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Thread: A good badminton photo
10-01-2006, 09:56 PM #35
I use manual mode because the artificial lighting is constant and never changes, while the auto mode can be fooled by an all-white shirt or an all-black shirt.
The 200 f/1.8 is discontinued, Once there is sufficient demand, Canon will re-release the 200 f/1.8 sooner or later, maybe with even faster AF speed?
10-01-2006, 11:46 PM #36
taken durin the singapore open last year. this year thought be linesman got better chance to take but so busy that didnt really get any good shots.
taken at ISO800w 180/2.8 nikkor on a monopod. manual exposure...like hat storkbill says, the lighting never chance, wB also.
10-01-2006, 11:50 PM #37
Originally Posted by AChan
10-14-2006, 10:57 PM #38
Originally Posted by storkbill
Football has a super beast, ie Didier Drogba from Chelsea
Now badminton has a super beast as well..
04-26-2009, 09:53 PM #39
A little question for storkbill.
Did you removed the net or is it only because it is out of focus that we don't see it? We see it just a little bit and I'm not very used to this.
By the way, very nice picture.
Hope to be able to take pictures like that any time soon!
04-30-2009, 07:08 AM #40
06-25-2009, 09:30 AM #41
A very nice picture indeed.
-Is there any way to optimize a 70-300mm f/4-5.6 MF lens?
-I noticed the best speed for freezing the racket should be at least 1/320s. With a poor noise level in ISO 1600, is there any other way to be able to take a great action stance in lower shutter speed and lower ISO?
Thank you for the answer!
06-25-2009, 01:44 PM #42
^^Just my 4 sens worth..^^
- "Optimize" meaning increase the aperture opening from f/4 to say, a f/2.8 or bigger?? Erm, lens-wise, no. However, you can work around that aperture with the other camera settings (shutter speed & ISO).
- First part of your question. 1/320 is good, not the best, for "freezing" the racket or even the player. But usually, the higher the shutter speed the better. Also, w/that shutter speed, you may only freeze part of the racket as you could still get a blurred-looking racket head with that shutter speed.
Second part of your question i'm not too clear. It depends what you mean by "great action stance". But if i do understand it, yes, you could still take pics if you want some "blurred/movement" effects, with lower shutter speed & lower ISO (one can simply take a pic of a player serving, or standing still). However, if you want to capture crisp, sharp pics of high-flying actions of players lunging, jumping, diving, moving, you'd probably need a faster shutter speed and even a fast lens (preferably one that has a fast AF). Usually for baddy pics, the lighting plays quite an important factor. The thinking is, the more light there is in the hall, the better it is for taking baddy pics or any kind of action/indoor sports pics. Simply because action/indoor sports require fast enough capture and if one is handicapped by poor lighting, then the choice of equipments (camera & lens) will be narrower & one might not get the desired results.
On that note, yes, the sensor/chip technology in DSLRs has improved over the yrs. Thus, nowadays, an ISO higher than 1600 can still take pics w/almost no noise.
So, my suggestion is: if you want to take the same baddy pics as you've seen above, save some money and invest in a good camera body and a few good & fast lenses (although they may not be cheap)...and become one of us "baddy photog" fanatics...muahaha
Last edited by ctjcad; 06-25-2009 at 01:54 PM.
06-25-2009, 04:55 PM #43
just sharing 2cent... sometimes in indoor fluorescent lighting. if you shoot fast enough you can get weird result. its due to the refresh of the lighting.
06-26-2009, 02:56 AM #44
Thank you very much for the tips, I am learning this section of photography by hard since it's technically a combination between two of my addiction: badminton and photography
May I ask another question?
Any recommendation of a best value f/2.8 telephoto lens for Nikon, preferably AF-S type? *my body is a Nikon D40x
06-26-2009, 03:18 AM #45
- Oh, i see. Then if you want to "optimize" it, then i think the best setting would be @ 70mm because that will give you the best aperture opening @ f/4. It's probably not big enough, but you can be creative with it (w/shutter speed or ISO variations). If you zoom longer, then you'll minimize your aperture opening.
- I didn't know you're into baddy photog. If so, welcome and please do read the many threads in this sub-forum. I was in your shoes also not too long ago. But i've learned so many tips & tricks from the many photog masters here. Hopefully we'll see more of your pics in the future!
- Hmmm...hmmm..best value AF-S telephoto lens @ f/2.8 for Nikon. Well, it depends how long of a focal length you want to go with. I know fast prime lenses can be pricey but they tend to take a bit sharper pics. I only notice there are only 2 AF-S type telephoto lenses @ f/2.8 for Nikon (300mm & 400mm Nikkor; i notice there's a 200mm @ f/2!).
But if you want to compare, you can use this site, which i've used quite a bit to get other people's inputs; check the Nikkor lenses:
Last edited by ctjcad; 06-26-2009 at 03:26 AM.
06-26-2009, 08:25 AM #46
06-28-2009, 01:13 AM #47
..here's another thread which discusses sort of the same question/dilemma as yours.
Value lens(es) for your camera might be out there, but they're probably being carried by different brands (Tamron, Sigma etc.). However, quality and performance (AF speed) might not be up to par with Nikon or Nikkor lenses.
Oh, and if you haven't read the 1st page of this thread, there are some very sound advices given by some pretty good photographers themselves. And one of them actually owned a D70, a sister camera as your D40.
08-26-2009, 04:40 PM #48
I've learned so much from this thread and love Sigit's shot in those pix below. Is that a AT800def he's using?
I have a D60 and am learning how to use it. I'm so glad I don't have to deal with all the complications of dealing with film cameras, but also hope I can learn to be good with both digital and film.
Thanks Kwun for making this thread! and website! Whatever happened to 16feathers.com anyways?
11-03-2010, 02:39 PM #49
11-03-2010, 02:57 PM #50
Cropping: a, b or c?
Looking at these small version B looks best to me. C looses too much of the net having been impacted and A leaves a foot in and doesn't look as good in this small size ...
Last edited by demolidor; 11-03-2010 at 03:01 PM.
11-04-2010, 02:19 AM #51
nice of you to post.
In general, it's really up to you but what consistent features to get are:
1) the tighter you crop, the more impact of the photo
2) good facial expression can only add
3) shuttle in the picture adds effect but not mandatory.
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