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05-16-2008, 08:19 PM #290
yeah... it really depends on the player, their level of skill, coordination, power, etc and the perfect tension is different for everyone. for example, I started off at 22 lbs (and was fine with it) but I bought a pre strung AT500 at 24 lbs and I loved it, so now I get all my rackets strung at 24
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05-26-2008, 12:14 PM #291
hi all,
In my opinion, I think 21 or 22 is the best. As this questions are mainly asked by beginners, this is the range that they should play with. For advance or more skilled players, they would have already adjusted to the their lbs or maybe adjusting to the increment of the lbs that they use. So beginners mostly like to play racquets strung at 21 or 22.
cheers,
eferata
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05-26-2008, 10:02 PM #292
the best for you is not the best for everyone
many beginner in my country play with 29lbs nowadays, cause they dont even have a clue what tension should applied
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05-26-2008, 10:39 PM #293
The standard of badminton in Indonesia is very high and I am not surprised that beginners there do play with very high tension, probably due to the influence of the players they play with or train with. Also the hot weather there also is condusive to use of high tension without frequent string breakage.
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05-26-2008, 10:47 PM #294
Actually, I no longer agree with the above. Every beginner can play with high tension of 29lbs easily if he or she learns the basic importance of using proper leverage in stroke-making. Leverage requires your stroke to have a swing cycle, and the cycle has a beginning, a middle, and an end which requires an increase in hand speed. The middle of the swing is when the swing is at its slowest, and then the final swing picks up or accelerates the "punch". With this hitting a shot at 29lbs is quite effortless and comfortable, not like a feeling of hitting a brick wall as an incorrect swing will give.
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05-27-2008, 02:50 AM #295
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05-27-2008, 02:52 AM #296
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05-27-2008, 07:02 AM #297
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05-27-2008, 08:21 PM #298
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05-28-2008, 01:57 AM #299
I play with new racquets all the time, afterwhich I sell them as used equipment. I play with my own invention, TEPSM, that has a special matrix not known in badminton. It also has no paint work and is carbon black, just a mirror-image of the insides of a mold. I use various strings, ML, PG66 Neon, PG66 Power, MP66, NBG98, BG85. I find all the strings very good, except NBG98 which has more brawn than brains. I still use NBG98 because I can fetch a higher price for my used TEPSM.
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05-29-2008, 09:12 PM #300
some of your fave string doesnt exist in my city, these are available: ML,NBG-98,BG-85...but once again they're not too popular, not many shop have the stock.
usually we're indonesian use bg-66 (most shop have this string), the other bg-65/85/80/65ti/68ti and once again not popular, and difficult to find
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06-22-2008, 11:44 PM #301
hi, i'm new here. I want to ask about tension.
I am a beginner player, and i have Armortec 250. What string tension are good for my Armortec250 if i'm using NBG95 or BG66 ???
I want a powerfull string, and excellent string, but its safe for my racquets.
thx!
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06-23-2008, 04:09 AM #302
Hi
String tension is a relative thing. There is no absolute answer. The variables are listed as follow:
1. Temperature
2. Atomspheric pressure
3. Humidity
4. Thickness of the string
5. Strength/power of the player
The general rule is that the higher the tension, the better the control but lesser the power/rebounce.
The higher the local temperature and humidity, the higher the tension. This has an effect on the elasticity of the string.
For example, in Hong Kong, string tension of #24-28 is considered normal. In Canada, it is normal to string to #22 in summer and #18 in winter. In Sweden, it is usually strung to #15-#16 in winter.
For the same reason, faster/lighter shuttles graded #6 or 80 are intended for average local temperature of 10C (range 7-13C), whereas slower shuttles of grade #2 or 76 are for average local temperature of 30C (range 27-33C). In between, #3 or 77 are for 25C(range 22-28C); #4 or 78 are 20C (range 17-23C); and #5 or 79 are for 15C (range 12-18C). This is because shuttles travel slower in colder air (densed air) and much faster in hotter air.
The thickness of the string affect the "true" tension as well. The thinner string of 0.66mm (e.g. Gosen: Alan & Susi) stung at #22 will have the same effect as a 0.70mm (e.g. gosen 70 Pro) stung at #24-26. However, the 0.70mm can go up to as high as #33 and is more durable.
Racquet tension is usually kept as secret amongst the top tournament players. They will bring with them their personal stringers in major tournaments.
Thanks
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06-23-2008, 05:01 PM #303
I tend to disagree with a lot of people on that, when they refer to high string tensions as less power. I feel that the high tension means less of a trampoline effect, where the mass of the shuttle can make it bounce off with a lot of force. The normally means more "control", as in the variable bounce of the shuttle is less existant, and one finds it easier to control the bird with their own power, instead of letting the bouncing bird control itself.
As well, with the absence of a trampoline effect, generating power is harder, because of less bounce. However, if enough swing force is provided to allow the strings to flex, the high potential energy in the strings, should cause power to increase. Except, if you cannot cause the string to bend, it will seem like there is no power in the racquet because there is no trampoline effect to aid in power generation.
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06-25-2008, 11:44 PM #304
thanks for your responses. your information is very useful. I'm still a kid. ( maybe teenager)
im only grade 10, and you know what power that I have.
My power is weak. and i just a beginner. So, what's your string reccomendation for me, for my AT250? because im so confused to choose the good string. thx!
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06-25-2008, 11:52 PM #305
Try BG66 at 21 lbs.
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06-26-2008, 12:32 AM #306
ok, i will try it! btw, is it too low?? ( 21lbs )
and what is the difference between BG66 Sharp and BG66???
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