Prescretch string Vs Normal string

For the Pre-Stretch Experts: please post all your different methods of prestretching string. Thanks.

 

Never, I use string that doesn't see any benefit (or very little) from pre-stretching. I use BG-80 exclusively on my own rackets and sometimes BG-85 for friends. BG-65 probably needs a bit of pre-stretching but no one ever requests it.

 

you see that button with "Search" on it
click on that and type "Prestretch OR pre-stretch"

 

Here is what I think about pre streching.

After unpacking a single pack string. Fix one end of the string to an unmovable object (table, wall etc.) mount the other end of string to a tensioner (ie your stringing machine) Tension the string at the tension you are going to use to string the racquet for a 30 sec to 1 min.

Of Course you must have a very big room if you want to tension a 10M string. What I usually do is to wrap the string halfway around a door handle across the room. then I mount both end of the string on the machine and pull at 30lb of tension for about 30 sec. Another way is to pre-strech the 2 strings after you cut them by same method.

I do not believe pre streching will make your string thinner to make any difference because the string will go back to the same gauge after you release the tension. However, the string do not coil during stringing and less likely to form kinks after pre streching. I do not think pre streching will prolong the durability of the string. I do believe (an tried many time) that playability is longer and string holds same tension longer by pre-streching.

If you have a electric constant pull or drop weight machine, pre- streching is not as important to get a good tension. However, it does get the coil out of the string.

 

Silent Heart: good points, especially getting the coils out. I'm going to start pre-stretching just for this. Thanks.

 

Personally, I see two benefits in prestretching: working out coil memory out the string and taking most of the slack out of it. The former is especially beneficial when working with individual 10m packets. It's so much nicer to work with nice straight strings rather than coiled ones.

The latter is beneficial when working with stretchy strings (e.g., Hi-Qua B-696, BG-65) and crank/lock-out machines at high tension settings. Because the string keeps stretching, it'd drop the overall stringbed stiffness minutes after the job's done. It's not so much of a problem when using constant-pull machines (i.e., dropweight or electronic with a constant-pull feature) because the machine would compensate for the stretch. (Well, electronic ones would, the stringer'd have to re-tension when using a dropweight.) It's not always convenient to do so when using a crank.

There are ways to compensate for the string stretch on a crank (e.g., tension twice, tension 10%--20% higher, etc.); but, I always believe in giving my customers what they ask for. If they ask for 28lbs., I'm going to give them as close to 28lbs. as possible everytime, not 31 or 32.

Anyhow, to pre-stretch the string, I just clamp both ends together using a starting clamp, loop it around a door knob and lean back on it until I feel the spongy, stretchy feel is no longer. Anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute.

FWIW, HTH.

 

30 to 60 seconds is a small price to pay for the added benefits. Thanks, I'll try this.

 

Depending on how strong your pectoral muscles are, you can even prestretch the string as you measure them using the armspan method. That's how I used to work out most of the coil memory before I start using a door knob. It doesn't take out the slack---I'm a weakling ---but, it's enough to straighten out the string.

P.S.: I do "measure" the string even if I'm using an individual packet. Reading some tips on another stringing forum, someone mentioned that for speed and efficiency purposes it's pointless to pull strings you're not going to use. So, from experience, I cut about an arm and a shoulder length off of a 10m set. That's enough to complete a racquet.

 

Don't really agree.

If you don't pre-strung the racket, and using low tension with 2 pieces (4 knots) method, cut such a major piece out of the pack will only end up in trouble. Mostly, you will run out of the extra string tails, which is necessary to tension the last piece of string, as well as tighting the knots.

 

I guess I've short arms.

If I cut an arm and a little shoulder (i.e., just past my armpit) length piece, and string 2-piece at a low tension (<=18lbs), I still have more than enough for tie-offs. Even accounting for snipping bits here and there to make points. My current measurements are: 3 armspans for mains; 2 armspans + 1 arm and 2 shoulders for crosses.

There's another reason why I cut a piece off of a 10m set. I find that the distance from the pantry doorknob and my backyard door is not comfortably sufficient to prestretch a full string length, especially the stretchy ones. I'd have to pull using only my arms to do it instead of just holding on to it and leaning back. So, basically, I either have to cut a short piece or sell my house and buy a bigger one. I thought the first option is a little more economical.

 

Duh...
dont pull it from the end of the string
pull it from where you would have cut it
it doesn't matter so much if the ends are not prestretched because the ends would be the excess string anyway.
Then you still have the safety of having the full length of string

Prestretching small lengths at a time, particularly using muscle strength, will not give a consistent stretch throughout the length of the string.

 

You would probably benefit from prestretching BG65, but don't do it on BG80 or BG85.

 

Any reason why no on 80 and 85? What are the downsides?

 

Well, even after I cut it, I won't be using the ends because they'll be the "extra" bit that I use to tension the last main/cross.

I've wasted some cheap reel strings to get the measurement down. That last arm-length is just not worth pulling through for me.

I agree. That's why I mentioned that it doesn't really work out the slack, more just to work out the coil memory. And that's why I started using the doorknob way.

 

My office has a 50'+ hallway so I'm all set, too.