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  1. #103
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    Thumbs up EOS 300D - Cracked!

    For the techies here at the forum, you might be interested in the following link about the EOS 300D:

    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=6499703

    In a nutshell, the EOS 300D is a dumbed-down version of the more expensive 10D. As such, some features were disabled through the firmware of the camera. Not surprisingly, coding gurus have been trying to crack / reverse engineer the firmware in attempt to unlock features that were disabled by Canon. The above link describes a known method to unlock the flash exposure compensation feature in the 300D.

    -Rick

  2. #104
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    Originally posted by ants
    Guys.. what brand of CF card with high acceleration would you recomend? I currently using Sandisk.
    heard about Lexar Media cf card ants? it should be the fastest cf card at the moment.
    it comes along with a cf card reader with data rescue feature.sound pretty cool isn't it.
    it's not quite expensive. for a 256 mbs. it's just 600 something hong kong dollars. the sandisk ultra 256 is around hk $550. recently, the sandisk seems not to be as reliable as the old days. many many "dead " card's around and it happens to sandisk ultra as well!
    Last edited by red00ecstrat; 11-18-2003 at 05:17 AM.

  3. #105
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    Default Re: EOS 300D - Cracked!

    Originally posted by Traum
    For the techies here at the forum, you might be interested in the following link about the EOS 300D:

    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...essage=6499703

    In a nutshell, the EOS 300D is a dumbed-down version of the more expensive 10D. As such, some features were disabled through the firmware of the camera. Not surprisingly, coding gurus have been trying to crack / reverse engineer the firmware in attempt to unlock features that were disabled by Canon. The above link describes a known method to unlock the flash exposure compensation feature in the 300D.

    -Rick
    You know it's funny as soon as you said firmware mod, I thought someone's going to crack it, just like when ATI released the 9500 Pro, purely through software you could bring it up to about 9700 Pro performance a card that cost at least twice as much.

    Pity I don't have the cash, or the space to carry around an SLR around.
    Last edited by Pecheur; 11-26-2003 at 07:33 PM.

  4. #106
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    Default badminton photography

    for the photography buffs here, what lenses do you use when you take badminton photos? i am planning to get a digital slr in the coming months and i've been checking out various lenses. i want to take pics of badminton, table tennis, f1 racing and night football so i expect that i will need to get a 70-200mm lens (equivalent to approx 100-300mm on dslr). in an old post i read that kwun and ronk recommend fast lenses (f/2.8 or wider) but for the zoom range i'm interested in, the price differences are significant. from the canon australia site, 70-200/2.8L USM is $2849, 70-200/4L USM is $1599, 75-300/4-5.6 IS USM is $1099. comparing the 2 70-200mm lenses, that's $1250 difference for 1 extra possible f-stop. is it really necessary to use f/2.8 for badminton? could i get away with using f/4 but slower shutter and higher iso settings? i have also considered fast prime lenses e.g. 50/1.8 ($179), 50/1.4 USM ($749) or 85/1.8 USM ($899) but i'm not sure if these focal lengths will be sufficient. would any photographers here like to post some badminton pics they have taken themselves and provide the focal length, aperture and shutter speeds used? all help is greatly appreciated. thanks

  5. #107
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    I would normally keep the lens to about 35mm, but vary the shutter speed depending on what type of shot is being played, if you get me...for a smash, I'd have the speed about 1/8. The blurred effect gives the idea of speed. For a controlled net shot, to emphasise the meticulous detail and precision in the shot, I'd have a shutter speed of about 1/500, so that every detail of the picture compliments the detail of the shot. (Get me, the arty lingo coming out!)

    Well, I dunno about digital SLR. A bit pricey? I don't actually have a digital camera, but I might get one soon. I'm well into photography, and I'm goiing to do a course fairly soon.

    Aleik.

  6. #108
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    Default My Badminton Pictures

    Hello Mini Me. I took quite a few (badminton) pictures at my tournament in November, and you might want to check them out at:

    http://www.badmintonforum.com/vb/sho...t&pagenumber=2

    and

    http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288509941

    I shot those pictures with my Canon Digital Rebel / EOS 300D, mainly using my 100mm f/2.8. The gym wasn't very bright, and I didn't want to use a flash, so most pictures were taken at ISO 1600 with a wide open aperture and very slow shutter speed of 1/80 to 1/125.

    For indoor sports picture, I don't think there is ever such a thing as having too much light. If you have a wider aperture, you can more easily freeze the action as you wish. And with a dSLR, if you already have a fast enough shutter speed, you can easily boost your image quality by going to a lower ISO setting. (IMO, the increase in image quality by using a lower ISO setting is dramatically greater than the improvement you get by using a mid-range f/8 to f/11 aperture instead of a wide open aperture.)

