Increasing tension after stringing

**Neil Nicholls** · 11-17-2006, 01:41 PM

Originally Posted by Matt

The problem is that the string has already been stretched

I don't understand why that is a problem.

But, in deferrence to your concern, I will have a hit with it before and after (if there is an after) to check the difference.

**silentheart** · 11-17-2006, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls

I don't understand why that is a problem.

But, in deferrence to your concern, I will have a hit with it before and after (if there is an after) to check the difference.

Even I gave you the method, I am still against the idea. It was just an idea. I also am against the idea of unstring the cross then restring because the you might bruse the main when you pull out the cross.

Just for your info. If you have a piano, find the key that match to your string tone before. By adding 1 lb on the main, it should be 1/2 note higher. 2 lb on the main should give you 1 note higher.

1 last thing, to go from 19 lb to 22/23 lb? You REALLY REALLY need to start from fresh.

**cooler** · 11-17-2006, 02:05 PM

Originally Posted by silentheart

Even I gave you the method, I am still against the idea. It was just an idea. I also am against the idea of unstring the cross then restring because the you might bruse the main when you pull out the cross.

Just for your info. If you have a piano, find the key that match to your string tone before. By adding 1 lb on the main, it should be 1/2 note higher. 2 lb on the main should give you 1 note higher.

1 last thing, to go from 19 lb to 22/23 lb? You REALLY REALLY need to start from fresh.

i rethink your idea over lunch. It's a novel idea. Only one potential downside not yet tested. Point pressuring (stress) from line to line isnt good for the string in question nor good for its adjacent strings perpendicular to it.

**Matt** · 11-17-2006, 02:07 PM

You woud probably figure out during the re-tightning of the string. Depending on the recoil memory of the string, the string may not go back to it's original shape or length when the string are off because they are designed so they can hold the tention when it is stretched. Therefore the string has been elongated. You would have to have to pull even more to get up to the desired tention, which results in more elongation.

The other problem is with possible nicks in the string. The last could pop up is that the string comes up short like a line.

**Neil Nicholls** · 11-17-2006, 02:49 PM

Originally Posted by silentheart

1 last thing, to go from 19 lb to 22/23 lb? You REALLY REALLY need to start from fresh.

Well that is the intention, really.
If I can undo the knots without trouble, the main idea is to untension all the strings and then start tensionsing again from the middle mains outwards, then the cross top to bottom.

**Pete LSD** · 11-17-2006, 09:00 PM

Untensioning is also tricky. If you release the strings all at once, the contraction of the string pushing against the grommets might damage the string surface. I have seen it first hand in a couple of string job where I almost finished the main strings. Because I forgot to lock the clamp to the machine, the string contract upon the release of the tensioner. So, I decided to start all over again and release the other side. In the process, the grommets nicked the string surface.

Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls

Well that is the intention, really.
If I can undo the knots without trouble, the main idea is to untension all the strings and then start tensionsing again from the middle mains outwards, then the cross top to bottom.

**Neil Nicholls** · 11-18-2006, 04:03 PM

Well, it is done.
Untying the knots (2 x half-hitch) wasn't as hard as I was expecting.

After a bit of thought I took all the string out and re-strung it from scratch. the reason for this was that I wanted to be sure I had the mains 50-50 on each side. String condition was pretty good, no noticeable notching. the only annoying thing was that the guy had applied his own stencil and the ink made the surface less slippery than BG68Ti usually is.

I increased by 4lb and was left with about 1 inch each side to tie the new knots.
I managed a starting knot that left only 1 cm of tail, and when I got to the bottom I had enough to tie the final knot easily, nearly 2 inches (but then I did tie off at 7 instead of 6).

All in all it probably took me 20 minutes longer than if I had started from scratch. I wouldn't particularly want to do it again, but at least now I know I can tie knots without much to work with.

**cooler** · 11-18-2006, 04:07 PM

Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls

Well, it is done.
Untying the knots (2 x half-hitch) wasn't as hard as I was expecting.

After a bit of thought I took all the string out and re-strung it from scratch. the reason for this was that I wanted to be sure I had the mains 50-50 on each side. String condition was pretty good, no noticeable notching. the only annoying thing was that the guy had applied his own stencil and the ink made the surface less slippery than BG68Ti usually is.

I increased by 4lb and was left with about 1 inch each side to tie the new knots.
I managed a starting knot that left only 1 cm of tail, and when I got to the bottom I had enough to tie the final knot easily, nearly 2 inches (but then I did tie off at 7 instead of 6).

All in all it probably took me 20 minutes longer than if I had started from scratch. I wouldn't particularly want to do it again, but at least now I know I can tie knots without much to work with.

it's good that went thru the process. It makes u a better stringer in the long run