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Thread: Crosses

  1. #52
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    Common sense need to prevail, if the holes are too close together then skip... works out 99.9% of the time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TimothyHsu View Post
    Thanks guys for all the help! I'm a try and try again guy haha. Maybe it's cuz Im still pretty young and stuff... Do you guys think that this knot is good for badmin? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGyDh...AJhibFWe-h4IqA I try to do the wilson pro-knot or something like that and is relatively easy
    you should keep things simple. do the simple knots first. and then try to figure out the basics before you move onto fancier things.

  3. #54
    Regular Member TimothyHsu's Avatar
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    So far this is all I have. Hopefully no big errors? I followed each step on the yonex string thing
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    looking good!

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    Your side supports at the 10 and 2 o'clock does not look like they are touching the racket... not uncommon when doing the crosses top down... but should always be touching when doing the mains. Ideally, all supports should be touching the racket at all times throughout the stringing process. Your string pattern is looking much better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KingO View Post
    Your side supports at the 10 and 2 o'clock does not look like they are touching the racket... not uncommon when doing the crosses top down... but should always be touching when doing the mains. Ideally, all supports should be touching the racket at all times throughout the stringing process. Your string pattern is looking much better.
    Yeh - I can see a gap between the frame and the top-right support in the picture. When you mount the frame, give it an up/down wiggle before you put any string in to make sure there are no gaps.

    As KingO says, it's OK for the frame to come away from the top supports if going top down, but it kind of negates the advantage of having six-point support if two of the points aren't being utilized!

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    Is there actually no contact at 10 and 2? Or is it an optical illusion?
    How is that possible when there is only unopposed force on the frame from the mains? (...unless the supports were manually loosened after the mains were strung.)

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    Regular Member TimothyHsu's Avatar
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    Only the 2 is not touching because it was covering the holesso I moved it out a bit. Is that a problem that should not happen?

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    You shouldn't take the shoulder supports off. They are designed to take the strain off the frame until you balance out the forces with the cross strings.

    It looks like you could afford to move your top post in a bit so that the 10/2 o'clock supports are a little further down on the frame (ie lower than the last main on the top). That would eliminate the problem of the support blocking your grommet and give you a little more lateral support to the frame during the stringing process.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TimothyHsu View Post
    Only the 2 is not touching because it was covering the holesso I moved it out a bit. Is that a problem that should not happen?
    You sure never move any support out after the frame been tension until it done. Now your frame look around on the top.
    Last edited by Alexccs; 04-05-2012 at 10:15 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fidget View Post
    You shouldn't take the shoulder supports off. They are designed to take the strain off the frame until you balance out the forces with the cross strings.

    It looks like you could afford to move your top post in a bit so that the 10/2 o'clock supports are a little further down on the frame (ie lower than the last main on the top). That would eliminate the problem of the support blocking your grommet and give you a little more lateral support to the frame during the stringing process.
    Like Fidget says, you need to make adjustments before the stringing process even begins such that your side supports do not block critical shared grommets.

  12. #63
    Regular Member TimothyHsu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fidget View Post
    You shouldn't take the shoulder supports off. They are designed to take the strain off the frame until you balance out the forces with the cross strings. It looks like you could afford to move your top post in a bit so that the 10/2 o'clock supports are a little further down on the frame (ie lower than the last main on the top). That would eliminate the problem of the support blocking your grommet and give you a little more lateral support to the frame during the stringing process.
    Aha thank you very much! I was confused as to why they would design it so it would cover a hole

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    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimothyHsu View Post
    Aha thank you very much! I was confused as to why they would design it so it would cover a hole
    good question.

    but before they figure that out, that's what the pliers are for!

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    Regular Member TimothyHsu's Avatar
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    Does it matter whether you start weaving your crossesup then down or down then up? I can't find the answer online...

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    some ppl like to do TD, some do BU. it doesn't matter.

    make sure you tighten the side support and never loosen it before you start the crosses.

  16. #67
    Regular Member TimothyHsu's Avatar
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    I'm almost finished with my crosses but I followed the way the diagram said to do it instead of the way you did it in your video. Why does it say to string from the top of the racket to the bottom while you string bottom to top of the racket? Thanks

  17. #68
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    How's its look? I'm not sure about how to ti the knots. Would a wilsonpros pronot suffice?
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