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pro's pro shuttle express instruction manual

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by m451h, Dec 17, 2010.

  1. m451h

    m451h Regular Member

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    Hi everybody,

    i have recently decided to enter the stringing market and purchased a pro's pro shuttle express...HOWEVER, the manual was missing so i phoned the seller and found out that the manual is no longer avaliable :(

    I have watched endless Youtube videos and read tonnes of posts but no luck, so i have joined badminton central, for the hope that there is someone out there in the badminton world that can help me set the machine up or send me a manual if it is no longer used..

    any comments will be appreciated

    thanks
     
  2. mat_patsy

    mat_patsy Regular Member

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    I'm assuming it came in the handy carry case and when you took it out it didn't look quite right?

    If so then you need to do the following:

    1. On the main shaft of the machine there is a toothed section that the crank works on. Take the end foot (the blue bit) off nearest this toothed part by removing the 2 allan studs.

    2. The racket clamp will be screwed to the main shaft, upside down and in the middle of the shaft. You need to remove this from the shaft by taking out the 2 allen studs.

    3. Turn the main shaft over so it stands properly on the one remaining foot. On the shaft, near to the end by the foot are two holes - this is where the clamp needs to be fitted to, and obviously the shaft is now the right way up, stood on its remianing foot and the clamp thus goes on top. secure it on with the same 2 allan studs.

    4. Slide the crank onto the end where you removed the foot - it is not completely obvious but there are some lugs on the crank that you will see help it to stay on the shaft with the crank teeth meshing with the toothed part of the shaft. It can only go on one way.

    5. Replace the end foot and secure.

    6. Push the crank handle onto the crank assembly.

    7. Screw the four plastic mounting fittings to the top of the mounting bracket/turntable.

    8. The remaining two bits are the poles that sit at the top and bottom of the inside of the racket head. take off the black knurled nut and push the block into the channel on the turntable and re-fit the nut on the end - do not tighten yet until you fit your racket. The second of these is the same but on the opposite side.

    9. To fit your racket place it over the top of the two upright pegs, they should sit between the centre two grommets - dead centre of the racket head. Tighten them up just so the racket doesn't slide to and fro - not over tight. Then clamp it down with the two silver clamps that should be the last two items of kit that you have, again, not too tight.

    10. Finally, wind in the side clamps to keep the racket sturdy in all 6 points, again, not over tight.

    You are ready to go!!

    If you're still struggling i could post some pics to explain further?:)
     
  3. m451h

    m451h Regular Member

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    thanks mat_patsy, your a life saver :) ..i have done everything you have told me to do and now the express is upright with the clamp and crank.

    just a couple of questions, mainly on the crank:

    1) the leaver that moves the cranks sometimes does not catch the teeth on the shaft and just goes round and round,(is this normal) if not do i need to move the crank down (if so how do i do it)

    2)how do i change the tension? eg 22lbs to 28lbs

    3) what does the knob on the end of the crank do, with the numbers 0,1 and 2?

    thanks :)
     
  4. _Rav_

    _Rav_ Regular Member

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    1) the crank can be adjusted by loosening the 4 lugs (marked 1 2 3 & 4 in my pic) with the square plates that grip the rail, let the gear sit in at the right level and re tighten with the top plates just touching the top of the gear as in the second pic. The crank mount is one bit about the machine that i'm not totally happy with, since it is hard to get it set up just right without it wobbling too much.

    s1.jpg

    s2.jpg

    2) turn the knob at the end of the crank, marked 0, 1 & 2 until the corresponding scale reads the desired tension. The range 11-39 is in lbs, the other is in kg.

    3) see 2 :D

    A couple of other things that i have found with mine ... when i got it the brake wasn't adjusted properly, so the crank would slide up and down when it should have been locked out, and the fly off lever would hit the plastic case with a loud thwack. You can adjust it if needed by removing the soft rubber on the lever and the 3 screws on the pastic crank cover. Then you must adjust the nut on the end of the bolt so that the lever doesn't spring all the way back, i actually put two nuts on the bolt to lock it in place as it kept slipping, be careful not to over tighten the bolt or you might shear it off.

