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1. Well...as long as you as a stringer is consistent in your method and produce a lively stringbed with a reproducible dominant frequency, then that is all that is important.

2. unless specifically told...I have always interpreted "24 lbs" as 23x25.3 lbs instead of 22x24.2 (i see this as 23 lbs when i string) or 24x26.4 (i see this as 25 lbs when i string).

Although this is not exact i let my new clients know how i interpret their specified tension.

3. Originally Posted by DarthHowie
unless specifically told...I have always interpreted "24 lbs" as 23x25.3 lbs instead of 22x24.2 (i see this as 23 lbs when i string) or 24x26.4 (i see this as 25 lbs when i string).

Although this is not exact i let my new clients know how i interpret their specified tension.
chances are your 23x25,5 isnt the same as most other stringers' 23x25,5 anyways. Most important thing at this point is to offer consistency to your customers.

4. Originally Posted by blableblibloblu
chances are your 23x25,5 isnt the same as most other stringers' 23x25,5 anyways. Most important thing at this point is to offer consistency to your customers.
Agreed,

Stringing BG65 (even BG80)at 24lbs...after a week or two it will drop to max 22,5lbs. This implies that 80% of the time you will play with tension much lower then the requested one.

So get to know your clients and make some tiny variations until the feel is good for them.(best thing would be: don't tell them the tension so they are not biased by numbers, only the feel...but this can only be done with closer relatives) Then you must be able to reproduce the good feel over and over (keep sort of a "string-diary")

e.g. I string at 13kg to end up with 11,5-12kg, tension loss is inevitable with thicker strings...
That is why I prefer to say "I'll string it a little bit tighter to play 80% of the time with the desired tension".

5. Just strung a new Yonex VT-70, it was 20.1cm wide (at the last visible tube in the middle).Using a Stringway where the recommendation is to string the cross at +0.5kg (~+1lbs).

I did the mains at 10.5kg (~23lbs), after the mains, the body was 20.6cm wide.

Strung the crosses at 11kg (~24lbs), and the body was 20.1cm wide again. So this works for me...

If I should call this a 10.5kg or a 11kg job.... When people ask for 10.5 I do a 10.5/11. Most clients say it's feels harder than they are used to but that could also be the string, the constant pull, or the other stringer (or me

6. I used to string 28,5-31 lbs (13-14 kg) for over 3 years. I read the pros and cons about 10% extra on crosses and thought that because of the friction and the fact that the cross strings actually tightens the mains a little, you should use +10 % on the crosses.
Last time I heard someone saying, that the mains should be higher since they are longer than cross strings. So now I think that, since the cross strings actually tightens the mains, I use the same on crosses and mains.
Furthermore, when stringing +10%, I see that my rackethead is just a little smaller compared to same amount of pounds.
It all comes down to preference. I always used +10%. But since I last compared 28,5/31 with 30/30 I find the latter better in terms of feel. So now I always use the same for mains and crosses. Just try it out for yourself and go with the prefered method.

7. Originally Posted by pcll99
As a user of the racket (ie, as a client), is it better for me to have 23x25 instead of 24x24? or does it depend on the shape of the racket?

I use Li Ning G Force Lite 3000 and BG-66UM..

Attachment 141650
I don't know if anyone noticed, but the first cross seems like it was placed incorrectly causing a "diagonal" cross.

8. It is perfectly logically to add ~10% when stringing the crosses.

The extra tension is neutralized by friction on the mains. Stringing the crosses at tension exactly as the mains will almost guarantee you the crosses have lower tension than the mains, which you may risk deformatting of the racket frame.

Among the popular stringing methods, the Yonex's 2-piece method and the Victor's 1-piece method, state that you should add 2lbs/~10% to crosses, this extra 10% is referring to the "base tension (100%)" of mains.

That being said, if client asks for 24lbs, you should string 24x26. Not 24x24, 23x25, 22x24 and any other combinations. I would say this is pretty standard.

Everything has exception. The Gosen Haribito pattern does not require stringer to add extra lbs on crosses. But it is a more complicated stringing procedure, time consuming and economically inefficient.

9. Originally Posted by ya4dang1
It is perfectly logically to add ~10% when stringing the crosses.

The extra tension is neutralized by friction on the mains. Stringing the crosses at tension exactly as the mains will almost guarantee you the crosses have lower tension than the mains, which you may risk deformatting of the racket frame.

Among the popular stringing methods, the Yonex's 2-piece method and the Victor's 1-piece method, state that you should add 2lbs/~10% to crosses, this extra 10% is referring to the "base tension (100%)" of mains.

That being said, if client asks for 24lbs, you should string 24x26. Not 24x24, 23x25, 22x24 and any other combinations. I would say this is pretty standard.

Everything has exception. The Gosen Haribito pattern does not require stringer to add extra lbs on crosses. But it is a more complicated stringing procedure, time consuming and economically inefficient.

I found the Gosen Haribito pattern to be quite easy and efficient in stringing. I found I could string a racquet just as fast with this pattern than a 2-piece bottom up pattern.

10. The Gosen Haribito method is more than the pattern itself.

The aim is to maintain frame shape as much as possible, at the same time maximize the sweet spot and minimize tension loss. It may sound easy, but when you factor in different tensions, strings and rackets, the possibilities become practically infinite.

11. I have an Arc11, it's a 3U and my max tension is 24lb (according to my racket). I realise most Yonex rackets can withstand tensions much higher than this.
But is it safe to say, I can safely ask my stringer to string 24x26 without worrying about my racket deforming?

12. Originally Posted by iLondon
But is it safe to say, I can safely ask my stringer to string 24x26 without worrying about my racket deforming?
Safe? With a competent stringer, absolutely - pros use them well past 30 lb.

Actionably safe? Not really - if the racket breaks above 24, Yonex can legally wash their hands of it (as long as they can prove it was used above 24, that is).

13. It also depends on the condition of your racquet. Sometimes very fine cracks develop around grommet holes that may not always be visible.

14. hi.

just wondering, is there a 5U racket which I can safely have it strung at 23x25 lbs? thanks.

15. Originally Posted by pcll99
hi.

just wondering, is there a 5U racket which I can safely have it strung at 23x25 lbs? thanks.
I do one of my client's Arc FBs at 25/26, and that's two divisions lighter than 5U. The Arc 6 should be fine - I've never seen a racket fold at 25 that wasn't already broken.

(If you need even more assurance, Mogensen plays his Arc FB at 34/36.)

16. Try Apacs Feather Weight 300, Weight: 75-77g (6U), Max Tension: 35 lbs.

17. Originally Posted by Mark A
I do one of my client's Arc FBs at 25/26, and that's two divisions lighter than 5U. The Arc 6 should be fine - I've never seen a racket fold at 25 that wasn't already broken.

(If you need even more assurance, Mogensen plays his Arc FB at 34/36.)
Thanks. Arc6 seems good. Better price than ArcFb.

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