Thread: Help with AT800 stringing pattern

1. Help with AT800 stringing pattern

Hi,

I tried searching but couldn't find an answer. I was wondering if anybody could provide an insight to this problem.

First, my machine and techniques:
- 2pt drop weight machine
- two piece stringing(4 knots)
- 4 flying clamps
- starting pin for the main
- alternate sides for main, top to bottom for crosses

The Problem:
I have provided an image of the AT800 stringing pattern at the bottom. Please use it as a reference while I explain the problem. Lets look at the right side of the frame. Imagine that I have strung all the mains upto B9.
- I'm at the bottom of B9 and will skip B10 and B11
- Will take string from B9 and string it into B12 through A15
- Tension string A15
- Clamp B9 and B12 <====PROBLEM

That's where the problem starts. I'm using flying clamps(also known as floating) which needs two strings to clamp. Remember that I have just skipped 2 holes from the bottom, 3 holes from the top. Clamping a wide distance seems like a bad idea but wait! There's another problem.
- Take string from A15 and string into A13 through B10

I couldn't find a way that will allow me tension the string at B10. The reason is because the string B10 is between B9 and B12. Remember, there is a clamp on B9 and B12. So the string B10 is sitting ontop of the clamp. I don't know how to get around this problem and was wondering if anybody could provide some suggestions. I was thinking of just tensioning it but was afraid of string breakage or other problems.

-Thanks

2. Tension the last two strings at one and clamp on B9 and B10. Also add 10% of tension.

3. Originally Posted by Alexccs
Tension the last two strings at one and clamp on B9 and B10. Also add 10% of tension.
Yes, I agree.

Also, right before tying the knot, pull the string a bit to minimize the slackness in between.

4. Three quick options off the top my head:

1. You can just not do the YY pattern for the mains. IOW, once you get to 9T don't go to 12T, but go to 10T up to 13H over to 15H down to 12T and tie off at 8T.
2. You can use the YY pattern, just double pull the last two mains.
3. Buy a machine with fixed clamps.

Sorry.

5. Quasimodo:
1) This seems like an interesting idea. Is there any disadvantages for not using the YY pattern and use the one that you suggested?
3) I was thinking of upgrading to an Eagnas Flex740. Just need to do some research on it. I'm still debating whether a cam gripper with ratchet mechanism is better than the linear gripper with ratchet machanism. I heard that the linear string gripper doesn't grip badminton strings very well and a business card trick should be use. I have the cam gripper and it works very well at the moment.

Everyone:
The double pull suggestion seems like the best idea but I was wondering about tensioning the last main. Usually, I add 10% tension to the last main but since I will try to double pull the last 2 mains, do I need to increase the percentage?

Also on the subject of double pulling, I sort of need to triple pull the first 3 crosses. If I try to clamp it from the top, the top plate and post gets in the way. If I try to clamp it from the bottom, the post gets in the way. I can't find a way to clamp the first two crosses. I would have to weave the first three crosses until I have room to use a clamp. I'm also using badminton clamps. Is there any solution around this problem beside getting a new machine ? The last bottom crosses can be clamped fine. It's just the top crosses that are causing the problem.

I have attached a picture to help illustrate the problem. You can see the the first two crosses are over the post. When trying to clamp from the top, the post doesn't allow the clamp to fully grab onto the string.

6. The only disadvantages for not following Yonex pattern are:
1. Cause possible warranty issue if you need it
2. Longer distance between B12 and B8 than B10 to B8. Longer distance means more slackness and more tension lost.

Seems your machine has very large mounting pad, therefore, the only the solution I can think about, is to tension each cross, but not clamp. Once you reach the 3rd cross, tension again, and let the bar settle for a while and then clamp. The purpose to tension the 1st 2 crosses more like to "pre-stretch" string, which to minimize the tension lost. This is not the greatest solution, but much better than tension 1st 3 crosses in 1 shot. The 1 shot method will lose a lot of tension due to string length and fricition forces between strings and gromments.

7. The clamp PN-3091P from Eagnas will work for you. This clamp is pretty narrow.

8. Originally Posted by Alexccs
The clamp PN-3091P from Eagnas will work for you. This clamp is pretty narrow.
A narrow clamp maybe let him tension 1st 2 in 1 shot, but tension lost still un-avoidable. Therefore, my "tension but not clamp" method still should work, but of course, this time, only need to do it on 1st cross, and 2nd cross could be clamped already.

Well, guess the "combo" solution is always better than a single method.

9. zasboy:

LB took the words right out of my mouth regarding the pattern.

As far as the gripper is concerned, I think it depends on the manufacturing quality of the machine. I never have issues with the linear gripper on mine. I clean it once in a while and I keep a folded business card handy just in case I've to work with thin slippy strings like some Ti-coated ones can be. But, if you want to stick with a rotational gripper system, something like this one is quite nice.

http://www.atssports.com/tennis.cfm?...6&secondary=31

10. AHHH!!! That's a bit out of my price range. Just keep in mind that I'm a poor college student

After doing some reading on various machine specification topics(mounting points, tension mechanism, etc), I decided that I will keep my machine and improve on my skills, techniques, and methods. Gaining experience is cool

Thanks for everyone who helped me. When I get around stringing the AT800, I will implement the double pull technique on the last two mains and pre-stretech the first three crosses.

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