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Lead Tape Placement

Discussion in 'Badminton Rackets / Equipment' started by TrunkZ69, Sep 4, 2001.

  1. TrunkZ69

    TrunkZ69 Regular Member

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    hey guyz.. i where should i put about 4 grams of lead tape on my racket? it's a 3U MP 77. I want it to be more head heavy. Im guessing if i put enough, hpoefully ill be head heavy as a ISO800 at least possibly more. WHere would the best place(s) to put it be, liek somewhere where it won't cause harm to the racket and will maximize this effect the most. Ok, thank you bye.
     
  2. LL

    LL Guest

    You should place the lead tape evenly on the head, so that not one side of the racquet head is heavier than the other. You should cut the strips thin enough to fit on both sides of the inner frame, on either side of the strings. Maybe 3 oclock and 9 oclock.

    LL
     
  3. Mag

    Mag Moderator

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    If it's head-heavyness you're after, then obviously the further away from the handle you apply the tape the more effect it will have. I'd suggest you try putting 1+1 g at the 12 o'clock position, on each side of the strings. If that doesn't give you the desired effect then add more at 3 and 9 o'clock as LL suggests. Mind you, the racquet wasn't constructed with this in mind. Modifying the balance too much might risk the frame... (Not that I've ever had any problems, and 4 grams should be OK)
     
  4. Tim

    Tim Guest

    I would suggest 11:00 and 1:00
     
  5. TrunkZ69

    TrunkZ69 Regular Member

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    tim, i really like your 11 and 1 o'clock idea, thx. from what the otehrs said, it would give me alot of power and maybe won't be as bad for the frame if i put it there. i might even bring it down to 2 and 10 o'clock. ok, thx for all the imput guys. im gonna get my lead tape by the end of the week and do it.
     
  6. joseph

    joseph Guest

    why don't you just get a 2U racquet originally? i have a 2U, wanna trade?
     
  7. shaun

    shaun Regular Member

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    i have a 2u! its great! 3u's are too fragile! bad experience with them :(
    but i tried an mp77 3u strung at 24lb and it had no probs...hmm lol
     
  8. TrunkZ69

    TrunkZ69 Regular Member

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    well..... weight is a partial problem, the main one is head heaviness.
     
  9. Jeff L

    Jeff L Guest

    i saw a guy at SJSU with lead teap everywhere, i dont think he knew what he was doing. It was on top from 11, all the way to 1. Then there was some even on the strings, twords the T-joint area. It looks strange too me, it look like he over did it because on top you can see it over lapping eachother
     
  10. Jeff L

    Jeff L Guest

    oh and btw

    someone sell my american arse a 2U mp77 :) the local store carries 2u mp100's and 55's, but why not 77 :( !!
     
  11. fhchiang

    fhchiang Regular Member

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    anyone tried scraping off as much as as possible from the handle to make the handle and racquet lighter ?


    and.. the lighter the handle is.. means the heavier the head is.......


    anyone tried this>?
     
  12. bigredlemon

    bigredlemon Regular Member

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    yes,
    but the handle only weighs so much, and the if it's thinned too much, you'll need to add overgrip, which negates the savings.
     
  13. fhchiang

    fhchiang Regular Member

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    bigredlemon............



    i'm not scraping the whole surface... rather just making tiny holes on it......
     
  14. bigredlemon

    bigredlemon Regular Member

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    drilling holes sound like an interesting idea... but keep in mind this: wood is different from metals in that wood is composed of fibers. Holes are drilled in steel to lose weight and this doesn't cause signifcant problems because the stress can be transferred around the holes. For fiberours material, once the fiber is broken then it dosn't contribute strength at all. If you drill onto and thorugh the handle with a couple of holes, as in straight down looking at the raccquet face, you'll save about 10% weight but lose 50% strength. If drill up through the buttcap, and do a perfect drill, then the percent of weight loss will be close to the strength loss. But as anywood who's worked with wood can tell you, it's almost impossible to do a perfect drill down the grain because you'll get splinters and cracks. A single badly-placed splinter or crack could make the handle useless.
     

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