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rate my string job!

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by DuckFeet, Nov 12, 2013.

  1. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    probably for newbs to learn from, no showing off now! I'll start if I can post a picture.

    same as over clocking PC, small steps! I couldn't find frame specs so guessed it could handle the same as my ns200. 6 point pros pros machine, 26lbs if I have it set up right.

    titaniumy!

    my rating 2/10. some success, lesson learned but ultimately no playable result AND a Broken racket.
     

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  2. hew128

    hew128 Regular Member

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    #2 hew128, Nov 12, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013
  3. bobbinbette

    bobbinbette Regular Member

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    Even if the racket is only rated for 24lbs, 26 lbs should not break modern graphite rackets unless it already had a crack.

    Are you using a Pro's Pro crank machine? If so, did you calibrate the tension head with an electronic fishing scale?
    The reason I ask is that I also have a Pro's Pro crank and the tension head calibration was much higher than what it was supposed to be when I received it.
     
  4. dbswansea

    dbswansea Regular Member

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    I've got one of those racquets laying around, its a £25 off the shelf from a discounted sports shop Carlton.
     
  5. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    pro's pro challenger 1 drop weight. calibrated by W&D and the string pings at expected frequency.

    I had the mounts in the wrong place . also think bottom up would have worked better. I was surprised it went though.

    second job survived, took about 3 hours! pros pro tour 75.
     
  6. bobbinbette

    bobbinbette Regular Member

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    Very nice! I used to have a drop weight klippermate and I think resulting stringjob is much better than crank machines. Oh well, now I'll just upgrade to a Wise2086 in the future =P.
     
  7. phaaam

    phaaam Regular Member

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    It snapped at a shared hole eh. My side supports are usually just above or below the shared hole, so that they don't get in the way. Sometimes, the support would be right at the shared hole and it's almost impossible sneaking one of those in. It also gives the required support for that area.

    Also make sure the supports have good contact with the frame, as much surface area in contact as possible.

    What did it feel like when it broke? Good thing it didn't splinter everywhere.
     
  8. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    That silver one is not cracked all the way through so I banged a cable tie on it and will try 20lbs. I just heard a crack when it went. no drama.

    I was going to do a "The Good, the Bad and The Ugly" but the pictures are too large AND focused on the floor :( Well pleased with how my MX60 turned out though. 90 minutes tensioning! I hope it's ok to do the upper knot in a6 rather than a5. with no pictures I'll give myself 9/10 - could be quicker but I had plenty of spare time anyway. had a quick knock today and it's dropped the first 2lbs (60Hz)

    The other racket was a rush job in the dark, crossed strings, grommit half fell out. Not great. 2/10 as it works but I wouldn't accept it/give it to anyone else. Also I didn't do the yonex "miss one and double back" on the top two crosses and I couldn't get the clamp on the top one so it's very slack.

    Album is here is interested but it's a terrible camera on my phone that wont focus right.
    http://s645.photobucket.com/user/DuckFeetOi/library/badminton?sort=3&page=1
     
  9. Trinhity

    Trinhity Regular Member

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    I'm pretty sure this is caused by the mounting and the pattern being used.

    Feel free to contact me at sTRINHgs@gmail.com if you are interested to discuss.
     
  10. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    I can't help but be amused that one of your very first string jobs is a Meteor, one of the most difficult and overly-complicated patterns there is:). You can put that knot in either A5 or A6 - always use the hole closest to the last string to minimize the string that's outside the frame. (Or do what I do and put another cross through A6 and tie it at A5.)

    Start from a 10/10, and deduct a point for any of the following:

    frame not symmetrical L/R,
    knot falling into grommet
    misweave

    and half a point for any crossovers.
     
  11. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    +1 for different difficult frame, so 11/10! also my tie off IS closer to last cross.

    its my favorite, it had bad strings. I had to do it! but thanks for kind comment. I must have done an easy version of it :)

    I watched my stringer a few times. that helped a lot.
     
  12. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    frame distortion? oh! I need to read up on that as my 2/10 looks wonky.

    thanks also to trinhity, I'll email to discuss!
     
  13. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    this wobbly frame - do i leave it to see if it snaps as it's a spare and I want to see how these strings do, or cut it right away as it's actually quite a nice racket? it's only very slightly 'D' shaped as one top mounting point wasn't making contact, now rectified thanks to the helpful man at W and D.

    what is the general consensus on starting knots? I think I'll have to watch a few more of Kwun's videos on 2 piece stringing as the next job is a Carlton Vapour trail which says do 2PBU.
     
  14. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    I have developed one of my own, but you should aim for

    a) large size, and
    b) as little "grip" as possible on the anchor string

    because you want the sher size of the knot to keep it in place, not friction on the anchor string; the latter can snap a main, and you're back to square one.
     
  15. _Rav_

    _Rav_ Regular Member

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    I used to use a starting knot, but these days i prefer to use a starting clamp on the outside of the frame. You pull the second cross and clamp it to the first (assuming a flying clamp, if not, clamp as normal). Then pull the third cross and clamp, and finally go back to the first cross, then clamp and tie off with your finishing knot of choice (i like the wilson pro knot, once you get the hang of it it's quick, neat and doesn't slip).

    The advantage of that method over a starting knot is that you pull both the last two cross strings independantly, and not together with the tension loss you'd get pulling through a grommet. If you have fixed clamps you could pull one cross against a starting knot and clamp i suppose, but then you could also pull against the other fixed clamp and use a finishing knot.

    Ultimnately it's down to which method you can do the best on a consistant basis.
     
  16. gy79bc

    gy79bc Regular Member

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    It looks like you may clamped too hard on one of side side support clamp.
    You should just tighten it to the point there is no movement, that's enough.

    Also, on newer iso shape Yonex racket, there is one in-out shared hole and out-in shared hole which difficult to work with. Out-in (lead from outside edge to inside frame) is easier than from in-out hole, you have to find gap direction and use needle to expand a little bit, do not blindly use the string mover to forcefully pull the tensioned string. For the bottom shared hole, you can delay the vertical string tensioning until you get cross strign past them. However, all these tricks only work in pre-weaving style. I always use two knots string, pre-weaving, then tension. The result string job is better than 4 knots method. One thng to note is that the maximum I tensioned is 27 lb. Even though, I never found my string job has deformed frame, also tension pounds is also at intended level.

    For 72 hole yonex racket, the easiest is to use single pack string which is long enough for cross string to cover all top shared holes in pre-weaving.
     
  17. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    22x22 Carlton ZM62. looks a bit round so I should have done at least +1 on the cross but we'll see how it plays.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Next time you do a racket, check the contact between the 6 o'clock support and the frame after you've pulled the two middle mains - the frame often sinks in slightly at the top as the loadspreader takes up the strain. If there's a gap, adjust the 6 o'clock and carry on.
     
  19. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    OK, makes sense. about halfway through the crosses I noticed the top mount was loose. I think its close enough to be usable but sweetspot might be weird.
     
  20. DuckFeet

    DuckFeet Regular Member

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    so you alternate sides? I copied my stringer and (I think he does this...) do 3 one side, 4 the other, then alternate two pulls each side. I'll try your way as in not sure if paranoid or if my meteor is slightly rounder one side. not noticeable when tracing round the frame on paper though.
     

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