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  1. #1
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    Default 2lbs higher on cross with 4 knob string job

    I read the infor from the forum that the cross needs to have 2lbs tension then the straight to keep the shape of the racket. But I found different string places did different string jobs, some with two knobs, some with four knobs, and some with six knobs. Which one is supposed to be the best theoretically? Should the cross always have 2lbs more than the straight in any situation?

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    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    6 knots?

    Anyway, I feel BG80 is the best at holding tension so far and 4 knots aka 2-piece string will be the best and most accurate string job. 2 knots aka 1-piece will be the easiest and fastest string job.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot
    6 knots?

    Anyway, I feel BG80 is the best at holding tension so far and 4 knots aka 2-piece string will be the best and most accurate string job. 2 knots aka 1-piece will be the easiest and fastest string job.
    Do I still need 2 lbs higher on the cross with 4 knots job?

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    6 knots is mostly "patching" job (only replace 1-3 broken string piece), rather than re-string. According to yonex, their official pattern is 4 knots (2 pieces) string job, and they sometimes inspect it due to warranty claims. But I think most of the pro shops do 2 knots (1 piece) string job, as it saves string and time.

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    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by batrachian
    Do I still need 2 lbs higher on the cross with 4 knots job?
    Yes, Yonex recommends a 10% difference between the mains and the crosses.

    The only time you would not go higher and keep the tension the same for the mains and crosses is if you have a super duper stringing machine with superior side supports that can sustain the frame of the racket and not have the frame change shape. However, so far I have not tried nor seen a machine with side supports that can do this.

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    Yeap, Sir Dink got it right - not a single machine so far . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot
    Yes, Yonex recommends a 10% difference between the mains and the crosses.

    The only time you would not go higher and keep the tension the same for the mains and crosses is if you have a super duper stringing machine with superior side supports that can sustain the frame of the racket and not have the frame change shape. However, so far I have not tried nor seen a machine with side supports that can do this.

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    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD
    Yeap, Sir Dink got it right - not a single machine so far . . .
    But I have a design for one (as I'm sure you do too Peter).

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