Hello people. My friend recently invested in a stringing machine so I thought I'd take advantage of that and experiment with some of the higher performance strings compared with the BG65. I was using BG65Ti's at 23x25lbs and felt comfortable with it power and control wise. But I have to say that it lost its tension alarmingly quickly and would estimate it was around 21x23lbs, but was still playable even if I had to really whack it to get a baseline to baseline clear. Then I did a bit of strength training and I've never hit harder but the strings seem to have lost yet more tension after a little while longer. It's probably only 19x21lbs at most now. So now I'm waiting to string some BG80's and don't really know which direction the tension should move in proportion to the thickness of the string if it should change at all, so if anyone out there with experiences similar to mine, your recommendations would be most appreciated. Cheers.
I would recommend BG80 at 23X25lbs. It won't last if it's any higher. For supposedly thick durable strings like BG65, BG70PRO or BG65Ti. I would recommend upping the tension to over 25lbs for better control and playability.
As BG80 is a bit thinner than BG65/Ti, maybe just stay with 23/25 or consider lower it by 10%. Since u have a machine there for u, I guess it's worth to take several tries to get to ur ideal "combo".
Haha, I might have the labour side of the costs covered but there's still the issue with the supply of the strings. It's too pricey to experiment that much in one go for a non-income student like me. There's the issue with loss of tension as well which was particularly noticable with the BG65Ti's. Does the tension of the string affect how well it retains it in any way? I forgot to mention that I had a few rallies with a friend's MP99 which was strung with an Ashaway something... Rally 21 maybe, but I know it's 0.74mm and it was at 26lbs. I'm pleased to say I was made to look like total beginner with it... just couldn't handle it.
I am all for high tension of beyond 26lbs. High tension will bring a new dimension to your game. Of course you will need some time to get used to it, as your timing will need to be re-adjusted. Only high tension will make your shots faster as there is no time lag from too much trampoline effect of low tension. However, high tension needs some special handling, to maximize string service life and minimize tension loss. One no no is the use of the awl to facilitate insertion of the crosses or the tightening of the tie-off knots. Also, a special starting knot must be used if you were to pull and tension the first cross string at 30lbs, otherwise this knot will contribute to unnecessary tension loss. With high tension, a mishit with the shuttle striking a single main string at the top of the frame will snap the string. With lower tensions this is not a problem. One way to find out if your racquet is well strung is to test the slack of the four border strings, i.e. the top and bottom crosses and the two extreme left and right main strings. If they can be pulled to almost touch the inner side of the frame, you have a serious problem. Almost all stringers in Hong Kong do not handle the two main side strings well, due to wrong stringing technique. This is also true of stringing practices in some other countries, from the few racquets that I have examined.
Whoa, slow down there. All my restrings (from other stringers) have been on the 23, 24lbs mark and I didn't think that a difference of 0.02mm in the string would warrant such a big change in the tension. I planned to start at my usual 23x25lbs and work my way up pound by pound. My technique isn't great. In fact, I've only been playing this game seriously (at least weekly at a club) for coming up to two years. I have never had any coaching of any sort and therefore feel that I haven't quite got the fundamentals secured under my belt. Having said that, I can hold my own quite comfortably against the players at my club who play in the B league of my county (there's Premier, A, B, C and D) so I must have some worth. You having second thoughts about recommending me to use high tension yet, taneepak? I mean, I would gladly have the feel and control the BG65Ti at 23x25lbs gave me for the first few hours or so but as I mentioned earlier, I really disliked the fact the tension went down so much so soon. Makes the strength training I did seem rather pointless but I suppose back to square 1 is better than -1. Regarding the stringing methods, I've really got no idea. I've never actually seen this machine or know an of the tools my friend has bought and I haven't tested the border strings on any of the many rackets my friend has restrung at my club. I guess I'll drop by and visit you to learn a few trades when I go to HK next summer or even this coming christmas. Got university commitments this summer.
A newly strung low tension racquet will not play well initially; it only gets better after a day or two of playing. A newly strung high tension racquet will play at it's best effective with the first hit. I am not sure why, but I suspect newly strung low tension racquets need a lot of help to equalize their uneven tensions.
Hey people. My BG80s arrived today and wasted no time in going to my friend's house to string my MP30. He's a very inexperienced stringer and I hardly know anything about it at all, so I'd appreciate as much feedback on his work as possible. This was actually the first two-string/four-knot job that he did. I would show you all with images but a family member has taken the digital camera for work so I'll have to be as descriptive as I can. Sorry. His tools including an AM-200 stringing machine and a couple of clamps. Assuming the holes are lettered A and C for the left side for mains and crosses respectively. Likewise B and D for right side. They are also numbered from the middle two holes at the bottom of the racket head from 1 and all the way up to whatever it is to the top of the racket head. I think that's how it works, correct me if I'm wrong though. It has 22 main strings. It has 23 cross strings. The left most main string goes from A26 down to A12. The right most main string goes from B26 down to B12. All the holes from 26 to 36 are occupied with a main string at least. All holes from 1 to 12 except 11 are occupied with a main string at least. The top most cross string goes from C30 to D30. The bottom most cross string goes from C8 to D8. No holes are bypassed between 8 and 30 with cross strings. A knot is tied off at B31 after the top most cross string at D30. A knot is tied off at A7 after the left most main string at A12. A knot is tied off at A5 after the bottom most cross string at C8. A knot is tied off at B7 after the right most main string at B12. Sorry if this all seems rather vague but I'll try and get images up as soon as I can but any feedback would be great help. Cheers.
You're leaking hot air again. -what if a racket was strung <26lbs and 2 edge strings can be stretched to the frame side, u say it's bad. Your good stringing technique can prevent this, say at 21 lbs? - so ur saying your test on a PT'ed racket is a bad job in your book? From a few rackets u have observed, u can claim you're the best and junk the rest(internationally)? Obviously u haven't drop by Calgary
