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Klipper M140 Stringing Instruction

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by silentheart, Jun 6, 2007.

  1. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    The reason for not changing the tension is, I string with "lazy" style as well. Once it's set, I just use it, don't want to change it.:D
     
  2. alan06

    alan06 Regular Member

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    You're absolutely right! Thanks for your suggestion. So If I were to string my main regularly at 24lbs, then the last pull of 2 strings at the same time should be 26lbs. But wouldn't 26lbs be too extreme on the racket? especially you mentioned 25lbs or under would be a safe range for using the klipper machine.
     
  3. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    For first few racquet you do, stay under 25lb. aAter you feel you are more experienced, go higher. The reason for why the you string main 11 first then main10 is because when you pull the last 2 together, the force is acting on the top and lower frame at the same time and it is safe to do so.
    Good luck.
     
  4. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    The safe range is just in theory. If you string main @ 24lbs, then you need to do 26lb for all the crosses anyway. Therefore, the effect on the last 2 mains could be ignored. ;)
     
  5. nttcar

    nttcar Regular Member

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    I am the beginner and have some question about the starting string. one thing I got confused, do we need to tie the start string(B2).... if not once you remove the starting pin and remove the clamp, will it lose tension
     
  6. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    I am not sure what are you asking here you do not tie any string untill you are done with mains.
     
  7. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    You only remove the clamps, when the string is being tensioned. Therefore, the gripper is holding one "holding" the tension for you. You only release the gripper, after you clamp it back on. ;)
     
  8. KooGuy

    KooGuy Regular Member

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    In my opinion this thread should be in sticky section since it provides very clear instruction on how to string badminton rackets using drop wt., especially for beginner.
     
  9. ray_mond

    ray_mond Regular Member

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    I have some questions after stringing my racket. I was taught the exact some way as how you strung your racket in this guide, but with less details. My coach told me to discover my own style.

    Some of the problems I had were:
    Where to end the mains and crosses
    How to end the main and crosses
    What knot to use
    And how to make a strong starting now
    Where to start for the crosses

    I was strining a cheap oval racket, and I had no idea where to start for the cross and where to end for the mains. Also, I was told to skip a hole at the end of the mains when you alternate outwards. Why is this?

    Thanks
     
  10. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    1) according to Yonex string chart now with 2 piece method, main-> start from center and tide off at throat 8 grommet (B8). cross->tide starting knot at throat 6 grommet(B6). start from throat 9 grommet(B9). last main is top 7 (A7). Tide off at top 5 grommet (A5)
    2) tie double hitch knot is fine to end main and cross
    3) tie double hitch knot is fine to end main and cross
    4) look at instruction 1) also search on starting knot.

    5) look up Yonex string pattern. go to www.yonexusa.com you will find the official yonex stringing pattern. why skip b11? it is to reduce stress.
     
  11. ray_mond

    ray_mond Regular Member

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    ah okay thanks SH.. a couple more questions after stringing some more questions.. it was on a stringway drop weight machine.. the one where you just put the string in and the machine automatically pulls.. (the bar doesnt have the tension indicators on it)..

    i noticed that the klipper doesnt have any fixed clamps, is this why you have the starting pin?

    another problem i had was that my stringing tutor told me i had slightly warped my ti 10, when i worked from the middle out, alternating from each side. so basically i started in the middle, and tensioned a main on each side to maintain balance. is this correct? i've heard that if i complete one side first, that the racket will warp for sure?

    also, if i decide to skip the 2nd last bottom or top cross, how does this work? will I still have 22 cross?

    and i also have a problem with tying off the knots, it seems like i have quite a bit of tension loss. i dont like the idea of jamming the awl into the grommet before tying, or tension 2 extra pounds, or hand pulling on the knot before tying. what should i do to prevent tension loss, or is that not possible?

    thanks
     
  12. ray_mond

    ray_mond Regular Member

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    sorry for double post, but i was using a stringway ml-100. how does the pull system vary from this machine to the klipper? i've used other drop weight machines that have the rectangular thing to pull
     
  13. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    1) Yes and no. Klipper M140 do not have fix clamp. That is why they use starting pin method. However, even if you have fix clamp, starting pin method is better than starting clamp method IMHO.
    2) Yes, if you use 2 pt mounting machine, make sure you alt between mains. I usually string 2 mains on right then 2 mains on left. People also use 1 main right, 2 mains left then 2 mains right. That is good too. If you finish 1 sid ethat work on the other side, it will put too much stress on the unstrung side and yes, warping frame happen and you might crack the frame.
    3) I will not recommend either method because they are special pattern unless player requested it. If you do so, you will not have 22 crosses unless you add additional one some where based on Yonex pattern.
    4) with fly clamps, it is nearly impossible without tension loss on the final tie off string. To min the tension loss without any of the method you metion, you need to clamp the final fly clamp before tide off as close to frame as possible. THis way, tension loss will be min. However, it also will damage the paint job. It is your call...

    Good luck
     
  14. bluecraze07

    bluecraze07 Regular Member

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    Great thread. This thread is clearing up a lot of confusions for me. Thanks a lot. Should be a sticky!
     
  15. Distanc3

    Distanc3 Regular Member

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    hey guys i purchase the exact machine the original SH one ;)

    racquets i have restrung so far
    20mx22c victor superti12
    22mx24c capac nano power 900
    26mx28c sotx woven 7i

    so far so good, tho the woven is a lil wide =T
     
  16. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    Add 0.6 lbs on the cross to make it 28.6 lbs :D

     
  17. Distanc3

    Distanc3 Regular Member

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    Dear master Pete, i've done the the 26mx28c with juss 2 hi-qua clamps, is it sufficient since i have the klippermate?
     
  18. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    1. for high tension, better use 10% rather than 2lbs
    2. HQ clamps tends to result in more tension loss for cross, due to the gap is narrower than the cross gaps. Once the cross was tensioned when bented, it will loss tension once clamp is released, and straighten up.
     
  19. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    As per GrandMaster LB, use two to three Yonex flying clamps for the cross :).
     
  20. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Second Master LB said. I feel 2 Yonex clamps for cross at 26 lb+ is enough.
     

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