I was wondering if any1 could help me with my crosses. Iv tied off my mains fine but i dont no how to start my crosses and from where? :crying:
so if stringing from the middle then which hole do i start at? and if starting from top down then do i tie off 1 end before starting?
1. Count how many holes on each side your racket has, and I will start right on the middle 2. Usually, the top section requires a bit less string length than the bottom section. 2. If start from 1 end (top or bottom), you need to tie off the end, then start to pulling tension on the crosses.
shuttle-house uses a very interesting one-piece stringing method: http://shuttle-house.com/page_top_JAPANESE/Service/String_guidance.html The stringer in the photo start the cross about 3/4 below the middle. The tie offs are the top and bottom of the cross. Let the photos do the storytelling.
That is very interesting & strange; wonder what the logic behind doing that would be?? Me, personally start from the top of the racket & work towards the throat & seems to be working pretty good; I guess it all depends on personal choice!!!
I think it because for most rackets, the bottow portion has less holes, and is thicker and stronger when compare to the top portion. Therefore, to maintain the "perfect balance" for the head frame when start in the "middle", the starting point is actually more toward the bottom, rather than the actual "middle in length".
I don't quite understand the Shuttle-House pattern. How do you go down to finish up the bottom 3--4 crosses after you finish the upper crosses, if it's all done in 1-piece?
I am guessing he leaves the starting clamp while he finishes the top portion & then comes back to do the lower portion.
I think it only applies for 2 pieces string method. Instead of start at the exact "middle of length", he starts at the "middle of strength".
As I can't read Japanese, I can't work out what that stringer is doing. But I can see the logic in tying off on a cross, as I do the same myself. My rationale is that tying off on a cross rather than on one of the mains close to the center allows more of the mains to redistribue evenly. I use a conventional 1 piece stringing, but with the tie off on the second cross from the top. The string bed on a 1 piece equal tension (for mains and crosses) stringing is significantly stiffer, and more or less eliminates the string movements even on a notriously movable MLXL. Because of the increased string bed stiffness, my optimum ultra low tension had to be reduced from 16lb to 15lb. When I get hold a super stiff racket like the DHS VS3000, I can expect to achieve the former professional tension of 13lbs .
After giving it a little more thought, the only practical way I can envision doing this in 1-piece is to use the short-side to finish off the bottom 2--3 crosses and the long-side to finish the rest bottom-up as normal. IMHO, this may work better when one doesn't use the Yonex pattern for the mains (i.e., last main comes out of 12T rather than 10T) because it would end up in shorter tie-offs. Nice. Learn something new everyday.
It makes sense. Actually, if the last main comes out @ 12B, then, it can be directly used for the "shorter" cross section, without even worry about the tie offs... However, I wonder with such method, it's that makes the crosses result with certain degree of tension difference when you use 2 different "tail pieces" from main for top vs. bottom crosses???
No problem SH! I am guessing the starting clamp is just for show - presentation for the camera audience. Shuttle-house's method should work very well with a six-point suspension machine. There is no need to add 10% on the cross tension.
Rather than starting a new thread, I thought I'd my 2-cents here about stringing the crosses differently. Especially to maintaining higher tension levels. Although, I've been starting from the top and ending at the bottom (2-string method), how about using a 3-string process (1 for the main, and 2 for the crosses). So let's say you start the cross(tie off knot) just below the sweet spot area (so roughly two-thirds down the raquet) and string towards the top and tie it off. Then cut the left over string and use it for the remaining third of the raquet. Then you start a new cross (tie off knot) on the opposite site of the first tie off knot and finish off the bottom third of the raquet. Using LB's method of starting in the middle, instead of clamping, why not start off with a tie off knot on the side? Any thoughts? Good or bad? Just a thought I had.