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  1. #1
    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    Default fixed clamp adjustment

    this is kind of new to me.

    how / how often do you adjust the gap width of your fixed clamps?

    the variable as i see it, are:

    - string (thickness + texture)
    - tension

    do you adjust it once for the thinnest string for the highest tension, or do you adjust it every time you string? or something in between?

    how do you adjust it? trial and error by pulling the desired tension with it? or some other ways?

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    I have used a few fixed clamps and I do adjust from time to time depending on:

    1) Quality of clamps
    Some clamps do get loose pretty quick and thus rather unstable. I have to adjust them from time to time.

    2) Tension
    As the tension increases, the string gets lengthened and shrinks a little. Adjustment may be needed. After coming to terms with your clamps you will be able to feel the diff and adjust accordingly.

    3) String gauge
    There is certainly a difference btw 0.70mm and 0.65mm. Ideally it should be adjusted for such a difference.

    4) String texture
    There are some 'waxy' and slippery strings that may require adjustment on the fix clamps and also the string gripper.

    Indicating on the adjustment knot is a good way to benchmark. I only have one marking that is on the most optimal setting perhaps good for 0.68mm (or the most popular gauge you string) and i adjust accordingly from there based on the assessment of the factors above. I am sure some stringers mark on different gauges as well. You need alot of trial and error and knowledge of your clamps to find the right feeling. Sometimes the friction or sound when your clamps are gripping tight will give you clues. As there are various factors, you may/may not need to adjust each time. That is why i have the most optimal setting. Also need to experiment between shuffling the string to the deepest end or somewhere in the middle of the teeth. Good clamps like Gamma's should suffice without going to the deep end. I have dismantled some clamps before and they didnt turn out the same after re-assembling it. Having a good base swivel helps alot in terms of stability. Gamma ones even without self locking mechanism is excellent in quality. Be prepared to see some string frays, dents and breakage before you are all set to go.

    I cud be one of the few ones who 'downgraded' from fixed clamps to flying clamps. I do not have to adjust the flying clamps and they are so handy and quick. They are so optimal, doesnt damages strings and no problems at all for 30LB and below. However i will prefer to use the fix clamp for some crossovers such as main tieoffs in Yonex 4knots method.

    Do you know what is the expected lifespan of the fly clamps before their ability to hold tension well drops?

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    For Gamma, you don't have to adjust it after the initial setting unless the string is at the extreme ends of thickness or thinness.

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    I adjust my clamps everytime I change string. The first time I strung with BG80 I belive I had the clamps set a little too tight and that contributed to my strings breaking in my first game with them.

    My clamps (soon to be replaced) are adjusted via an allen key. What I do is place the target string under tension, widen the clamp right up then clamp onto the string, I then tighten the allen screw until the clamp starts to 'bite'. With an ink pen I then mark the string between the teeth of the clamp and remove the string from the tensioner. If then ink marks move then I know the clamp is too loose and I give the screw another 1/8 of a turn. I repeat the tightning process until there's no more slippage. I then finally release the string from the clamp and examine the string between the ink marks to make sure the clamp hasn't damaged the string.

    I find I have to inspect the string for damage as my clamps are really really bad (in fact a replacement watdon's clamp arrived in the post this morning) and don't grip well so I can end up overtightning them. If I notice damage I'll slacken off the clamp and use a paper shim to stop slippage, I'm sure you won't have this problem

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    Quote Originally Posted by HappySachs View Post
    I find I have to inspect the string for damage as my clamps are really really bad (in fact a replacement watdon's clamp arrived in the post this morning) and don't grip well so I can end up overtightning them. If I notice damage I'll slacken off the clamp and use a paper shim to stop slippage, I'm sure you won't have this problem
    Do let us know how does the Watdon clamps compare to your old ones Enjoy

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    try it one time with each string and measure it with a "thickness gauge" (like this http://www.amazon.de/dp/B003AN5H1Q/). so you can easily adjust the fixed clamp with the "thickness gauge".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex82 View Post
    try it one time with each string and measure it with a "thickness gauge" (like this http://www.amazon.de/dp/B003AN5H1Q/). so you can easily adjust the fixed clamp with the "thickness gauge".
    That's a good idea, they're called 'feeler gauges' in the UK. With my new clamp there's a large flat knob instead of an allen key, I was toying with the idea of marking the knob/dial but the feeler gauge idea my prove to be more accurate.

