how do you do it? why do i hear "starting clamp" wherever i ask..what is it? I pull threw the first 4 mains. put a clamp on teh far left string. tension the most right. clamp it. string the most left (teh one already clamped) and take of teh clamp: with me: my dorpweight drops a bit. retension and clamp... what wrong with this (what are the effects?!?) and when does the starting clamp come into mind?
It sounds like you have a fixed clamp machine, in which case you don't need a starting clamp. It can be useful for starting tensioning when you do not have fixed clamps. Do you still pull the centre 4 mains with one pull ? !
Even with a consistant pulling machine, pulling 4 mains in 1 shot (ok, as 1 from each side) is still not as good to me. There's friction between string and gromments, and it will take much longer for 4 pieces to fully stretch to desired tension, when compare to 1 or 2 pieces.
I have fly clamps. 4 in total (if it's needed). what do is more liek this: pull threw first 4 mains. the longs ends are at LH2, and RH2. put a flying clamp at LH 1,2 and tension the long end of RH2. clamp that. grab the long end of LH2 and tension it, remove the clamp at LH 1,2, let the tension set in. clamp it back. the end.
If with low tension, and long enough settle time for each tensioning, in theory it will be ok. The only remaining proble is, after tension RH2 (1st tension), you clamp a tensioned string with an un-tensioned one (RH1 I suppose), there should be significant lose of tension. Somehow, i think it will present some problems in certain degree. If work with high tension, and don't have enough settle in time, the quality will be in big ??? I think.
With good flying clamps only, personally I think it's fine up to 25-26 lb range. Any higher than that, you will suffer quite noticeable tension lost. Here's the way I start, with a self-made start pin (a key ring attached with a short piece of string tail). Note: TH stands for Top Head, BT stands for Bottom Throat. 1. Loop string through LBT2, LBT1, LTH1. Use 1st clamp on LBT2 + LBT1. 2. Tension string outside the frame of LTH1. Insert start pin from outside to inside (string tail piece) into LTH2, and clamp inside on LTH1 (already tensioned) and start pin (string tail). 3. Loop string throught RTH1, RBT1. Tension outside RBT1, then move the clamp #2, to clamp on RBT1 and LBT1 (notice since clamp 1 is in the way, this clamp could be a bit toward top, right above clamp #1). 4. Remove start pin. From now on, you always have an already tensioned main string, to be "paired" with the newly tensioned main, to be clamped with flying clamp. Work on left and right alternately, to maintain balance.
Pardon me, all. I am a newbie in term of stringing. I have a little problem with the startup sequence. I am using a two-point drop weight machine. Borrowed from a friend. I have 4 Hiqua flying clamps but no starting clamp. I do make myself a little starting kit (a short string tied to a keyring). Not sure how I can use it in my situation. Desire stringing tension <= 25 lbs. I have pre-strung the racket with two loops on either side for tensioning as shown in the picture (pardon me for my poor drawing). The problem I have is I do not know where to start and where to clamp assuming starting from the main, 1. A little guidance on startup sequence will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hi SiezTheDay, Starting pin method does not work well when you pre weave the string. Often time, the staring pin (or the short string tide to keyring) can not pass through the B1 (T1 grommet). Since you also do not have starting clamp, I have 2 suggestion on how to start the process. I am using Yonex term here. A1 means grommet 1 from the top. B1 means grommet 1 from the throat. A) 1.Start by clamp the 2 strings on the B1 and B2 where you draw the extra strings outside of the frame. This will act as a starting clamp. 2.Pull on the string from the other side B1 then clamp on both B1s. 3.Then pull on A2 on the same side and clamp on A1 and A2. 4.Pull on the A1 with sudo staring clamp and clamp on both B1 from inside. 5.Pull from A2 and clamp on A1 and A2 on the same side. B) (Cheating method) 1.Clamp on A1s with clamp#1. 2. Pull through A2 and clamp A1 and A2 on the same side with Clamp#2. 3. Repeat step 2 for the other side with clamp#3. 4.Pull from B3 on the same side and release Clamp#1 and the clamp on the same side. You need to retension the string because the weiht usually drop a little more than your set weight. I will post pictures later this week if anyone request it for both method.
Thank you, SH. I simulated the process with your instructions and it stopped at the last step of each method as shown in the picture (provided than I read them correctly). I used the simple term as ease of understanding: L = Left; R = Right; T = Top; B = Bottom Method (A): 1) Use #1 to clamp on RB1 + RB2 from outside. Is this correct? 2) Tension LB1 then use #2 to clamp on LB1 + RB1. 3) Tension LT1 then use #3 to clamp on LT1 + LT2. 4) unclear? Method (B): 1) Use #1 to clamp on LT1 + RT1. 2) Tension LT1 then use #2 to clamp on LT1 + LT2. 3) Tension RT1 then use #3 to clamp on RT1 + RT2. 4) Tension RB3, release #1 then use #1 to clamp on LB2 + LB3. Please corret me if I don't do it right. Thank you.
Method A 4) Remove Clamp#2. Pull from RB1 to tension rightside of the string(might need to tension 2 time). Then remove Clamp#1. Now 3 strings (L1,2 and R1 are tension correctly) 5) Clamp LB1 and RB1 with Clamp#1 6) Pull from T2 then clamp on T1 and T2 with Clamp #2 Note: I will suggest you to use a piece of the old string to clamp on right side of the clamp#1 instead of use the entire B slag string because it might bend the slag string when it is pulled. Sorry about that. I hope this is clear for you. By the way, where is Midwest?
Silent Partner web site has an execellent video on stringing, it is for tennis but the concept is the same for badminton racket as well. It demonstrates how to string racket from start to finish. http://www.sptennis.com/stringer.asp
