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    master sh thanks again so much for the great tutorial. This should be the go-to thread for anyone beginning stringing with a machine that doesnt have fixed clamps.

    I was thinking however about your first few steps. It seems it would be faster and just as efficient if you started with the string through a1 and b1 on both sides and one side clamped to the starting pin. From there you tension the other main, clamp the two mains together, release the tensioner and continue to 2nd main non pin side. Once that main is tensioned move the clamp and then go back to the main attached from the starting pin and continue with your instructions from there. I find this in theory should save a step and eliminate a bit of a funky start up as well as double tensioning that pin attached main. it's a bit hard to understand so i'll attach a simple illustration tell me if im wrong but i think this will save a step.
     

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    #53 illusionistpro, Aug 6, 2007
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2007
  14. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Thank you for the advice. I agree with your points. Your method will work. Only draw back is the 2 center mains will have about 1~2 lb lower tension because you are doing a double pull and you will have to re-pull the 1st right main to get it close to right tension anyway. Yes, it is about 2 min faster.
    PS, I follow Klipper's original instruction.
     
  15. illusionistpro

    illusionistpro Regular Member

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    does the klipper original instruction have a 1-2 lb tension loss in the mains as well?
     
  16. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    No, usually less than that because the left main is pulled by itself while right main is under tension already. The right main is pulled again when you remove the starting pin. The truth is, you can't really tell. Specially if you have the U shape grommet.
     
  17. alan06

    alan06 Regular Member

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    Silentheart,

    Which method is safer for stringing the last main....is it the 2 pulls on the 10main just like the method yonex recommended? or just 1 pull tension on the 11main?
     
  18. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    1) Do you mean 10main means 10th main from the center and 11main the 11th main from the center? Or 10main is the 10th main you pull and 11main is the 11th main you pulled?
    2) Is 2 pull means pulling 2 string at 1 time?
    3) Yonex do not specify how you finish the last 2 mains. It is what ever that is easy for you.
    4) I usually pull main 9, string the last and pull the last 2 string at the same time with 2 lb increase.
    I hope this answer your question.
     
  19. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    I agree that the addtional 2lbs can effectively balance out the possible tension loss when doing the knots. However, I do it a little bit differently. After tension and clamping main #9, I string and tension main #11 (per yonex string pattern), however, I don't clamp it (mostly, impossible to clamp as #9 and #11 are far apart). Then, string and tension main #10, and let the leveler sit for a few more seconds. Then, use 2 flying clamp method, as the 1st one on #9 and 10, 2nd one on #10 and 11. Then, start to make the knots at gromment B8. Of course, there could be tension loss, but should be very much minimized already.
     
  20. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Thank you for sharing your great suggestion, LB.
     

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