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    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    If you have the WD universals you can, if you're so inclined, draw on the adjustment dial to indicate the different thicknesses. the Yonex clamps have a white arrowhead for this purpose.

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    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappySachs View Post
    That's a good idea, they're called 'feeler gauges' in the UK. With my new clamp there's a large flat knob instead of an allen key, I was toying with the idea of marking the knob/dial but the feeler gauge idea my prove to be more accurate.
    most strings falls in the range of 0.62mm to 0.70mm. do these feeler gauge have fine enough increment to make a difference?

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    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwun View Post
    most strings falls in the range of 0.62mm to 0.70mm. do these feeler gauge have fine enough increment to make a difference?
    I haven't seen a feeler gauge that can resolve down past 0.05 - pretty much useless for badminton. A 0.02 or 0.01 blade would be like a piece of foil.

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    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    I haven't seen a feeler gauge that can resolve down past 0.05 - pretty much useless for badminton. A 0.02 or 0.01 blade would be like a piece of foil.
    we don't need 0.02mm or 0.01mm thick.

    we need 0.60mm to 0.75mm in 0.01mm increments.

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    Mark 2 settings. 1 for 0.66mm or thinner. 1 for 0.67 or thicker. A quick way for test. Get 2 business cards. Clamp the 2 business cards and it should just be able to pull out of the clamp while engaged. That is your setting 1 for 0.66mm or less. Same method with 2 business cards and 1 Posted yellow sticky on each side. That is your mark 2 for 0.67mm or thicker.

    If you want to go detail like Master LSD, do 3 business cards and that is 0.70mm as mark 3. use 2 cards as 0.67mm mark 2 and adjust it with same angle difference for 0.64mm.

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    i think a 0.05 steps are small enough. with 0.05mm you don't damage a string. also i see in this forum a thread with the "real" thickness of the strings... i think 0.05 steps are better than just try it...

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    Quote Originally Posted by kwun View Post
    most strings falls in the range of 0.62mm to 0.70mm. do these feeler gauge have fine enough increment to make a difference?
    bit late with my reply, but the only feeler gauges I've seen in person were in my dad's garage, when I was a kid. I've taken a quick look and found a set that look like they might have the required fidelity, I can't be sure though as they don't list the exact intervals on any of the store sites.

    With my replacement Watdon universal clamp the dial is very stiff and seems to have zero play. So if I mark it I expect I can return the dial to that position and get exactly the same clamp teeth spacing. I hope this would be the case for all well made clamps.

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    hi, is it possible to ever find this sweet spot when adjusting clamps so there is absolutely no damage to the string and it grips?

    i'm having a difficult time adjusting them such that the string does not get bitten into and the clamp holds.

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    Quote Originally Posted by anthony.nguyen View Post
    hi, is it possible to ever find this sweet spot when adjusting clamps so there is absolutely no damage to the string and it grips?

    i'm having a difficult time adjusting them such that the string does not get bitten into and the clamp holds.
    Yes.
    Get a business card. Fold it in 1/2. Insert the folded business card into the clamp with center side down. Close the clamp. If you can pull out the folded card with no force, it is too loose. Open and adjust the clamp then test again till you can pull the card with some force. Then mark your clamp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silentheart View Post
    Yes.
    Get a business card. Fold it in 1/2. Insert the folded business card into the clamp with center side down. Close the clamp. If you can pull out the folded card with no force, it is too loose. Open and adjust the clamp then test again till you can pull the card with some force. Then mark your clamp.
    i just tried that and it slows down the process of stringing by quite a lot. also, it doesn't work very efficiently for stringing the crosses either.

    are there any other alternatives? or is biting into the string a mandatory tradeoff even on the finest clamps?

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