Dear BC stringing group members, I'd like to share a stringing pattern with you all. I recently joined a group called Taiwan Badminton Stringer and Services Association (TBSSA) and found the Spider stringing pattern from the group. A brief introduction of TBSSA: TBSSA is a newly formed group and lead by Dr. T.C. Liang. The group is formed by enthusiasts who plays badminton and stringing regularly. The goal of the group is to promote the stringing to general public and lead researches in various aspects in stringing. The Spider stringing pattern is a one string- two knots stringing pattern. The main advantage of Spider pattern is Zero or very slightly frame distortion when stringing. This provides good protection on the racket when stringing. String length needed: I use a 10 meter package and made short end roughly 4.25~4.5 racket length and leave the rest for the long end. Annotation in chart: Red is long end; Blue is short end. Black are the tie locations.
Is that the only benefit? I'm looking at that and thinking that stringing really shouldn't be that fussy.
[MENTION=96935]dbswansea[/MENTION]: I believe minimum distortion is one of the main advantages of this pattern. Some other advantages include (1) Because of the 3 layers of around the world, racket frame is protected at weak spots. This is good when stringing at very high tension (2) Sweat spot crosses are top-down for people who like the feel of stringbed when it's strung this way (3) Seems only need one tension for both main and cross (4) Only need to deal with one covered hole in 76 hole pattern.
I just strung my ARC Z-Slash with this method at 23lbs, though it's quite complicated but I liked it. I agree with [MENTION=109833]wlotus[/MENTION] about the advantages of this method.
Please note. DO NOT use this method for any Yonex racquet under warranty as it is not recommended. 1) Not sure about your claim. May be for the new string pattern on the newer style racquet. But for the older style, it actually add unbalanced stress on the left of the racquet as you can see there are 3 over laps between c8-c11 and one below. 2) If you like the feeling, why not just use 4 knot with top down 3) Agree 4) Yes. But more blocked hole in top racquet. For old string pattern, I would not recommend this pattern. For newer pattern, try at your own risk.
I just strung this pattern today and was it a pain to learn. I found finishing off the short side, then stringing the long side made the job alot easier
[MENTION=44492]xZhongCheng[/MENTION]: While it's easier to get the short side completed before working on the long side, it defeats the purpose of this pattern. The pattern is aimed to provide as much protection as possible on the racket frame by doing around-the-world three times as early as possible. [MENTION=64099]Udonming[/MENTION]: Please ignore the last cross at B8-D8.
Please clarify the connection of 27 & 28 I couldn't link them together, how do the other people work it out?
[MENTION=109833]wlotus[/MENTION] Unfortunately, I do not have a starting clamp, also using a Neos 1000... the clamps dont really make this pattern practical.
[MENTION=44492]xZhongCheng[/MENTION] I'd recommend you to invest a good starting clamp since it's a very useful stringing tool with several usages. Unfortunately, you're right, this pattern is not practical when you use slide bar type of clamps. However, I did know someone who was able to try this pattern with flying clamps.
There is no definite answer on this question for any kind of pattern since the final outcome really depends on how you mount the racket, how you string, the racket you have, how you like the feel of stringbed...etc. If you really need a recommendation, try main = cross first.
I have a pair for MBS 6 teeth Floating clamps. I have found a nice solution. I used of the neos clamps and took it off the bar and i kind of used it as a starting clamp. I have done this pattern twice but also messed up a few times. I still string the cross 10% higher than the mains.
@wlotus I ended up finding a Pro Pro Starting clamp from Racquet Depot UK and it was quite affordable. ($25 ish CAD) In the mean time, I was using the Neos 1000 sliding clamps as a starting clamp to hold the top crosses. This pattern is actually quite easy once you figure out the flowpath.
Here is a video I made for this pattern: [video=youtube;WFl4hs8kRFc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFl4hs8kRFc[/video]
