Strings + Moving

I find that if the strings are strung around 25 pounds there isn't much moving going on at all. Also if you hit a bit wrong and/or with the racket at a angle on impact it will increase the risk of the strings moving.

On my 7K I have the 88ti which suits my play very well. I find that the 65ti is really interesting if you wanna have a string for a long time with the expense of propulsion and control comp. to, for example, 68ti and 88ti.

Try and see how you hit the shuttle and if it's good then maybe it's time to upgrade strings ... or wait until you can have higher tension (22 and beyond I recon is minimising the risk of moving...)

oh and the ti strings are actually a bit rough/coarse due to its coating. atleast compared to the normal 65 etc

 

The strings move because....

- The string tension is very low

- The movement of the string is caused by slicing.

I don't think they are harmful to your racquet, just push them back in to place and you're rdy to go

 

22 lbs??? u sure u got a real racket man?? even the 3u has 24 lbs reccomendation...

ps. if it is real then it can easily handle 25 lbs (i strung mine @ 31 lbs no sweat)

 

The yonex recommendation is trash. Your racquet won't break if your tension goes over

 

If you go over its recommendation, does it have potential to damage the frame? i mean.. wouldn't it be taking a lot of stress?

 

In my humble opinion I think the 65 strings are the worst , for me atleast.
Ti strings are quite different and I find that they hold tension longer and that it's a bit easier to get the shuttle to spinn when slicing, netplaying etc...
The 80 is 'known' for it's good repulsion but I dont think its good regarding control. The 85 on the other hand is a very popular string that gives feeling control and good repulsion. I use 88ti cause I want the string to 'grip' the shuttle and send it tumbling over the net, because of its rough coating, and because of this I loose a bit of repulsion but its not really noticable unless you really really try and feel it(I might as well be imagining it ).

I got the ns7k too and it's recommended tension is up to 24 pounds. If strung above this then I think the guarantee fails you if something happends. If you say your limit is up to 22 then I wonder if it's a 2U(weight of racket?) or if there is any doubt if it is a real Yonex racket?

The reason for stringing at a higher tension is that I get better control in netplay etc where I really need a good feel for the shuttle. But beware, if you have a slower swing speed then it will affect your game negatively overall if you string too high because it will be like hitting the shuttle with a cricket bat(hugely overexaggerating thoughbut the principle is good). When I had played badminton for about 4 years I still had my rackets at 22 pounds roughly because my racket were headheavy(lower swingspeed) and thus neded the extra 'bounce' from strings that weren't strung too tight.

At present, with my 8k and 7k, I string at 24 pounds because the 7k is rather headlight thus allowing me to swing faster. Without knowing anything about youre level of badminton and all of that I would recommend you to not string too high but rather try a friends racket(make sure its rated"stiff" if its a yonex) and get a feel for different tensions.
Another guess! of mine is that, unless you have been playing for several years, you will get the most powerful set-up with a tension around 22 pounds.

geez...I have done alot of speculations haven't I I hope you find something of relevance to your situation. Gotta go, too bad I had to rush this all


The 7k is a fantastic racket, by the way, and is certainly a better choise over the 8k if you aren't used to stiff rackets or has a high level of play. nice choise...

 

The NS7000 and NS8000 are built for different purposes and each possess very different qualities. The 7k is rated as stiff whilst the 8k is rated as extra stiff so only this will affect how they are felt by different players. There is so many variables that so many over look...ita almost rediculous Some people seem to forget that different ppl swing w different speeds, have more muscles than others, have player longer, are taller, shorter, fatter, have preferred strings and tensions to mention a few of probalbly a hundred different factors.

If you recon the 7k feels kinda empty, then Im sure its not a real yonex one. Mine, strung at 24x23 pounds with bg88ti is the sweetest racket I've used(that is how I!!!! feel it and this should not be regarded as some general statement plz)

If you havent played with original and/or several rackets then it's very difficult to tell you what to look for. Experience and testing is really the best way to find what suits you the best concedering you and I probably differ at most of all those qualities that different players have.

Good luck with your rackets and all. It can be made very easy if you dont really care what you play with but I like to feel a good shot... therefore I like to change variables and try other stuff all the time to find my optimum set-up.(I'm sure some people dont have a clue what I'm talking about and they go like "uuuuuhhhh, doesnt he hit the shuttle?? uuuhhhhh wheres my beer?")

 

Do you know what kind of racket you have? is it 2U, 3U or 4U i.e. whats its weight?

 

Mine is 3U too and that has a max recomended tension of 24 pounds. My racket costed about 17000Yen which is 202AUD

If its below(significantly) this price then I cant see how it would be an original yonex... but if youre new to badminton theres and cheaper(and better than fakes) yonex rackets

 

Manual machine or a electronic machine strung? Manual strung, when you pull, the power and strength is not there even if you set a high tension. For electronic, it will be veri stable. Or First few times, it will move, after awhile it will be seasoned...

 

Use price to judge whether a racket is real or fake is nowhere near accurate (unless it's an obvious case). Price varies base on the regions, and even in the same city, u might be able to find a significant difference in price.

Price high = real, price low = fake is totally wrong. If a fake seller lable his rackets as US$200 each, u think everything must be real? If a reputable dealer gives out 25% off promotion, u think he must be a fake seller???

With all the possible sources I can access, I can get a NS7K for US$165 up to US$200+ (all US based stores). You can easily see, that's a 20% difference right there.

 

What I said, is use price as reference to judge a racket, is not a good method. Whether the racket itself is real or not, u need to use other method (i.e. serial #) to determine.