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    Default Vertical/horizontal tensions? help please

    I am currently using a badrus evolution 757 with bg65 at 23 tension. i dont think its different vertically or horizontally. i am getting a yonex nanospeed 8000 at bg 80 (hoping its the best string). should i get it at 23 overal since thats how i have it on my current racket or get it at two differnt tesions. if so which tension? i just recently heard about the vertical and horizontal tension being different. so i dont know what it does. thank you.

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    there are some threads on string tensioning if you do some searching, usually the mains are about 2 - 2.5 lower then the crosses, however the tension of the crosses bring it back up to whatever it is. as long as its a pro stringer, just tell them what tension you want and let them decide on the mains. i beleive this formula is used to maintain the shape of the racquet head, someone correct me if im wrong. BG 80 has decent sound repulsion and control but depends on personal preferences for string.

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    Why I choose BG 80 is because BG 66 snaps too fast maybe within a month or 2. While BG 80 last longer. Repulsion and precision wise I think BG 66 would be > than BG 80. Durability wise BG 80 > BG 66. BG 80 is 0.02mm thicker than BG 66 and that made quite a bit of differences in terms of durability alrd.

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    On tensions I think the general rule is for a differential of about 10%. So you can go for 22/24 but if you go higher you would probably ask for 27.5/30 or 27/30.

    I think the main reason for this is to stop the frame warping, but I am no expert on stringing so might be wrong.

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    The other reason is to maintain the original racket shape by doing higher tension on the cross. However, do keep in mind not all rackets follow the 2 lbs or 10% difference. The type of string and the frame has a lot to do with it as well. Always refer to the manufacturer's chart for the correct tension.

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    The 10% higher tension for the crosses will result in an effective tension that is 10% lower after stringing. That is the reason for the higher 10% tension for the crosses, because the crosses have to weave up and down the mains and are not in a straight line, and the crosses also bump up the tension or tightness of the mains in the process of stringing.
    I do repair some cracked racquets (simple cracks or fractures at the 4 corners) which can be strunged at very low tensions of 20lbs/22lbs. I find the additional 2lbs cross tension about right to ensure the repaired sites don't separate again.

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    Hi guys & gals,

    I have just got my racket strung at 25/24 like Neil Nicholls from another thread.
    I am curious as to why some people string their racquets at 25/24 and not 25/27 because what taneepak said above makes so much sense. What are the effects of stringing your racket at 25/24 compared to 25/27. How would it affect the racquet ???
    I am so confused, the reason why I am asking this is because when I strung my racket in Australia by Xinsports they wrote down 25/24 for my racquet. When I came back to Malaysia, Etakoh in KL, strung it at 24/25 and now after reading this forum, should I have got it strung at 25/27 ?? As you can see, I am so confused.

    Thanks in advance !!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kikks9
    Hi guys & gals,

    I have just got my racket strung at 25/24 like Neil Nicholls from another thread.
    I am curious as to why some people string their racquets at 25/24 and not 25/27 because what taneepak said above makes so much sense. What are the effects of stringing your racket at 25/24 compared to 25/27. How would it affect the racquet ???
    I am so confused, the reason why I am asking this is because when I strung my racket in Australia by Xinsports they wrote down 25/24 for my racquet. When I came back to Malaysia, Etakoh in KL, strung it at 24/25 and now after reading this forum, should I have got it strung at 25/27 ?? As you can see, I am so confused.

    Thanks in advance !!!
    Personally, I don't do the 10% difference between cross and main strings on badminton rackets, including yonex badminton rackets, for even around 26lbs. A difference of 1 lb is adequate and my customers do like the racket/string response.

    I have been stringing for many years and have not found it affect the racket in a bad way by not stringing a racket at the yonex recommendation of 10 - 15% difference between main and cross strings.

    Cheers.

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    My personal experience has been:
    For Oval shaped rackets there is no need for the additional 10% increase in tension for the crosses but for the ISOmetric rackets additional 1 or 2 lbs(depending upon how high the tension is) for the crosses actually brings back the original shape of the frame.

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    For tournaments, the current trend is towards even tension for the main and cross.

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    I feel this is dependant on the stringing machine and how it secures the racket frame. If you have a 2-point machine, a 10% difference between the main and cross is usually needed. If you have a good 4-point or 6-point machine, my experience is a 1lb. difference is just fine.

    I recently started going to a 1lb. difference on my Eagnas Combo 910 and it's been just fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD
    For tournaments, the current trend is towards even tension for the main and cross.
    Tourneys use first-rate stringing machines with stringers to match (usually); hence, I agree, there's really no need to change tension.

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    So, will you go even tension in the future ?

    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot
    I feel this is dependant on the stringing machine and how it secures the racket frame. If you have a 2-point machine, a 10% difference between the main and cross is usually needed. If you have a good 4-point or 6-point machine, my experience is a 1lb. difference is just fine.

    I recently started going to a 1lb. difference on my Eagnas Combo 910 and it's been just fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot
    I feel this is dependant on the stringing machine and how it secures the racket frame. If you have a 2-point machine, a 10% difference between the main and cross is usually needed. If you have a good 4-point or 6-point machine, my experience is a 1lb. difference is just fine.

    I recently started going to a 1lb. difference on my Eagnas Combo 910 and it's been just fine.
    Actually, 2-point machine doesn't need a 10% difference between the main and cross. I have personally used a 2-point machine with a 1 lb difference between them with success. This is of course for around 26lbs. Above that involves some interesting techniques.

    Cheers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jayes
    Actually, 2-point machine doesn't need a 10% difference between the main and cross. I have personally used a 2-point machine with a 1 lb difference between them with success. This is of course for around 26lbs. Above that involves some interesting techniques.

    Cheers.
    Please read more carefully, I wrote it's usually needed, not always.

    From my experience, usually with a 2-point and 0-1lb. difference, the racket is still slightly off shape. After stringing, I compare with an unstrung racket of the same model and it's usually a tiny bit rounder. Nothing to worry about, but I prefer a 10% difference on a 2-point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD
    So, will you go even tension in the future ?
    Naw, my stringing machine is just pretty good to good, not first-rate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot
    Please read more carefully, I wrote it's usually needed, not always.

    From my experience, usually with a 2-point and 0-1lb. difference, the racket is still slightly off shape. After stringing, I compare with an unstrung racket of the same model and it's usually a tiny bit rounder. Nothing to worry about, but I prefer a 10% difference on a 2-point.
    From my own experience though, 1 lb difference can still maintain minimal distortion using 2-points machine. I, too, compare a strung to an unstrung same model.

    Indeed, to each his own and which ever works best for you. Did we just confuse the OP or reader more?

    Cheers.

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