    -Rick

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    Default Comments on the Lens

    Regarding the lens that you listed, you have to remember the difference between the 70-200mm lens is more than just the extra f-stop. The 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is one of the best lens that Canon makes, combining some of the best L-glass image quality, a fast aperture, and the flexibility for you to add an extension tube to make the lens reach out even further. (Oh, and I forgot to mention that you can also get the f/2.8 lens with IS now). Everyone who owns that particular lens absolutely swears by it. With the f/4 lens, in addition to losing the extra f-stop, you also lose some shotting flexibility, the IS option, and perhaps a bit of image quality as well.

    Have you considered purchasing your lens from the US? BH Photos is probably one of the cheapest places on Earth for camera products. I did a quick check there just now, and given the current exchange rates, the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 non-IS lens can be had for approximtely Austrlian $1500. (The IS version is only around AUD $2200.) Of course, you'd have to pay for shipping and possibly taxes as well, but it'd still be way cheaper than you can buy down south.

    -Rick

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    thanks for the reply traum. i just went to a camera store today to check out 70-200/2.8 lenses. the cheapest i found was a sigma which i've read good reviews about and costs A$1899. i then checked out bh photo and i can't believe that even with shipping it would cost about A$1100! i'm think i'll be getting the canon 300d kit with 70-200 sigma.

    as an aside, how well does the 300d's continuous focus track a subject as it moves? i think i'm going to need this feature for football pics.

  9. #111
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    To be honest with you, I have no idea how well the focus tracking function works on the 300D even though I have the camera myself. Canon has intentionally crippled the 300D firmware to set it apart from the more expensive 10D. As a result, focus tracking is only available in the dummy sports mode (which I almost never use because it gives me too little control over the exposure setting, not to mention that I can't shoot RAW in sports mode).

    In terms of continuous shooting, the 4-picture buffer with 2.5 fps burst rate on the 300D is acceptable, although I could use a larger buffer and a faster burst rate.

    BTW, if you were gonna place an order for the camera+lens, you might want to wait an extra week or two until the major (camera) manufacturers are all done with their latest product announcements at the PMA. Although there are already a lot of fairly reliable rumours floating around about what each manufacturer would introduce, there might be some surprises nevertheless. Street prices may or may not drop as a result of the new product announcements.

    -Rick

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    no focus tracking unless in a dummy mode?? doh! what a dilemma! i am considering canon 300d and nikon d70, which should be out by the time i go to hong kong. i was leaning towards canon because their technology seems to be ahead of nikon's, but the d70 appears to be better because it isn't dummied down. i suppose if i get 3rd party lenses then i don't need to worry about which system i'm stuck with.

  11. #113
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    For good badminton photography, you need the following:
    1. A good tripod, the heavier the better.
    2. Fast 50mm and one of 85mm, 90mm, 120mm, 135mm, 180mm fixed focal lenses with lense speed of f1.4 to f4 (35mm film format), which means no zoom lenses! Zoom lenses are of very much poorer quality, and their lens speed is a joke and is not what it is as advertised.
    3. Fast film of 200 ASA or 400 ASA. You may get away with 100 ASA when using a range finder camera, for sharper pictures.
    4. If you have a range finder camera like a Leica, you have an advantage of at least two speed stops over SLR cameras, because of the minimmal camera shake from the Leica shuttle over the vibration-generating SLR. A suggested Leica outfit would include an M3 (preferred) or M4 body with 50mm f2 summicron or f1.4 Summilux and a 90mm f2 summicron or a Tele-Elmarit 90mm f2.8 telephoto lenses.
    5. If you have an SLR with a lockable mirror, use this feature to minimize camera shake/vibrations.
    6. Use a shuttle release cable to reduce camera shake. Pressing the camera's shuttle release button with your index finger induces some camera shake.
    7. If you use colour positive films (transparencies) use the correct colour correction filters. With negative films, remember to tell your film processing lab to set the colour correction by using a gray card. These precautions will ensure you have true, vibrant and true colour pictures.
    8. Learn about the best way to hold a camera and click the shuttle for minimal camera shake.

  12. #114
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    taneepak,

    1) i see your point but for me it wouldn't be practical

    2) what do you mean zoom lens speeds are a joke? which zoom lenses are you talking about? cheap 70-300/4-5.6 types of lenses or expensive 70-200/2.8 types? is there something i should know before spending $1000 on a lens?

    3) i'm getting a dslr. iso800 or 1600 should be usable. excessive noise can easily be removed in photoshop.

    no comments about 4)-8) because i'm not familiar with them

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    I think you should wait for 30 days, Canon, Sony, and Nikon all have something new coming out recently, so some of the items should come down a little bit

    I have a Sony F707 now, it's been a pretty good camera (although it's not a pricy DSLR, but I say I can use it in 90% of situations without any problem )

    Are you sure you want to spend that much on the camera equipments? If so, you might want to consider the Canon EOS1D, which is my all time favorite (I always borrow it from my friend ). Lens wise, I would recommend some USM lens.....but I forgot which

  14. #116
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    Forgot to mention that if you're gonna go the Canon route, you might be interested in checking the Capture 1 software from Phase One Software. Their RAW image conversion software is arguably one of the best that is available, and it features an extremely efficient digital photo conversion / developing workflow. (In fact, C1 is so good that it just puts the Canon software that came with the camera to shame.) You can even download a trial version and use it for up to 15 days before deciding whether the software is for you or not.

