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  1. #1
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    Question String Clamp Help

    I'm new to stringing. I just purhased my first stringing machine but I havn't used it yet because it is the off season for me. Come September, I'll likely be stringing 2-3 rackets a week so I'm eager to start playing around with it now so I'll be practiced come the beginning of the season.

    I've mounted a racket and can already foresee a problem I will run into. I purchased the EAG-300, a glide bar, hand crank machine. After a few modifications, It appears to be a solid machine, comparable to a Gamma 4000, but I'm still going to run into crowding issues while stringing. I cannot clamp the top and bottom cross strings. This is especially true when mounting an Isometric. The 12 oclock mount at the head, plus the bottom supports near the 1 and 11 oclock positions don't leave enough room for the bulky glide bar clamps so I cannot clamp the 7th grommet from the top. I run into similar situations near the throat at the 8th grommet from the bottom, but only when stringing Isometrics. I'm hoping somebody here can give me a solution, (a work around) especially where the head is concerned, because I have no way of tensioning this final cross string before tying off.

    I would like to avoid purchasing a floating string clip just for this purpose, but if its the only way, can somebody point me to an online store that sells clamps and string for a descent price. I can't find equipment locally around here. Thx.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoIso4Me

    I would like to avoid purchasing a floating string clip just for this purpose, but if its the only way, can somebody point me to an online store that sells clamps and string for a descent price.
    Try www.hiquasports.com, they do sell Yonex-like flying clamp (don't know quality, though) and offer good price in strings. Not sure they willing to ship to CAN or not. If they do, make sure they use USPS, as UPS and FeDex might result into more tax/fee.

    For clamps only, you can also check www.klipperusa.com

  3. #3
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    avoid using a floating clamp by using an awl.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoIso4Me
    I'm new to stringing. I just purhased my first stringing machine but I havn't used it yet because it is the off season for me. Come September, I'll likely be stringing 2-3 rackets a week so I'm eager to start playing around with it now so I'll be practiced come the beginning of the season.

    I've mounted a racket and can already foresee a problem I will run into. I purchased the EAG-300, a glide bar, hand crank machine. After a few modifications, It appears to be a solid machine, comparable to a Gamma 4000, but I'm still going to run into crowding issues while stringing. I cannot clamp the top and bottom cross strings. This is especially true when mounting an Isometric. The 12 oclock mount at the head, plus the bottom supports near the 1 and 11 oclock positions don't leave enough room for the bulky glide bar clamps so I cannot clamp the 7th grommet from the top. I run into similar situations near the throat at the 8th grommet from the bottom, but only when stringing Isometrics. I'm hoping somebody here can give me a solution, (a work around) especially where the head is concerned, because I have no way of tensioning this final cross string before tying off.

    I would like to avoid purchasing a floating string clip just for this purpose, but if its the only way, can somebody point me to an online store that sells clamps and string for a descent price. I can't find equipment locally around here. Thx.
    The Eagnas 300 is basically a tennis racquet machine with extra glide clamps for badminton. If you are using the badminton glide clamps and you still cannot get around the problems, you can try this :
    For the first cross string along the head grommet 7, you can either skip it and start pulling at the second string at grommet 8. Or you can clamp the first string at grommet 7 at the centre.
    For the last cross string at the bottom grommet 9, you can try to use the clamp at the centre, pull the string out from grommet 9 and pass it through grommet 7, then pull and tension the string coming out from grommet 7 but on the opposite side. When doing this make sure the string is just skimming the frame and the the racquet is held immobile. After this, you have no choice but to use the awl and poke it into the bottom grommet 7 from the outside towards the inside of the frame. When using the awl be careful the pointed part of the awl does not poke any of the two strings in the grommet. To finish off, you just do a double reef knot at grommet 7.
    If you decide to use a flying clamp, make sure it can fit both the top grommet 7 and bottom grommet 9, otherwise you are just wasting your money. Flying clamps are better at cross strings than at main strings, because of the additional anchoring from the two parallel mains.

  5. #5
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    It is very strange that a stringing machine that can string both tennis and badminton racquets has trouble stringing an Iso badminton racquet, especially when it comes with badminton glide clamps. If your machine has a height adjustable glide bar, you may want to raise the bar and use the clamp at an inclined angle to get into the crowded first and last cross string areas. I suggest you check with the supplier if you still have problems.

  6. #6
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    Thumbs up

    Thx for all your replies.

    I emailed my supplier with my concerns and am ready to order flying clamps similar to the hi qua clamps, only they are made of aluminum. I wan't to avoid using an awl as a substitute for a clamp because it places extra stress on the frame of the racket but I will use it for the time being. Thx for the suggestions Cheung and taneepak. Also, I AM using the BADMINTON glide clamps, and lowering or raising the glide bars won't fix anything on this particular model. The machine, to my surprise as well, just crowds too much near the outer crosses. Your suggestions seem great for stringing Yonex rackets with the Yonex PATTERN, as I would be tying off at the throat, but I was hoping I could string with a 2 knot method for quicker jobs when needed, but that won't be possible since I would have to be tying off at the head where the crowding is unavoidable at the 7th grommet from the top.

  7. #7
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    Try not to use the awl to hold the the last strung string tension if possible. If you have to use it, don't be too ambitious by using the awl too tightly to minimize tension loss, as both the rubber grommet as well as the grommet hole will enlarge, which you don't want to do. You can replace a rubber grommet but you cannot do anything about an enlarged hole. It is very easy to enlarge a grommet hole without knowing it. Just take out a rubber grommet and poke the awl through the naked hole until you meet resistance, and if you force it in a little more, you will have an enlarged hole.

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