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07-23-2006, 02:38 AM #35
DinkAlot, how about looking at the following when stringing?
1. Do not stretch the two N/S posts. First, fix the throat post, then move the head post to the inner top frame and touching it. Do not stretch it. The frame is correctly mounted if you can still lift the racquet off with a little resistance. If too much resistance then you are stretching it a bit too much. If the racquet comes off the machine after stringing with more resistance than when you mounted it, your racquet has already been stressed. Second, mount the 4 side V-shaped or other-shaped side supports to just cradle the 4 sides, without any force. Third, try stringing the crosses from the middle. I have a feeling that the top part of the frame could have been stressed.
Just some thoughts which you can consider or discard.
07-23-2006, 04:05 AM #36
might as well an alumimum racket, at least its going to be stiff and wouldn't break(at most deform?)
or just use a squash racket for god sake if you want fancy materials and not breaking it :P
07-23-2006, 10:18 AM #37
Eepak: not sure this post belongs here but I'll reply.
Thanks for the advice. I do exactly as you say in your recommendations below except that I string the crosses from the throat to the top, a la one-piece string job.
With my new machine, Eagnas Combo 910, I found that I don't need a 10% difference between the main and the cross strings; a 1lb. is good enough most of the time, 2lbs. for string jobs at 29lbs. or higher (this brings the racket back to the original shape, or at least closest).
Also, I've shown my string jobs to quite a few professional stringers and they all have said my stringing is excellent, no problems.
I string mostly for myself and my double's partner and for a few other people as well and they have not had any problems with my stringing. Not one. Though I am not a pro stringer like you, PeteLSD, Lazy Buddy or Cooler, I'm confident I do an adequate job. In fact, I was going to get USRSA (United States Racket Stringers Association) MRT (Master Racket Technician) Certified but decided against it because one, I really don't need it as I just string for myself and a few friends and two, if people find out I'm an MRT, more and more people will want me to string their rackets and I don't have the time.
Finally, I don't just break rackets I string, I have broken many pre-strung or other people strung rackets as well. I'm certain it's not a stringing problem, it's more of a DinkALot bad luck problem.
Originally Posted by taneepak
07-23-2006, 10:27 AM #38
Thanks for the welcome!Originally Posted by BadFever
Nah! he has improved So much, when i first met him. and let me tell you. For a Guy who only play for a little over 1 year. he improve more then anyone i know!...
GOOD JOB MONGO! ( that's what i Call him) Keep up the racket demolition!
07-23-2006, 11:15 AM #39
Dink, why don't you try an ATW pattern for a change? It's also a 1-piece job, but there's less stress on the 10-o-clock positions because you tension the crosses top-down.
07-23-2006, 11:45 AM #40Originally Posted by Erwin
07-23-2006, 11:55 AM #41
There are many different versions you can try or you can figure on out yourself.
You once showed your 1-piece bottom-up very clearly on a Ns9k, prehaps you can show me how you did that and I will do the same for my pattern.
07-23-2006, 12:03 PM #42Originally Posted by Erwin
I have a theory...
...you and Jerry just like conversing with me (on this Forum) for the sake of conversing.
I'm just fine with my string pattern. Rackets break for me, it's just a fact of life. I don't mind, I have four D600s on order, they will be here next week.
07-23-2006, 12:09 PM #43Originally Posted by Erwin
1) Main: I go from hole 9 to 11, then back to 10.
2) Crosses: I go (counting from the bottom to top) from hole 18 to 20 to 19 to 21 to 22, then tie-off. Sometimes I do 18 to 20 to 19 to 22 to 21, then tie-off. I haven't concluded which is better 22 to tie-off of 21 to tie-off, both have their merits.
I go from 18 to 20 because I pre-string each racket and if 18 to 19, sometimes the string gets twisted. Going from 18 to 20, it avoids this.
07-23-2006, 12:25 PM #44
I don't think there's 1 ATW pattern. IOW, there are many variations of it. The easiest is a straight box pattern. Basically, for the short side, you leave out the last main and tie off at the head. You do the long side as usual, do 1 cross at the bottom, go up via the last main and then do the crosses top-down. The common theme in ATW patterns is that you have to make sure that you wouldn't end up with 2 adjacent same-weave crosses. That is, if you have an odd # of crosses, you weave the top and bottom crosses the same. If you have an even #---as usually is the case with badminton racquets---then you weave one over and the other under (with respect to a main string).
Clear as mud?
Here's my pattern courtesy of my ex-pro stringer. On the short side, you lace the mains as usual, when you get to 9T, go to 10T up to 10H over to 8H, do the top two crosses and tie off. So, you end up with 1 less main (i.e., the last one). On the long side, again lace the mains as usual---I use the YY recommended pattern, so I end up at 10T---over to 9T (assuming 22 crosses) and do the bottom 3 crosses. A reminder here to make sure you count the crosses correctly or you'd end up with adjacent same-weave crosses. Anyhow, after the 3 crosses ending up at 11T on the short side, over to 12T up to 11H and do the remaining crosses going down. Tie off at 13T or further down. I usually try to find the closest possible hole.
P.S.: T: Throat. H: Head.
07-23-2006, 01:51 PM #45
Some people post just for the sake of posting . . . siggggghhhhh
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
07-23-2006, 01:54 PM #46Originally Posted by Pete LSD
Don't try to give me any more of your racket warranty claims.
07-23-2006, 01:57 PM #47
No, not you . . . ha ha ha sorry for the confusion.
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
07-23-2006, 02:03 PM #48Originally Posted by Pete LSD
In other events, I have four D600s on order and they will be here late next week (I think I already posted that). In the mean time, I got another Woven 7 to try to see if I can get used to it as I believe it's closer in specs to the D600 than the W11. But we all know how "specs" go...
07-23-2006, 02:37 PM #49
You get to torture them to 30 lbs X 33 lbs .
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
07-23-2006, 02:46 PM #50Originally Posted by Pete LSD
07-23-2006, 03:26 PM #51Originally Posted by DinkAlot
-D600: 89, 295, 680, 8,0-8,5
-w11: 91gr, 295mm, 680mm, 8,0-8,5
-w7: 91, 295, 675, 8,5-9,0
-w10: 88, 293, 680mm, 8,0-8,5
? you sure bout the w7? shorter and less stiff than the other 3...
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