    (The Capture 1 software also supports a few Nikon cameras as well, but since the D70 is so new, the software doesn't support it yet.)

    An alternative to Capture 1 is PhotoShop CS. Again, PhotoShop CS supports direct importation of RAW files from a number of Canon digital cameras (and probably some Nikons as well). However, I was told that the digital photofinishing workflow is not as intuitive and efficient as the one from Capture 1.

    -Rick

  15. #117
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    Originally posted by Mini Me
    taneepak,

    2) what do you mean zoom lens speeds are a joke? which zoom lenses are you talking about? cheap 70-300/4-5.6 types of lenses or expensive 70-200/2.8 types? is there something i should know before spending $1000 on a lens?
    A zoom lens is a variable focal length lens. Good lens design and performance parameters are different for different focal length lenses. Combining different focal lenses into one lens, called a zoom lens, makes severe compromises to such parameters. Some of the ills of zoom lenses include flare, poor resolution and lens covering power in the corners, astigmatism, lack of contrast, and its maximum aperture of f2.8 or the slower f4 (otherwise known as lens speed) are only for focussing and not really useable because of unacceptable picture quality. Zoom lenses are acceptable in video or movies because the moving pictures are forgiving.
    The faster and more expensive zoom lens of 70-200/f2.8 may in fact produce no better picture quality than the slower 70-300/f4 to f5.6. An f2.8 lens is 100% faster than an f4 lens or 200% faster than an f5.6 lens, so its only advantage is with the faster lens you can take pictures in much dimmer light than the slower lens. If lighting is not a problem, the cheaper zoom lens set at f5.6 or f8 will even out-perform the more expensive lens set at f2.8, provided both lenses are from the same class.
    A measure of what a really superlative fixed focal lens of 90mm f2, with no compromises, is its cost of at least US$2,000. An equally good quality 90mm f2.8 lens will cost US$1,500.
    I am a camera collector, but with a limited collection of about 50 cameras, mainly Hassablads, Nikon rangefinder of the SP type, Canon rangefinder and SLR, Leicas (both rangefinder and SLR), Zeiss cameras, Alpa and about 70 lenses. I did venture into zoom lenses once, but by the standards of my fixed focal lenses, the zooms were not acceptable and I was forced to sell them to the shops at giveaway prices.
    It all depends on what you want. If it is quality, forget zoom lenses and buy two fixed focal lenses instead, one 80mm or 90mm f2.8 and one 180mm-200mm f4.
    If you must really have a good zoom lens, then make sure it is an apochromatic zoom lens. Only an apochromatic zoom lens is acceptable. The word "apochromatic" must be engraved on the lens barrel. However, a word of caution, not all lens manufacturers take the word apochromatic seriously. An apochromatic zoom lens from Leica or Zeiss will be of higher quality than from Nikon or Canon. Other than these four lens manufacturers, apochromatic zoom lense from other manufacturers are usually not of the same class.

  16. #118
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    >Are you sure you want to spend that much on the camera equipments?

    that's why my dad always told me never to get interested in photography until i started earning my own money

    >I am a camera collector, but with a limited collection of about 50 cameras

    that's 49 more cameras than i've collected, so i think based on this, your perception of quality is going to be a lot higher than mine i still plan on getting a 50/1.4 or 50/1.8 to go with a 70-200/2.8. just need to wait until nikon and canon release their latest and greatest so i can afford their 2nd or 3rd latest and greatest toys

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    Hello taneepak. I have no intention of questioning your knowledge about cameras. However, lens manufacturing techniques have improved tremendously, especially with the aid of computerized design and manufacturing process. Ultra low dispersion glass, aspherical lens surfaces, low diffraction optics are only a few of the techniques that are used in zoom lens design. In short, zoom lens have come a long way since they were initially conceived and introduced. The current crop of zoom lens often approach the image quality offered by prime lens, or in some cases, even surpass them. I was just reading an article from a photography magazine, and columnist was writing how surprised he was to find out from a field test that the new Sigma 100-300mm f/2.8 zoom lens actually produced sharper and crisper images than his veteran Sigma 300mm f/2.8.

    Furthermore, in the Canon case, the 70-200 f/2.8 lens is denoted by Canon as one of their "L-lens". The L-lens are Canon's professional series, and the optical quality of these lens are quite a bit better than Canon's lessor offerings. Thus, compared to the 70-300mm f/4 lens, the f/2.8 lens will most likely outperform the f/4 lens at the same aperture and focal length. Furthermore, you also have the added flexibility of the extra f-stop (which is why the L-lens cost quite a bit more than non-L lens)


    -Rick

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