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  1. #18
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Next time you do a racket, check the contact between the 6 o'clock support and the frame after you've pulled the two middle mains - the frame often sinks in slightly at the top as the loadspreader takes up the strain. If there's a gap, adjust the 6 o'clock and carry on.

  2. #19
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    OK, makes sense. about halfway through the crosses I noticed the top mount was loose. I think its close enough to be usable but sweetspot might be weird.

  3. #20
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    Next time you do a racket, check the contact between the 6 o'clock support and the frame after you've pulled the two middle mains - the frame often sinks in slightly at the top as the loadspreader takes up the strain. If there's a gap, adjust the 6 o'clock and carry on.
    so you alternate sides? I copied my stringer and (I think he does this...) do 3 one side, 4 the other, then alternate two pulls each side. I'll try your way as in not sure if paranoid or if my meteor is slightly rounder one side. not noticeable when tracing round the frame on paper though.

  4. #21
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    I think my mate gave that Carlton a 9. 100% more power and control but snapped in game 6 from a terrible miss hit right next to the frame. smashed it out the park! the sound is incredible

  5. #22
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DuckFeet View Post
    so you alternate sides? I copied my stringer and (I think he does this...) do 3 one side, 4 the other, then alternate two pulls each side. I'll try your way as in not sure if paranoid or if my meteor is slightly rounder one side. not noticeable when tracing round the frame on paper though.
    After a turn, I always pull the nearer main first, for two reasons:

    a) this means neither side gets more than one ahead of the other, which gives the best possible L/R balancing (there is no speed advantage going 2/4/4/4/... because you still have to turn the racket the same number of times)

    b) when you start one-handing the clamps and bases, it's easier to move the nearer one first because you don't have to reach around it with your left hand to get to the far one. (This is going beyond the scope of what the beginner should care about - we're talking about years of tweaking and streamlining - but it's a good habit to get into.)

  6. #23
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    had to put the knot in about b12, not proud of that at all. back to Yonex double back to free up b10 or whichever it is for the tie off.

    also moving to top down as I think my upper mounts are too high. I uno I saw frame movement at the 6th or do cross from the end which is definitely worrying.

  7. #24
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DuckFeet View Post
    I uno I saw frame movement at the 6th or do cross from the end which is definitely worrying.
    Don't worry. Really.

    Have a look at this video - there is some significant movement when he pulls the crosses, particularly the middle and top ones.



    The support arms will spread when you do the mains; the racket movement is the arms relaxing again. As long as you still have contact with the frame afterwards, you're fine.

  8. #25
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    Just did a top down and by the last 4 crosses the top mounts were loose. Racket survived though! 25lb crosses on a 28lb max. I'll add pictures at some point

  9. #26
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    Not proud of a knot in a shared hole but I couldn't see any other way.


    fraying already? Or just a coating?


    Latest effort. My first misweave
    on a spare and just testing the string so I did it for free so not worth cutting it to redo. I did the yonex double back to tie off in B6. Much better. I did +2 on the crosses - where can I read about resulting racket shape vs sweetspot properties? I'm yet to playtest this one but the rounder white one seemed very forgiving at crosses=mains.

  10. #27
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    Yes I do Top Down pattern as well and this happens to me also, so i make sure after a couple crosses pass the first shared hole i always make sure the top is still tight but not tight enough to change the racquet head shape. I believe this is just a small problem in machines which are not too expensive

  11. #28
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    Just a brief update. That carlton is the correct shape judging by the one that was just newly purchased. It certainly played well.

    and a slight tangent:
    The 2nd restring was 24/26 BG80p and a little less forgiving. Now I'm not sure if it is the vectran making it feel harder on a misshit/differnet repulsion characteristic or the different ratio of mains to crosses affecting the sweetspot. I'll pick a thread to discuss that after some more experimentation. I thought it played fine if a little less powerful. Initially. Currently It's hitting bombs such that my MD partner is now the rear court man and I'm taking the net.

  12. #29
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    I need to include a picture of this nanospeed because I'm thinking of using different holes than stock.

    Skip B10 not B11 and move T9 to 10, 10 to 12 and 12 to 14 for more parallel mains. They'll be shorter and moved further round the frame obviously. Is this a terrible idea? Probably will have no effect but I've lined up something similar on the slazenger, less drastic though.

    I'll add photos to my photo bucket album so they should be visible from those already posted if you are interested enough to go and take a look.

    I'm also going to start using a business card in the string puller to see if these random fraying sections disappear.

  13. #30
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    This same racquet has come out the same wonky shape. Argh. Done 24lbs. I can cut it and redo at like 18lbs but it might even come out bent again. Sigh. Use it til it breaks is my only option I think. At least I get to test the string...

  14. #31
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DuckFeet View Post
    Skip B10 not B11 and move T9 to 10, 10 to 12 and 12 to 14 for more parallel mains. They'll be shorter and moved further round the frame obviously. Is this a terrible idea?
    You're trying to get two strings through holes designed for one - I doubt it will work unless you pre-weave it, and I really wouldn't advise it tbh.

  15. #32
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    I think this is more relevant here than Zymax thread. But I was surprised that Zymax 67@24 lbs 48hours old is ringing higher than z62@22 after 3 weeks + some use. I would have expected them equal or the 62 to be higher. The 62 is Victor 80 hole pattern vs 2ptd on a 72.

    I wonder how ZM65 will feel this time round as it always feels tighter than the frequency suggests. now I'm looking at 24-27lbs depending on string, from 22lbs last season and 16-18 the one before. Feels good!

  16. #33
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    2nd go with black string, second missweave! I've ordered a reel of this stuff, oops. Should sharpen my skills though and I need my work to stand out from the usual white and yellow.

    Apart from the racquet trying to escape from the machine in the last crosses the result feels good and is symmetrical. Play test on Monday. I wonder how long the progressive setup lasts vs normal.

    And I skipped that extra top cross as durability isn't an issue for now.
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  17. #34
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    Did last one drunk, no pictures of that mess! It's about a -15 on missweaves alone. I don't recommends it.

    Photo: cutting it way too close! I need to start taking notes of how much string to measure now that I have a reel.
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