I was testing my friend's new Pro's Pros Pilot stringing machine and when i used a caibrator to test the tension, the pull was correct but when i released the pull at 27 pounds, it dropped to 14 pounds with the fixed clamp in place. Do you guys think it is the proble with the clamp? Also anyone with the similar machine experience the same thing? This is ridiculous to think that it drops to more than 10 pounds!!!
ya the clamp is moving, but i tightened it and it still moves i checked the base and it doesnt move should he buy another machine? it's frustrating to him now that he knows his stringing jobs have been 10 pounds less!!
so the base is secured. but the vertical part of the clamp that insert into the base isn't secure enough so it moves?
Please provide more info. 1) How much did the clamp move? 1 mm? 2 mm? more? 2) When you say, you tighten the clamps, are you talking about the circular adjustment? Clamp only move when the base is not tighten or released. Or the string will move but the clamp will not move. 3) If it is ProsPro machine, it is very good and it should be OK. If it is a Eagnas machine that is same model as ProsPro. I would question the quality
Sure 1) Probably around 1-2mm, not a huge movement but enough to drop it by 10lbs 2) The base and the circular adjustment is tightened. The string doesnt move, it\s mostly the head of the clamp 3) I dont think it is the machine, most likely its the lamps i speculate that it has something to do with the size of the clamp. i believe the tail of the clamp does not fit perfectly into the vertical part of the base, is it suppose to fit snuggly and tight or is it suppose to be a bit loose so that the clamp and rotate 360?
maybe we have been deceived by all our stringing machines. in fact, when we pull 24lbs, we are actually pulling 15lbs. silentheart and others who have a fancy top model machines, can you do the same experiment to see how much tension is on the string: - after clamping and tensioner engaged - after clamping and tensioner disengaged - after clamping and the next string is tensioned. thanks.
To compensate for the actual and lower tension, please do the following: It's wise to double or triple crank the middle 8 to 10 main strings, if you were to use a lock-out machine; For the WISE head, massage a bit and wait 10 seconds before clamping; Drop weight is similar to the WISE but takes much longer.
To the OP, do you have an electronic tension gauge or spring one? Are you using a lock-out tensioner (crank)?
Sorry, I was busy and bitchy last night. Will do a test tonight on my new machine and take some pictures. No, master Pete, not dirty pictures.
I have a crank, Pro's Pro Pilot. I'm going to make a video and post it to show you how much the tension is lost.
here it is: [video=youtube;MYqaOaS7FxU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYqaOaS7FxU[/video] pay attention to the head of the clamp as i release the crank let me know what you guys think
ok. this is hard to explain. but in gist, you should've put the scale outside the frame, instead of inside. the reason is due to the construction of the scale. the 1-2mm of stretching when you release the clamp, causes a 1-2mm movement of the scale (since the actual string is so short). a 1-2mm travel in the scale is large change in actual tension measured by the scale. however, if you have a full segment of the string, the 1-2mm will be absorbed mostly by the string, which is much more elastic than the scale. therefore, the actual tension drop will be less. to put it in another way, what you are doing here is stretching the scale, and not stretching the string. i hope that makes sense. the video really helps.
what should i do to determine how much the tension drops? i'm sure that after the clamp moves 1-2mm there should be a drop in tension is there a way to stop this from happening?
as i mentioned, put the scale outside the frame. attach one of the scale to a stationary object, a heavy table, a wall, etc. and then the other side go through the grommet of the frame and then outside the other side of the frame. that way it is more accurate with the actual tension drop. as for ways to reduce the drop in tension. not much you can do other than try to increase the dial to compensate for it. also notice that when you tension the next string, you are putting back some tension in the current string. so don't over compensate.
OK, here is what I found. String: BG80 Machine: Wilson Braiado Pic 1) reset scale to 0.00 lb Pic 2) pulled at 24 lb with 10% pre stretch. Shows at 23.77 lb. Pic 3) repulled again with repositioned scale to represent the length of the badminton racquet head. same setting as #2 and showing tension at 23.63 lb Pic 4) tension after clamped with tension head release showing 20.59 lb clamp moved about 1mm (eye balled) Pic 5) repulled with clamp engaged at 24 lb showing 23.46 lb clamp moved back 1mm (eye balled) Pic 6) with tension head released clamp engaged showing 21.56 lb clamp can not tell if moved. Moral of story: yes, the fixed clamp do move a little. The tension does drop by about 2~3 lb depend on how you secure the clamp.
I have noticed 1 more thing. How did Skillz secure the clamp on the other side of the scale? When he engaged the tension head, the clamp on top twisted a little. There is another 3~4 lb lost there. Also the clamp close to the throat drop down a little too. But like Kwun said, it is stretching scale, not the string. Please see my set up and pictures.
To the OP, I see how you tested the tension. I don't put a frame or clamp the string. What I find out is that a good quality crank requires an extra 3 lbs of tension to compensate for the drop in tension over time. For example, suppose your desired reference tension is 25 lbs. You would need to calibrate the crank by adjusting the screw to engage the big tensioner spring the moment you turn the tension setting knob. If you were to graph out tension vs time, a crank loose approximately three pounds within a one minute period. http://206.210.94.83/collaterals/pdf/MG63-5.pdf
