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Thread: Changing Grip Size
07-01-2004, 04:08 AM #1
Changing Grip Size
Currently i own a G5 racket and i find the grip too small(All my other rackets are G4). How should i do it without adding too much weight to the racket?(and thus changing the balance etc)
Should i just put on two pics of the same grip or is there anything i can put on to increase grip size?
07-01-2004, 04:44 AM #2Originally Posted by Helbreath
If you're handy you can glue thin strips of balsa wood, cut to size, to the sides of the handle. This of course temporarily removing the original grip to expose the wooden handle. This method increases grip size without adding much weight.
Or just do like the rest of us: add cushioned grip tape. It does change the balance slightly, but it won't matter much.
07-01-2004, 09:30 AM #3
well ive seen the balsa wood idea work but in most cases, your bound to screw up your whole racquet, the easiest approach is to either sell it or get used to it..
07-01-2004, 02:09 PM #4Originally Posted by dragon62
2. Remove the original grip. Change to a thicker one. Same as #1, balance point might shift, but should be acceptable.
3. If u really having trouble with it, trade it for a G4.
07-01-2004, 03:30 PM #5
Could also glue layers of cork matt to the handle if you like spongy grips, other than that you can get grip tubes which are like cricket bat grips when they are pulled over the handle you heat them to shrink them and they add thickness to your handle without much weight.
07-01-2004, 11:33 PM #6Originally Posted by Helbreath
07-02-2004, 12:23 AM #7Originally Posted by Mag
But, as I have said elswhere, this concern about maintaining the racquet's original weight, brought about by an overgrip, is an exercise in futility, as it serves no purpose. You might as well take off your watch or a ring on your finger.
07-02-2004, 12:49 AM #8
i prefer to strip the grip off all the way to the wood. to make it thicker i dont use a primary layer of grip but masking tape or anything of the sorts work wonders. it protects the wood and you can make it as thick as you want.
normal grips use as an under layer degrades and can get quite yucky after a while.
besides it is cheaper to you tape than buy a grip. cheapo i am hehehe
07-02-2004, 04:19 AM #9
Here`s a related question.
Two rackets. Both grips feel identical. One is g4 the other g5. The g5 has been built up with layers on undertape. What will the balance points of these rackets be like? A g4 has to be SLIGHTLY heavier than a g5 right? Not a huge difference I`m sure, but just curious.
07-02-2004, 06:53 AM #10Originally Posted by MarkinJapan
07-02-2004, 01:56 PM #11Originally Posted by taneepak
Example: (not exact data)
MP-99 2UG4 might weights 92grams
MP-99 2UG5 might weights 91grams
The extra wood could be 1 gram in weight (or more or less), but both 91 and 92 grams are still in the 2U range. Again, this is just a thought, the only real way to test is to buy both rackets and weight it and see if they are the same weight or not.
IF the above statement is true, IF the wood does weight more, and 2UG4 really weights more than 2UG5, say , by 1 gram or so, the balance point would also changed a little bit.
07-03-2004, 02:30 AM #12Originally Posted by bluejeff
Back to the question of a 3UG4 vs a 3UG5, it is not true that the latter is marginally lighter than the former. If you take 100 3UG4 and another 100 3UG5 racquets, the two groups would have almost identical weight. True, the G4 has a larger circumference, but it has a lighter silicone counterweight than the G5's counterweight in the hollow tunnel of the handle. Do you know that you can reduce a good 2-4gm of a racquet by just taking out the silicone counterweight? Some racquets have no silicone counterweight because the choice of the handle fits well with its U classification.
07-03-2004, 02:40 AM #13
By the way, do you know that you can dampen racquet vibrations if you fill the handle's hollow tunnel with either epoxy, silicone caulk, or any hot melt glue? The original silicone caulk that comes with the racquet doesn't completely fill up the hollow tunnel, as its sole purpose is to balance the weight specification. Despite the increase in weight, it shouldn't affect your racquet's first moment of inertia, pick-up weight, too much as the hollow tunnel is at the same spot as the axis of rotation.
07-03-2004, 01:46 PM #14
Yes I also buy a electronic scale for racket mesurements...
Seems the U that Yonex claims is unstrung (And without anygrip also?)
So a set of string adds aound 5-7 grams...a over grip also adds 7 grams...
07-03-2004, 01:49 PM #15
I also noticed TI 7 light and TI 5 light, what makes them 3U...maybe Yonex dosen't really "makes" them lighter, just because they are standard lenth...If add 10mm they will be 2U haha
07-03-2004, 08:16 PM #16Originally Posted by vincenterika
The length has the least to do with the weight, there are tons of other factors affecting the weights, say, ie: materials, designs, hollowness...etc.
That's why we have both regular length and the long length rackets in the same weight categories, say, ie: 2U Cab20(regular length) and 2U MP-100(long length).
Think about a gold brick that is less than 30cm, but it weights like crazy.
07-03-2004, 08:18 PM #17Originally Posted by taneepak
MP-100 3UG4 and 3UG5.
Even there is only a 1g difference, it is still counted as difference.
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