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  1. #18
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    Originally posted by bigredlemon
    You mean, you were impressed with Shabok's ability to bring out the beauty of his subjects, right?
    Dont know about that until i see her in person....
    maybe Shabok can arrange that

  2. #19
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    Originally posted by bigredlemon
    At 18MB each, you'll run out of space fast eh? I'd shoot in Jpeg (SHQ or 10 or MAX) mode. I'm not sure if it's called for your camera, but it should be the highest setting. Each pic should come out to about 500Kb to 1MB. You would be hard-pressed to find the difference between the two. BTW, how come you are converting to 16bit TIFF? The only real advantage TIFF has over JPEG is that it supports 32bit. Since your camera supports up to 36bit, it'd be ashame to lose all that colour data, which could be useful in enhancing the resolution if you ever decide to magnify it, or reduces the colourloss from converting to CYMK mode for printing/publishing.
    Shooting in RAW has many advantages over JPEG. Like I said, the camera captures 12bit per color channel. The RAW format retains all this information and is losslessly compressed so that each picture takes approximately 3-3.2MB on my compact flash card. Later, I convert the RAW files to TIFF (or JPEG), but the TIFF format cannot store 12bit per color channel, only 8bit or 16bit. In my case, I convert to 16bit (per color channel, that is 48bit TIFF). This is very useful when correcting exposure or to avoid losing information in the shadows or highlights.

    Using the RAW format has also other advantages, like less noise at high ISOs and the possibility to redefine white balance before the conversion to TIFF.

  3. #20
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    Originally posted by bigredlemon
    You mean, you were impressed with Shabok's ability to bring out the beauty of his subjects, right?

    LOL ! But you are not quite correct, she looks much better in person

  4. #21
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    Originally posted by Shabok
    Actually, the approach was quite simple since I had many constraints.

    Concerning the lighting, my incident light meter gave the following readings : ISO 800, 1/250th, f/2.0. Therefore, if I had used my 70-200 f/2.8 zoom I would have had to use ISO 1600, f/2.8, 1/250th. However, I knew from various forums that 1/250th is barely sufficient to freeze action in basketball. Badminton needs faster shutter speeds.
    I wonder, if you did a few shots at 1/250th or 1/180th, the racquet speed will be blurred a bit.

    Would that add to the impression of speed in the game?

  5. #22
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    Originally posted by Shabok
    Shooting in RAW has many advantages over JPEG. Like I said, the camera captures 12bit per color channel. The RAW format retains all this information and is losslessly compressed so that each picture takes approximately 3-3.2MB on my compact flash card. Later, I convert the RAW files to TIFF (or JPEG), but the TIFF format cannot store 12bit per color channel, only 8bit or 16bit. In my case, I convert to 16bit (per color channel, that is 48bit TIFF). This is very useful when correcting exposure or to avoid losing information in the shadows or highlights.

    Using the RAW format has also other advantages, like less noise at high ISOs and the possibility to redefine white balance before the convrsion to TIFF.
    You said before "I shoot in RAW, which is 3MPixel with no compression (12bit per color channel, each file is 18MB after conversion from RAW to 16bit-TIFF)."

    I think i misunderstood you... I thought you meant you stored them as raw (as in uncompressed) files rather than raw compressed files. I also thought you meant 16 bits total rather than 16 bits per channel.

  6. #23
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    Originally posted by Cheung
    I wonder, if you did a few shots at 1/250th or 1/180th, the racquet speed will be blurred a bit.

    Would that add to the impression of speed in the game?
    Today I couldn't shoot with my 50/1.4 (since I couldn't get close enough), so I had to use my 70-200/2.8. Shooting at ISO 1600, f/2.8, 1/250th produced what I expected : sharp feet (if they are on the ground) but the rest of the body is slightly blurry, not only the racquet. So I had to avoid capturing quick movements. 1/250th is clearly not fast enough...

    I will post pics later.

