racket movement whilst stringing

**AdamS** · 11-29-2012, 07:36 AM

Hi, I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips on how to prevent racket movement whilst stringing. I clamp the racket in place and it is sucured firmly so that the racket can't move. Everything it final until the final cross and the top of the racket. As I pull tension the head seems to strecth outward also the racket looks like it's moving sidewides slightly and as I release tension and always find the topd support loose and have to tighten it. Also the support isnt being undone or atleast not as much as I re turn it as I tighten it and before now I have not been able to re tighten the top support and it doesn't turn anymore and the frame at the top stays slightly loose.

Any advice? thanks

**Mark A** · 11-29-2012, 09:25 AM

The racket will turn slightly as you pull strings at the extreme edges of the frame - this is normal. As long as it comes out symmetrical and within a couple of milimeters of the empty length, all should be fine.

You can try putting some old pieces of grip on your supports to give traction.

**_Rav_** · 11-29-2012, 04:11 PM

What machine are you using?

First time i used my WISE tension head the top of the frame got pulled pretty violently, so i switched to the slowest speed pull, and as Mark says, added a little overgrip to the top load spreader.

**AdamS** · 12-06-2012, 07:42 AM

ok i'll try that, is it still alright though if the top support needs tightening after the pull? how tightly turned should the top and bottom support be at the start of the stringing?

**AdamS** · 12-06-2012, 07:43 AM

I use a pro's pro machine with the standard wind tension head

**R20190** · 12-06-2012, 11:11 AM

This happens a lot particularly when stringing the old Carbonex oval shaped heads. It occurs because there is no support between the last side and the 12 o'clock support. Not a lot you can do about it, but make sure you don't keep the racquet in that position for too long. Some stringers reduce the tension in the last few crosses to minimise it.

**_Rav_** · 12-06-2012, 12:09 PM

Originally Posted by AdamS

ok i'll try that, is it still alright though if the top support needs tightening after the pull? how tightly turned should the top and bottom support be at the start of the stringing?

Don't take this as gospel, but i tighten mine so that you can wiggle the racket handle up and down and the head stays firm. Generally i tighten 12 and 6, then the sides which will elongate the head a little so 12 an 6 need a little more before you start to string.

**Mark A** · 12-07-2012, 03:56 AM

Originally Posted by _Rav_

Don't take this as gospel, but i tighten mine so that you can wiggle the racket handle up and down and the head stays firm. Generally i tighten 12 and 6, then the sides which will elongate the head a little so 12 an 6 need a little more before you start to string.

If you're using a load spread at 12, you might find that the 6 support loosens slightly (1-2 mm) when you pull the first two mains - this is normal, the racket is sinking into the loadspreader. I tighten it to "just touching" before continuing.

Personally, I also "pre-stretch" my frames by 1-2 mm when using high tensions.

**gundamzaku** · 12-07-2012, 03:23 PM

i also find that the frame shrinks a little after i am done stringing, and i do turn the knob to tighten the mount a bit, but just barely turning the knob just to make sure it doesn't move at all.

how do you prestretch a frame???

**Mark A** · 12-08-2012, 02:37 AM

Originally Posted by gundamzaku

how do you prestretch a frame???

Tighten the 6 support until the shaft decals move down 1-2 mm

.

**AdamS** · 12-08-2012, 10:41 AM

Originally Posted by Mark A

Tighten the 6 support until the shaft decals move down 1-2 mm

.

when you say pre-strech, do you mean tightening the supports so that the fram extends a few mm then loosening the support and re-tightening to touch-tightness or tighten to stretch the few mm then leave it and tighten the side supports?

**Mark A** · 12-08-2012, 11:26 AM

Originally Posted by AdamS

when you say pre-strech, do you mean tightening the supports so that the fram extends a few mm then loosening the support and re-tightening to touch-tightness or tighten to stretch the few mm then leave it and tighten the side supports?

The second one - get 1-2 mm of lengthwise stretch, then bring the side supports in touch-tight.

**AdamS** · 12-09-2012, 07:24 AM

Originally Posted by Mark A

The second one - get 1-2 mm of lengthwise stretch, then bring the side supports in touch-tight.

yes thats what i do. although i still end up re tightening the top support towards the end of the cross strings.

**Mark A** · 12-09-2012, 10:00 AM

Originally Posted by AdamS

yes thats what i do. although i still end up re tightening the top support towards the end of the cross strings.

Yes - if you do top-down stringing you will notice the top of the frame narrowing by 1-2 mm by the time you get 2/3 of the way down the racket. Again, normal, and re-tightening the top supports will stop the racket turning.

**gundamzaku** · 12-09-2012, 12:10 PM

Originally Posted by Mark A

Yes - if you do top-down stringing you will notice the top of the frame narrowing by 1-2 mm by the time you get 2/3 of the way down the racket. Again, normal, and re-tightening the top supports will stop the racket turning.

Thank goodness I already tighten rackets to that point, phew, and I thought I messed up or if I had tightened my rackets too tightly all this time! Thx for the explanation and clarification, Mark A!

**AdamS** · 12-10-2012, 02:03 AM

Originally Posted by Mark A

Yes - if you do top-down stringing you will notice the top of the frame narrowing by 1-2 mm by the time you get 2/3 of the way down the racket. Again, normal, and re-tightening the top supports will stop the racket turning.

ok thanks! I have a racket to string this week, I have put a piece of grip on the top load spreader so I will see how that goes!!!

**Mark A** · 12-10-2012, 08:28 AM

I've found that mounting the racket slightly "high" in the machine (i.e. with the bottom supports coming in just above B12 and the top ones around A15) is the best way to accomodate top-down - the aim is to stop the bottom of the racket flaring out as the top crosses go in.

Our esteemed (Alan) Kakinami does this upside-down for bottom-up stringing.