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  1. #35
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    For the starting knot, if you only have three loops, try four to five loops. The result is to make starting knot much bigger and hence can't slip into the grommet.

    For normal knots, you can tie a single half-hitch knot first and slightly tension. Afterward, add a pro knot over the tensioned single half-hitch knot and apply slight tension.

    Hope this helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by zasboy
    Thanks Quasimodo and Pete LSD. I never knew about the 'Pro Knot' and will try it out as a my tie-off knot on the next string job. Looks like a very solid knot and better than the double half-hitch knot that I been using.

    But I got a question regarding about the starting knot. I use a two piece method and the starting knot is causing a problem for me. In my opinion, the knot looks small and when I would tension the first cross, the knot will sometime go through the grommet So is there any way around this problem? I don't know if there is another starting type knot I could use? I could use the Pro Knot, or double half hitch but aren't those consider tie-off knots? Maybe I am confusing the term starting and tie-off

  2. #36
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    Actually, you can use a combination of sewing needle (very small diameter) and sewing threads and tooth floss to get the cross string into the shared grommet. There are a few threads on this topic.

    For most shared grommets, you can rely on the tooth floss method. You can see the tooth floss in action here: http://www.badmintoncentral.com/foru...t=22331&page=7

    For the very tight shared grommets, you need the help of the sewing needle and thread and tooth floss as the last step.

    Quote Originally Posted by R20190
    Thanks Taneepak, I understand what you are saying. I know its not ideal tensioning from the side first, its better to start from the middle out - and alternating left-right. But I only realised this once I had finished prestringing this and started to tension.

    Anyhow, I'll start again from scratch and hopefully should be ok this time.

    I wanted to learn prestringing as I didn't have a solution for threading a cross string through a grommet with a tensioned main. I basically couldn't thread it through - ended up using a needle and pliers.
    Last edited by Pete LSD; 11-09-2006 at 03:12 PM.

  3. #37
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    A little attention to detail also goes a long way in working with shared grommets. It's often the case that the existing string sits more towards one side than the other (i.e., upper or lower portion). So, it's easier to thread the other string through the bigger gap rather than try to muscle it in through the smaller one.

    Of course, some racquets just have really tight grommets to begin with (e.g., AT700) that make things difficult. You can use Pete's toothfloss technique. I keep a scrap of BG70Pro around to use as a sort of plastic awl. A Ti-coated string also works quite well because it's slippy. So, whenever I need it a scrap string with a tube of Chapstick and a little patience never fail. But, really, most times the gap is there if you look for it.

    FWIW, HTH.

  4. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by R20190
    Thanks Taneepak, I understand what you are saying. I know its not ideal tensioning from the side first, its better to start from the middle out - and alternating left-right. But I only realised this once I had finished prestringing this and started to tension.

    Anyhow, I'll start again from scratch and hopefully should be ok this time.

    I wanted to learn prestringing as I didn't have a solution for threading a cross string through a grommet with a tensioned main. I basically couldn't thread it through - ended up using a needle and pliers.
    What I described earlier works whether you pre-string or not. Basically your machine with two fixed clamps can do without a starting clamp, unless you wish to use one as a jumper or string extender for your gripper. A 1-piece stringing job cannot have a starting knot because its two knots have no alternative to using the tie-off knot. A starting knot is a knot that is anchored onto an already tensioned string and is then tightened by the pull and tensioning of the string in the direction away from the starting knot. It is pulled and tensioned by the gripper and tensioner. A tie-off knot is not pulled or tensioned, in the manner that is done in stringing, by the gripper/tensioner. It is just a simple tie-off of the remaining untensioned part of the string.

  5. #39
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    Why make life complicated? Just start from the main (middle) and alternate each pull and do away with the starting knot regardless of 1 piece of 2 piece stringing method.

  6. #40
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    Dink! Dink! Dink! You get it .

    Quote Originally Posted by KooGuy
    Why make life complicated? Just start from the main (middle) and alternate each pull and do away with the starting knot regardless of 1 piece of 2 piece stringing method.

  7. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by KooGuy
    Why make life complicated? Just start from the main (middle) and alternate each pull and do away with the starting knot regardless of 1 piece of 2 piece stringing method.
    With 1-piece stringing you are right. But with 2-piece stringing, you can only avoid using a starting knot only with a special stringing pattern or the use of a starting clamp. Most 2-string jobs do use a starting knot.

  8. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by taneepak
    With 1-piece stringing you are right. But with 2-piece stringing, you can only avoid using a starting knot only with a special stringing pattern or the use of a starting clamp. Most 2-string jobs do use a starting knot.
    I think you refer to doing the cross where one will need to use a starting clamp or knot for 2 piece method. Here is how I do it for the cross string assuming I have only flying clamps and not trying to string more than 25 lbs. Just like stringing the main, start from the middle of frame, just clamp two strings, alternate the pull on each side.

  9. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by KooGuy
    I think you refer to doing the cross where one will need to use a starting clamp or knot for 2 piece method. Here is how I do it for the cross string assuming I have only flying clamps and not trying to string more than 25 lbs. Just like stringing the main, start from the middle of frame, just clamp two strings, alternate the pull on each side.
    That is what I mean "special stringing pattern", which incidentally is a prudent way to string the crosses if you are not too confident about your machine when using a starting knot.

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