    Shabok

  7. #24
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    Originally posted by bigredlemon
    I think i misunderstood you... I thought you meant you stored them as raw (as in uncompressed) files rather than raw compressed files. I also thought you meant 16 bits total rather than 16 bits per channel.
    I think I wasn't clear enough

    Shabok

  8. #25
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    OK, here are the pics of last week-end's tournament :

    http://www.nobrakes.ch/bcm_141202.php

    Compared to last week, I tried new shooting angles, and I also tried improving my timing. Let me know if you like them better or not.

    Technical details :
    The first half of the pics have been taken at 1/250th, ISO 1600, f/2.8 with a 70-200mm zoom lens. The other half has been taken with the 50/1.4 at 1/400th, ISO 800, f/1.6.

  9. #26
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    Shabok,

    nice! the set of new pictures have more flavor to it and feels less monotonous. good job!

    do you hold your camera freehand and "chase" the player, or do you fixate on a location and "wait" for the player?

    with the low res images online, i don't see much grain due to the use of ISO1600. do you see much grain with the full res images? i used ISO800 before and the grain was very acceptable. there is a slight motion blur with the 70-200mm but it think that really acceptable.

    i wish i have a nice Digital SLR myself. but the price right now is really prohitibitive.

  10. #27
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    Thanks kwun ! I also think this set of pics is less "boring" than the old one.

    I was always chasing the player, having the camera in AI-Servo autofocus (i.e. for moving targets, it constantly tries to keep the subject focused). When shooting through the net, the funny thing was that most of the time the camera didn't focus on the net but on the player

    ISO1600 shots are quite noisy when viewed full size, but that noise is less noticeable on small prints or when the picture is resized for the web. If you want, I can post a 100% crop of an ISO1600 shot.

    The price of those digital SLRs is quickly going down. I bought my D30 2nd hand, like new, for less than $1350. My local camera shop has currently another one in stock for $1200. Actually I spent more in lenses than in the camera, but lenses hold their value better . Some US camera shops are selling factory refurbished Canon EOS-1D (you know, the ultimate sports digital SLR with a 45-point AF and 8 frames per second for up to 21 frames) for $2500...

    Shabok

  11. #28
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    Nice picture session, Shabok !

  12. #29
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    i have used freehand and tripod but concentrating on one part of the court, say, on one corner at the front of the net. then do all manual focus, etc beforehand, and then just wait there. but then, i had a much slow camera and the autofocus will die quite miserably chasing players...

    US$2500... that 45 cab20's!

  13. #30
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    Thank you Yong !

    kwan, here is a 100% crop (with no processing) of an ISO1600 shot (http://www.nobrakes.ch/bcm_141202_slide.php?index=2), so that you can have an idea about the amount of noise at this ISO speed :

    http://www.nobrakes.ch/uploads/CRW_2588_crop.jpg

    Shabok

  14. #31
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    The resolution isn't so bad. I quite like the 2nd set of pictures. Is this only the 2nd session that you have taken badminton pictures? There must be a learning curve.

  15. #32
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    BTW, where is the receiver for that shot?

  16. #33
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    Shabok,
    The pictures are really nice. Just wished mine were similar to yours in terms of quality.

  17. #34
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    Default Badminton Photography

    Kwun, if Raphael would have put the picture online sooner, I would have asked for an autograph at the Sudirman Cup, but I didn't recognize the moderator of this holy forum in the form of that cheering badminton-fan at the time!

    I am also thinking of buying a camera this summer and using it for badminton photography as well. Since both of you were spotted with photocameras at the event, what kind of advice do you have for the camera, lenses, etc.? Did you by now gain any practical experience that you think might come in handy when buying a new camera?

    Most people advice me shutter speed <= 1/4000 sec. and aperture <= 2.7., for example. Canon EOS-10D, Nikon coolpix 5700 are not ridiculously expensive and satisfy these requirements.

    Any advice from badminton photographers on this forum??
    What is needed for a good photo?

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