As promised, here is my technique to start mains with only flying clamps. there is no extra tools other than 3 flying clamps and no extra pulls required while minimizing tension loss. comments are welcomed as always.
Nice video. Good camera angle. Clear and straightforward demonstration. (can't believe the hour of the day you posted it!)
Great! Many thanks, kwun One question though, did you have to use two flying clamps as a starting clamp replacement rather than just one? Do you actually prefer the stock flying clamps for the mains to the MBS ones?
yes. i noticed that if i use one flying clamp sometimes it slips. so i use 2 all the time to minimize string damage. as for mains, the orange MBS clamps jaws are too wide. the black MBS clamp is perfect for mains. i only have one of them so i use a combo of the MBS black and the stock Alpha one.
Hi Kwun, for the initial double pull, did you add extra lbs on top of the string's targeted tension to compensate? If so, how much? I do something similar to start the mains with flying clamps. The difference is that I double pull the two mains together ( clamping bottom at the start instead of the top ), albeit adding ~3,4 lbs. Seemed ( by pressing against the tensioned string ) to result in the same tension as single pull.
i don't add extra pounds. and the reason is this. i first do a double pull of M1 and M2. after i clamp, M1 should be in proper tension, while M2 will be lower due to friction in the grommet. but afterwards, i go back and pull M2 again (and you can see that there are some slack in M2 in the video by look at how much the orange MBS clamps moves) to take out the slack. so the end result should have both string getting equal tension.
Hi kwun, what machine were you using in the video? ah nevermind sorry, I didn't notice there was a credits at the end of the video
it is a mutant between an Alpha Shuttle Express, a WISE 2086 tension head, and a Eagnas stringing machine stand...
Ah I see, did you start off with a drop weight? Or did you start off with all those gadgets already? I've been thinking about buying myself a cheap machine so I could string mine and perhaps my badminton team's rackets if tehre isn't already someone doing so
i used to have a cheap drop weight many years ago. it was truly painful to string a racket with it. at that time, 50mins per racket was a decent time. i went with a low end Eagnas that gave me endless problem also. i ended up selling it. the current machine is an evolution over time. aside from lack of fixed clamps, it has been serving me pretty well. depending on the quantity you get to string, it maybe worth it to invest a bit more on a crank machine to start with. something in the region of $700-ish. it will pay for itself after a year or so. low end machines will just cause a lot of cursing.
Thanks for the help! I've tried a yonex ES5PRO before and that is one godly stringing machine. Would you recommend the ST-250 because it doesn't seem badly priced and it looks like it could get the job done
i haven't used the ST250 before so i cannot comment. i suggest either search for it here or post a new thread to ask about it. the Alpha Shuttle Express which mine is base on, is similar price to the ST250, and is an excellent machine.
it used to be available from newtechtennis.com but they don't have it anymore. you can mail Mark (mark@alphatennis.com) to see if it is available. i got mine through him.
Sorry to revive an oldish thread, but I didn't want to start a new thread for this. When you take off your flying clamps, how much did the machine change in response to the change in tension? For example my dropweight actually drops further as I take off the orange flying clamps. So my two options are: 1. leave the dropweight a little above horizontal then as I take off the clamps it drops to horizontal? or 2. Should I drop the bar to horizontal, take off the clamps, then re-tension the string until horizontal again? Any advice?
interesting question. i assume you are refering to while using the method i showed in the video. there are some slack strings in the flying where there strings are clamped between the teeth. and it is expected to tightened when you remove the clamps. due to the fact that there is nothing clamping the string on the other end, it is not a good idea to do option 2. i would do option 1 instead. i don't see that issue as the WISE electronic tensioner automatically adjusts for the slack once the flying clamps are removed.