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Stringing @ 30lbs for a beginners first try

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by diverdan, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. LazyBuddy

    LazyBuddy Regular Member

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    Start low and slowly, and work your way up. Yes, you need to "waste" some cheap strings, but that's still a better bet than a $150 higher end racket. Also, when you practice, you do not have to finish the entire job, therefore, you can always re-use the string if you do not tie the knots each time.

    When I first started, I actually bought a $10 racket with a few packs of cheap string. Total of no more than $25-30 range, and enough for me to do a good number (10 to 15) demo runs.
     
  2. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Get a £20 reel from mybadmintonstore and chew it up with test runs. You'll get 22 rackets out of 200 m.
     
  3. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    All good advice. So I have bought a Pros pro Challenger 1 as I wanted the constant pull the drop weight gives and I am not rich. I am also an armchair stringer so not overly worried about time. Could you guys recommend some video tutorials? I have found the MX80 80 hole video uploaded by Kwun which is great but I would also like to string the convential way as well. Are there any specialist tools you would suggest I got for stringing over 30lbs?
     
  4. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    First of all, get Michal Chudek's side supports and the Load Spreader from MBS.

    They're probably the main things you wanna get they help you and your racket out so much when stringing.
     
  5. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    They look the db's. Where would I get them from ckyew? I have checked out google and found a couple of old threads on them but not a specific shop selling them.

    Also is it essential to get the badminton fixed clamps for the machine? I know you can't use tennis clamps for the cross strings but have seen people use flying clamps instead. Is it easier to use fixed clamps?
     
  6. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    I dont think Michal has a shop, I got mine by messaging him through here. His nickname is Michal. And this is his profile:

    http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/member.php/15028-Michal

    I would advise going with fixed clamps, but do get one or 2 flying clamps in case you would like to practice doing both ways or needing it for whatever reason later on.

    If you bought your machine from W&D, I'm quite sure they will come with their universal clamps which is suitable for both Tennis and Badminton, just a quick question.

    How many prongs does your clamps have?
     
  7. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    It's got 3 prongs. Thanks for the recommendation for the side supports.
     
  8. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    You probably want to get the universal ones which has 5 prongs.. I'm pretty sure W&D will exchange them for you if you bought the machine from them if you ask nicely.
     
  9. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    I bought the machine 2nd hand so will sell the tennis clamps on ebay and buy new badminton clamps.
     
  10. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    You got your machine from Pete?
     
  11. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    No. His name is David.
     
  12. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    I decided to get a new machine as the 2nd hand one had a few problems. It's the Pro's Pro Warrior 1. Ive got the dual clamps and Michals side supports as well. I have been looking at some of the different stringing patterns on the BC playlist and thought I would start by doing the Haribito 76 hole pattern. It looks straight forward and technical enough to make a few mistakes and to make full use of the fixed clamps and to get used to the machine. A lot of my rackets have been strung using two pieces but I wanted to steer away from this technique as it seems pretty simple and I am building up to string my MX80's using the 80 hole pattern. Will let you know if I can conquer 30lbs by the end of week.
     
  13. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    Lol. What happened to the 300 quid budget then??:p
     
  14. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    Well sometimes buying used equipment has its pitfalls. At least this way I get a 3 year warranty. I probably spent £300-350 which includes new fixed clamps, side supports, tension calibrator, starting clamp, bent nose pliers, snips, string mover and 100m of string. Just waiting for it to arrive now.
     
  15. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    Just to say thanks to the guys who suggested buying some cheap string to practice with. I owe you all a pint. I've done a whopping 5 restrings. It's been interesting with a very steep learning curve.

    My main issues are that I tend to miss a cross weave and only find out when I come to thread a shared hole. It's a real pain in the ... ! I'm sure I will get better at this over time.

    I have had a few teething problems with the machine. I have had to remove the ratchet system as it is too stiff and doesn't allow the tensioning arm to lower properly. I have also noticed that the fixed clamps sometimes move when the string is released from the tensioning arm. It is only a matter of 5mm. Is this enough to cause concern? I have a feeling it is as 5mm over the whole racket would soon mount up and the desired tension won't be reached. I have been in touch with the supplier so awaiting their recommendation.

    Looking forward to getting to tie a knot :D
     
  16. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    Fixed clamps do move (some) when the tensioner is released and the clamps take the pulled tension of the strings itself. Really good machines probably dont move at all, but for budget machines, some will. But they should be back to its original position when the next string is pulled so it does negates itself out that way.

    But to minimize the movement, do make sure that the slots containing the clamps are tightly screwed onto the base (brake lever) on the rails. That will probably help.

    Good luck^^
     
  17. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    The only time the "slack" in fixed clamp bases matters is with the last string; all other times the movement is countered when the next string is pulled.

    Just make sure the clamp is as close to the frame as possible when tying your knots.
     
  18. Valentinas

    Valentinas Regular Member

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    Hi

    I totally agree with you on the quality of the fixed clamps. On the cheap machines a movement can be significant.

    If the problem is in the base - you need to adjust the locking mechanism so it locks base of a clamp on the rail securely.

    In fixed clam has a play in the middle - it is due to the fact that the hole in the base are too big for the top part of the clamp. But there is a simple way to eliminate that problem - just try to first put the fixed clamp in to the position, then clamp the base, then push and hold the top part of a clamp to the direction the string will pull it after the tension will be released and then clamp the string. It is not the fastest way - but it helps you to be consistent with every pull.


    Hope this helps


    Valentinas
     
  19. diverdan

    diverdan Regular Member

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    I've sent the machine back to the supplier as we both think it is substandard in build and assembly. There was too much tweaking on my side for it to be worth the money. I can't fault the supplier in the slightest. They have been really good. They suggested buying a drop weight Premium Stringer. Does anyone have any experience of this machine?
     

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