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  1. #18
    Regular Member urameatball's Avatar
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    my version of pre-stretch is just pulling twice on the machine.
    on mains, it's pull, tread the next string, release, pull, clamp.
    on crosses, it's pull, weave next string, release, pull, clamp.

    Works fine for me and I can't tell the difference between my method versus manual pre-stretching.

  2. #19
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    Try PS 35/38 on NS 9900 for Thomas Laybourn. KRAZY!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    I stay away from machine prestretch because it puts extra stress on the frame. I play in the low 30's, and an ECP over-pull would take me into 36+ lb territory.

    That, and hand prestretching is an awful lot quicker IME.

  3. #20
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kakinami View Post
    Try PS 35/38 on NS 9900 for Thomas Laybourn. KRAZY!!!
    Laybourn's always had mental tension, but 38 PS? Did you draw straws for his rackets, or something?

  4. #21
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    If you use a drop weight or electric constant pull and do it slow, pre-streching is waste of time. For crank machine add 3 lb is the way to go. double pull also a good method.

  5. #22
    Regular Member gundamzaku's Avatar
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    is there a step by step thread on prestretching with a manual crank? i can't find it. if not, can someone describe to me step by step please?

  6. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundamzaku View Post
    is there a step by step thread on prestretching with a manual crank? i can't find it. if not, can someone describe to me step by step please?
    Step 1) Pull the string very slowly until it reaches the tension
    Step 2) Release the tension
    Step 3) Pull the string again slowly until it reaches the tension

    This will cut down a lot of the elasticity

  7. #24
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundamzaku View Post
    is there a step by step thread on prestretching with a manual crank? i can't find it. if not, can someone describe to me step by step please?
    Tbh, I'd use the doorknob method with a crank machine - adding up all the extra time from the slow (or double) pulls puts you way past what you'd use pulling it by hand before you put it in the frame.

  8. #25
    Regular Member gundamzaku's Avatar
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    you know how when you put the string on the pincher that holds onto the string when you pull at tension you want, do you take the string out of the pincher, and place it back in before you pull the same section of the string a second time???

  9. #26
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    Agree with Mark_A that the doorknob is your friend.

    But it is still worth it to always pull slowly near the end tension. And to do second pulls where the crosses are woven tightly. A slow job is the best job for the casual stringer.

  10. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundamzaku View Post
    you know how when you put the string on the pincher that holds onto the string when you pull at tension you want, do you take the string out of the pincher, and place it back in before you pull the same section of the string a second time???
    Yes. (10 characters)

  11. #28
    Regular Member gundamzaku's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fidget View Post
    Agree with Mark_A that the doorknob is your friend.

    But it is still worth it to always pull slowly near the end tension. And to do second pulls where the crosses are woven tightly. A slow job is the best job for the casual stringer.
    that is very true. there's no rush for some of us who's not out there for the sake of servicing other people. thank you for the reminder.

  12. #29
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fidget View Post
    Agree with Mark_A that the doorknob is your friend.

    But it is still worth it to always pull slowly near the end tension. And to do second pulls where the crosses are woven tightly. A slow job is the best job for the casual stringer.
    Slowing down on the crank when you get to the end of the pull is always good practice. When doing crosses I found it helpful to use my free hand to straighten them - they've got to be straight at the instant the crank locks out.

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