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  1. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_M_V
    After 2 hours of huffing and puffing I finally got my first racquet strung . End result isn't very good (planned to have 20 lbs tension, but ended somewhere around 18 ), but nonetheless it was a good learning experience .
    ...
    You may want to get a hold of a tension calibrator and check whether the dropweight markings are spot on. Also, make sure the pole can move freely with as little friction as possible.

    Congratulations on your new machine.

  2. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quasimodo
    You may want to get a hold of a tension calibrator and check whether the dropweight markings are spot on. Also, make sure the pole can move freely with as little friction as possible.

    Congratulations on your new machine.
    Good tip, I think the dropweight markings are way off. After 5 stringing jobs I'd say there's some 2 kg (4 lbs) difference between the markings & actual result. I mean the actual result is 2 kg less than should be according to markings. Though I'm using one piece stringing technique which might explain part of the tension loss. All in all I think I'm getting a hang of the actual work - again thanks for the help guys!

  3. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_M_V
    Good tip, I think the dropweight markings are way off. After 5 stringing jobs I'd say there's some 2 kg (4 lbs) difference between the markings & actual result. I mean the actual result is 2 kg less than should be according to markings. Though I'm using one piece stringing technique which might explain part of the tension loss. All in all I think I'm getting a hang of the actual work - again thanks for the help guys!
    Not to question about your skill, but I won't draw a conclusion just after several trials. There are many small things can greatly effect the tension:

    1. Clamps. The way you described, seems to be a good source of tension lost. By "twisting" the string, you will lose tension, once it's going back to straight. Don't ignore the extra 0.5cm u created. That might equal to 5lb tension lost!

    2. Knoting: Well, this is one of the major source of tension lost.

    3. For drop weight, sometimes, u want to give it several sec to let the "levler" settle down. You will be surprised about the difference, as the leveler might "sink down" another 20' or so, after several seconds. This is specially true for stretchy strings (i.e. some gosen ones, BG65/85, etc)

  4. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by LazyBuddy
    Not to question about your skill, but I won't draw a conclusion just after several trials. There are many small things can greatly effect the tension:

    1. Clamps. The way you described, seems to be a good source of tension lost. By "twisting" the string, you will lose tension, once it's going back to straight. Don't ignore the extra 0.5cm u created. That might equal to 5lb tension lost!

    2. Knoting: Well, this is one of the major source of tension lost.

    3. For drop weight, sometimes, u want to give it several sec to let the "levler" settle down. You will be surprised about the difference, as the leveler might "sink down" another 20' or so, after several seconds. This is specially true for stretchy strings (i.e. some gosen ones, BG65/85, etc)
    Currently my skills can and should be questioned . I think it takes quite a few stringing jobs before the end result is consistent.

    You are right, part of the loss comes from the first two points. That is why I just ordered two badminton flying clamps. For knotting I guess you always lose a bit of tension, but this can be taken into account during tensioning (add a bit extra which you lose while knotting). Third point sounds interesting, have to give it a try. Though if I'm using always the same string (BG80) and do the stringing the same way, then perhaps the end result should be quite the same anyway (=doesn't matter even if the strings stretch a bit)?

    BTW Maybe it is just me being butterfingers but even the sixth stringing job took me about an hour... I'm hoping that the flying clamps takes some 10 - 15 min away from this.

  5. #22
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    Personally, I say by using drop weight machine, it will take you at least 40+ min for a decent job. Of course, this is based on my lowly skill and fat fingers. In general, it takes a bit longer due to the way it tensions the string and perhaps lack of ability to "pre-string".

  6. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by LazyBuddy
    Personally, I say by using drop weight machine, it will take you at least 40+ min for a decent job.
    Good to know that it is not just me... . BTW trying to do it quicker without actual skills took even longer - by rushing I just got the strings tangled all around.

  7. #24
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    It takes ages to do proper string job on a drop-weight machine. Every string I get to wait at least ten seconds. Often I let the weight drop vey slowly to avoid breaking the frame.

  8. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_M_V
    Good to know that it is not just me... . BTW trying to do it quicker without actual skills took even longer - by rushing I just got the strings tangled all around.
    No rush.

    I would rather take 60 min to do a good job, rather than 45 min to rush and make mistakes. Unless u open business like string 10+ rackets per day, guess everyone can afford to spend an extra 10-15 min per day to get a good job done.

  9. #26
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    You are faster than me. I usually take 1 hr 45 mins .

    Quote Originally Posted by LazyBuddy
    No rush.

