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Thread: Crank vs Dropweight?
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02-27-2006, 12:19 PM #18
Dear Sir DinkALot,
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
When did I become a heartless one???
Anyway, I use 3 clamps because I find it works as good as using 4. It is just like the 4 claimps method except I only use 1 clamp on the side I am not working on. I move one right and left depend on which side I am stringing. I usually string 2 main on each side before I switch to the other side. Usually 2 fly clamps (and no, I don't clamp my fly with it) are used for cross because I feel that is enough...
Have a nice week!
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02-27-2006, 12:27 PM #19
This is exactly what I am doing as well. With a constant pulling machine (i.e. drop weight), you don't have to care too much about the extra tension lost on the non-working side of main, as it will be pulled evenly, when you tension that side. The extra clamp on the working side is mostly needed, once u finished tensioning the last main on the side, and trying to make the knot. This is the only critical moment, due to possible tension lost.
Originally Posted by silentheart
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02-27-2006, 12:47 PM #20
You're right. I only used the flying clamp in emergencies (i.e., when the fixed clamps couldn't quite clamp the last top cross). But, I've since readjusted the way I mount frames on the machine and have no more need for the flying clamp, so far.
Originally Posted by LazyBuddy
I'd've given you mine.
Originally Posted by LazyBuddy
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02-27-2006, 12:52 PM #21
You have one or some Yonex fly clamps you want to get rid of? I maybe interested.
Originally Posted by Quasimodo
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02-27-2006, 04:10 PM #22
I've one. Practically new, used less than 5 times, no original packaging.
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
Let me know if you're interested.
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02-27-2006, 04:15 PM #23
Sure, please PM me.
Originally Posted by Quasimodo
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02-27-2006, 10:49 PM #24
For crank machine owners, there is something you can do to make it hold its tension like in a constant pull machine. You will need a tension calibrator. All you do is set the crank machine tension to say 25lbs, crank and pull on the calibrator, and when the crank stops you will see 25lbs. Now leave it as it is for a few seconds, roughly about the same elapsed time it would take you to clamp the tensioned string, then read the tension on the calibrator. It should read lower than 25lbs, maybe 24lbs. The latter is your crank's rough equivalent of the constant-pull tension; it will also prolong your stringing time. Another method is to set your tension at 26lbs if you want a tension of 25lbs, without waiting for the tension to drop back from 26lbs to 25lbs. This way you save some time.
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03-23-2006, 04:53 AM #25
Yonex flying clamps
I'm surprised by the comments about the Yonex clamps.
I've used the old (blue) ones for about 7 years and never had any problems, stringing up to 32lbs.
I'm not sure what kind of problems you could have, it's such a simple device. Did the string actually slip out of the jaws or something?
I've got larger fixed clamps with badminton sized jaws, but I've used them just once, just to see how they performed. They're okay, but soooo slow compared to the Yonex clamps (or clips, which is what they really are).
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03-23-2006, 05:05 AM #26
I have the newer black Yonex clamp and it's not that good compared to the Hi-Qua Fly Clamp. The Hi-Qua clamps tighter, is easier to maneuver and just easier to use overall. If you're happy with your old clamps, that's great.
Originally Posted by david14700
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03-23-2006, 07:21 AM #27
I have both the new (black) and old (blue) ones. Seems the old ones are a bit better in performance, as it appear to hold a bit tighter in high tension (25+ lb). However, if you mainly working with low tension, same, 24 or below, I really don't see too much difference, especially with a consistant pulling machine.
Originally Posted by david14700
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03-23-2006, 03:32 PM #28
Well, I think this depends on what you're used to. IOW, if you're used to flying clamps, then double-action fixed clamps would feel slower. If you're used to the latter, then flying clamps would seem more cumbersome and slower.
Originally Posted by david14700
And, it also depends on the make and quality of the clamps too. From what I've read, the Babolat Sensor and Star 5 systems are very smooth and quick to use.
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04-15-2006, 11:55 AM #29
I'm on the verge of buying a stringing machine as well. Just like taber, I'll choose either the Challenger, or the professional 1000.
Initially I wanted to go for the Challenger, because of the fixed clamps (which I can get replaced by badminton-clamps for free) and because of the constant-pull tensioning system. However, the shop-owner said that the Pro1000 would be better, because it's a badminton-only machine. The Challenger would be much bulkier, and isn't as sophisticated. He also said that the mounting points would be blocking two grommets.
Perhaps, someone like taber, who allready owns the machine could provide some experiences, with either the challenger and the Pro1000. Thanks in advance!
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04-15-2006, 04:31 PM #30
No offence to the shop owner intended, but I'd take most shop owners', especially ones you don't know personally, words with some grains of salt. As you should too with anonymous suggestions you get in an online forum.
Originally Posted by Erwin

If you're lucky enough to get your hands on either machines prior to purchasing one, I'd strongly suggest you do just that. Bring a frame---strung or unstrung---mount it on both and see how you like them. See if you can adjust the mounting such that the side supports fall in between holes. See how smooth the actions on the swivel clamps are. BTW, speaking of blocked holes, unless I'm looking at different models, both machines you mentioned have 6-point supports. So, either side supports could potentially block holes. I don't see how one would be more problematic in the regards than the other.
FWIW, HTH.
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04-16-2006, 03:36 PM #31
That's exactly why I asked it here. I'll take your statements more serious than those of the shop owner.
Originally Posted by Quasimodo
Unfortunately that's not an option, the store is about 250km away (150 miles or so). The shop owner just happened to be at the Euro Championships, where I spoke to him.If you're lucky enough to get your hands on either machines prior to purchasing one, I'd strongly suggest you do just that. Bring a frame---strung or unstrung---mount it on both and see how you like them. See if you can adjust the mounting such that the side supports fall in between holes. See how smooth the actions on the swivel clamps are.
That's exactly what I thought, but from what he said, it sounded like it was more of a problem with the challenger, because the supports are bigger.BTW, speaking of blocked holes, unless I'm looking at different models, both machines you mentioned have 6-point supports. So, either side supports could potentially block holes. I don't see how one would be more problematic in the regards than the other.
FWIW, HTH.
If the supports are the same as on Dinkalot's machine (wich is also an Eagnas machine) shown here. It doesn't look like much of a problem to me...
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04-16-2006, 05:23 PM #32
Yes, my Eagnas Flex 940 supports are good. They don't block much at all.
Originally Posted by Erwin
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04-16-2006, 05:31 PM #33
Had anyone thought about the Prince Neo 1000 Spring Tention Pull machine?
http://www.princetennis.com/product/...43&Product=765
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04-16-2006, 05:38 PM #34
Yep, I looked at it, no doubt a good machine but it only has a 2-point support. For Bad, I feel we need at least a 4-point corner support. I do know quite a few that have been using a 2-point support for years with no problems.
Originally Posted by Matt
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