http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=9bj5sg&s=5 http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=35l7lnc&s=5 http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=14csocn&s=5 I just watched Kwuns video and at the sides of the racket the strings are straight where as mine are noticeably slanted? why is this? Is it to do with my frame, cause its isometric
Kwuns racket is a more modern type with less shared holes and the mains parallel. The older type with shared holes had the final mains splayed.
Not all new rackets have this stringing pattern. Most high end rackets do though. NS2000 isnt high end though. It shouldnt really affect anything that you would notice. It makes it easier for stringers and is supposed to make better sweet spot. But you wont notice it.
i have more problem with the new pattern than the old! the mains strings always cover the cross grommet and make it impossible to thread.
Yes that is annoying, especially with high tensions with thicker string. With the thinner strings <0.67mm the older method is easier...with 0.62 strings they are a doddle!
The new pattern only has one difficult hole at the top, not three like the OSP! You need to a) use top down, and b) use my localized pre-weave cheat. I bet the Z pattern haunts your nightmares...
The first racket I ever strung in my life was my MX80 and I was not prepared for the difficulty caused by some of the mains going over a few of the grommet cross holes before the cross was inserted. I was using a thin BG66UM string at 28 lbs. What made the situation even worse is that the distance the main string covers when crossing one of those holes is very short so it is very hard to deflect. I tried moving the string with a fingernail to no avail. I blunted the sharp tip of my awl and carefully tried to pry the string downward. This worked for one such move, but on the next, all the prying with the awl knawed at the the main string and caused it to snap and I had to start over. One the next go around, I remembered to place a short piece of pull string in all those situations so that I could pull the short section of main string out of the way just enough to clear a way for the cross to go into its grommet hole. This works perfectly, you just have to remember to place those pull strings before its too late. Now if you want maximum ease of dealing with this situation, this is the way to go. I resisted trying Mark's localized preweave for quite awhile because as a novice, I didn't want to think about crosses until all the mains were done. But if you go top-down, and preweave your top three crosses just before finishing your mains, you will save yourself a lot of work, time, and frustration.