    I would rather take 60 min to do a good job, rather than 45 min to rush and make mistakes. Unless u open business like string 10+ rackets per day, guess everyone can afford to spend an extra 10-15 min per day to get a good job done.

  10. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD
    It takes ages to do proper string job on a drop-weight machine. Every string I get to wait at least ten seconds. Often I let the weight drop vey slowly to avoid breaking the frame.
    if you are going to wait for the string to stretch every time you pull, you might as well pre-stretch the whole string before you start stringing.

    an extra benefit is that it takes some of the coil memory out of the string so it's easier to work with

  11. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls
    if you are going to wait for the string to stretch every time you pull, you might as well pre-stretch the whole string before you start stringing.

    an extra benefit is that it takes some of the coil memory out of the string so it's easier to work with
    Do you mean with pre-stretching that you do the stringing somehow twice? Could you explain more? I've noticed that using strings from 200 m roll is a lot easier - in 10 m rolls strings are packed much tighter, and when unrolling the string I tend to make a huge mess. Pre-stretching, as you said, would most likely help.

  12. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_M_V
    Do you mean with pre-stretching that you do the stringing somehow twice?
    Either with string from a packet or from a reel.
    Before you start stringing the racquet
    take your full length, say 10m, and stretch it for 30-60 seconds.

    I stretch by putting a starting clamp on each end, put the middle around a circular knob on top of the post at the top of my stairs, and pull both ends together.

    Then cut it into 2 pieces if you are going to do 2-piece stringing.

    How hard to pull and for how long?
    open for debate.

    How hard?
    no more than the tension you are going to string at maybe
    (if you double the string around something you have to pull 2x as hard)

    For how long?
    different for different string thickness, construction
    (gotta go to a meeting...more later maybe, but as usual a search will probably turn up previous discussions)

  13. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls
    Either with string from a packet or from a reel.
    Before you start stringing the racquet
    take your full length, say 10m, and stretch it for 30-60 seconds.

    I stretch by putting a starting clamp on each end, put the middle around a circular knob on top of the post at the top of my stairs, and pull both ends together.
    Very similar, but I clamp both ends with 1 clamp. I also wear a glove when I pull. Easier on my hands.

    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls
    ...
    How hard?
    no more than the tension you are going to string at maybe
    (if you double the string around something you have to pull 2x as hard)
    I wondered about just much tension I put on a string when I prestretch it, because I was a little worried that I stretch it to its breaking point, so I tried to "prestretch" my calibrator. I know this is highly unscientific and all, but it still gives me some rough idea about the amount of force I put on the string. To my surprise, it's barely above 20 lbs. I leaned back as far as I could and it still wouldn't budge from the 20 lbs. mark. I suppose I'm slightly less worried about prestretching strings now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls
    For how long?
    different for different string thickness, construction
    (gotta go to a meeting...more later maybe, but as usual a search will probably turn up previous discussions)
    I think most stringers would recommend about a minute. I do 2 minutes.

  14. #31
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    are you sure that you want that machine? i have just ordered the pros pro comet 1, which is there top of the line free standing crank model. it is only 275 + VAT, i ordered it from http://www.watdon.com/wd_home.html , delivery to the UK is free but im sure you could organise some way of delivering to you. read this thread: http://www.badmintoncentral.com/foru...489#post366489 it has a picture of the comet 1 and some details, if you are interested in pros pro machien then http://www.watdon.com/wd_home.html has all of them including the challenger I which is at a very cheap price; 225 + VAT

  15. #32
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    Seems like the Comet 1 has suspension-style mounting arms. You may want to ask whether you need an extra kit to mount badminton racquets on it. Because often times the arms end up being too long and/or don't close enough to grip the frame. Just as an example, Babolat offers a badminton/squash kit for their machines which contains, among other things, deeper billiard posts(?)---they're the head and throat support posts, not quite sure what the technical term is---and extra slip-on side paddings to make sure the side supports would sufficiently grip the racquet.

    But, if you can make it work, I think this type of a mounting system is the way to go. Provided that it's well-made, of course, just like everything else. It's a little quicker to use---4 controls instead of 6---and is less likely to block holes.

    FWIW.

  16. #33
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    The Babolat badminton kit sells for CAD 649 in Canada!!! Freaking expensive . . . I can get a pretty decent Eagnas crank machine for that amount of money.

  17. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD
    The Babolat badminton kit sells for CAD 649 in Canada!!! Freaking expensive . . . I can get a pretty decent Eagnas crank machine for that amount of money.
    I didn't say it's cheap. I just said it's available.

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