    Also, on the top and bottom support posts, i found it a good idea to put a little piece of overgrap around the metal to prevent the frame getting dented (i found this out the hard way).

    If you need photos of the brake adjustment let me know and i'll take mine apart to show you.
     
  5. m451h

    m451h Regular Member

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    Thanks rav, the machine is complete...now all i need is some strings then i can get going...LOOOL :)
     
  6. coachgary

    coachgary Regular Member

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    Try www.watdon.com

    They usually have some very cheap 200mtr rolls and 10mtr sets so you can practice till you're hearts content before you move onto £50 per roll.

    Regards

    Gary
     
  7. m451h

    m451h Regular Member

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    well i have just finished my first ever racket and it took me 7hrs with interval breaks..

    some mistakes and problems i incured was;

    1) incorrect stringing pattern
    2) the mains at all different tension and some crosses at different tension, this was because most of the time the automatic handbrake did not click in.
    3) the handle to move the crack was a big problem as the teeth would not move..

    are these common mistakes and how can i improve the next time i do a racket?

    my racket was strung at 26lbs with NBG95 yonex 4 knot method,up to down..
     
  8. m451h

    m451h Regular Member

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    oh and also merry christmas and a happy new year :)
     
  9. _Rav_

    _Rav_ Regular Member

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    2 sounds like you were pulling with too much string between the racket and the gripper, and getting to the end of the rail before it locked out. You need to make sure that the grippers are as close to the racket as possible before winding the crank, especially at higher tensions. There is a little knob on the slide rail that you pull and turn, which allows the gripper to get closer, but it will then be in the way of the turntable when it rotates. I use it for the last mains and cross where i'm usually running out of string.

    3 could be that the brake was still on, gotta make sure that you set the lock out lever back to the cocked position before doing anything else. it's a good habit to get into to always do things in a certain order, so pull (lock out) - clamp - unlock brake/cock -release string - return head to the racket - repeat. Either that or the teeth still aren't properly aligned, or that one of the square plates has twisted and is digging in to the gear rail.
     
  10. ghooga

    ghooga Regular Member

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    I wonder if you guys have any problems with the tension lever? Mine seems to have worn out after about 5 months.
     
  11. CovinaStringer

    CovinaStringer Regular Member

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    What kind of problems are you having? It might need to be readjusted.
     
  12. ghooga

    ghooga Regular Member

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    Hi, if you look at the pics above, my tension lever which is labelled # 4 is sort of worn out. I can't complete my pull in order to get the desired tension.
     
  13. CovinaStringer

    CovinaStringer Regular Member

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    The crank handle? There is a lock screw that holds in in place. I've never seen those things wear out.
     
  14. Alexccs

    Alexccs Regular Member

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    Can you take a picture of the worn out part? we can help you better when we can see how it look like. So no guessing.
     
  15. ghooga

    ghooga Regular Member

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    Hi, it has nothing to do with the lock screw. It's actually this:
     

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  16. CovinaStringer

    CovinaStringer Regular Member

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    Here is a picture from a Gamma, there is a screw that locks the crank handle (on the right side).
    [​IMG]
     
  17. _Rav_

    _Rav_ Regular Member

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    The Pro's Pro is simpler than that, it's like a ratchet/socket connection with a sprung ball bearing to lock it in. I like the screw idea though.
     
  18. CovinaStringer

    CovinaStringer Regular Member

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    All the other cranks I've seen were directly connected to the disc. You don't see many Pro's Pro in the US, though I wish they sold them here than Eagnas.
     
  19. ghooga

    ghooga Regular Member

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    Unfortunately, my Pro's Pro doesn't have a screw to lock the crank handle and that socket is clearly worn out. Just emailed the pics to Arfaian hoping to get a replacement part from them. In the meantime, am also in the market exploring other stringing machines :)
     
  20. ghooga

    ghooga Regular Member

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    I wonder if Pro's Pro is any better than Eagnas...
     

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