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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Could you advise me about smart6000 electronic machine?

    Here the link

    http://www.eagnas.com/smart600.html

    Is it good for badminton raquets? Is there any problems to stringing on it?

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    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Never tried the Smart6000 but I know there will be one problem, as with all tennis biased/oriented/predominate stringing machines:

    The mounting system is a bit too long for a badminton frame and you will have to use excess string to reach the gripper.

    For example, on a badminton specific stringer, you will only need 7-8" of string to pull successfully. On the Smart 6000 or similar tennis dominate stringing machine, you will need at least 12"-14". Though that doesn't sound like a big deal or much difference, it can be a big hassle when stringing.

    In addition, unless you have a constant pull machine, the further away from the racket the string is the more inaccurate the tension will be. Tension loss immediately after the pull will be greater too.

    I solved this problem by trimming the supports down to reduce the length of travel on my stringing machine (Combo910).

    Here's a picture of the original Combo910:



    Here's my modified machine. I have, of course, polished up the edges and trimmed the other side to match:


  3. #3
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    How many hours did you spend on sawing the ends off, Master Dan? Too bad the WiseHead never got through.

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    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD
    How many hours did you spend on sawing the ends off, Master Dan? Too bad the WiseHead never got through.
    First side, the ugly one you see here took 45 minutes with a mounted rotary sander. It was silly of me. The second side took 5 minutes with a hand saw and was nice and clean.

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    Ehhhh, Master Dan's 215 lbs of gravity assisted thrust helps to cut down the sawing time .

    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot
    First side, the ugly one you see here took 45 minutes with a mounted rotary sander. It was silly of me. The second side took 5 minutes with a hand saw and was nice and clean.

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    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD
    Ehhhh, Master Dan's 215 lbs of gravity assisted thrust helps to cut down the sawing time .
    215lbs.? When did I get so thin? Thanks Sensei Pete!

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    So the problem on such machine is not very critical for a good professional stringing? I can confidently buy this machine for my badminton club?

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    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabfan
    So the problem on such machine is not very critical for a good professional stringing? I can confidently buy this machine for my badminton club?
    Not critical, just a minor irritation when it comes to the speed of stringing.

    Yes, I would say it's a good buy for a badminton club.

    It's stated the 6000 is a constant pull machine, you should confirm this.

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    What does it mean "constant pull machine"? How to check it? I think if its stated
    it should be the truth?

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    "
    .
    .
    .
    For example, on a badminton specific stringer, you will only need 7-8" of string to pull successfully. On the Smart 6000 or similar tennis dominate stringing machine, you will need at least 12"-14". Though that doesn't sound like a big deal or much difference, it can be a big hassle when stringing.

    In addition, unless you have a constant pull machine, the further away from the racket the string is the more inaccurate the tension will be. Tension loss immediately after the pull will be greater too.
    .
    .
    .
    "

    Just to side track a little...I can confirm the above statement - if you keep the string length pull to 7-8", it is easier for the drop weight's level to reach horizontal (less drops are required), at least it is true for my machine. Therefore, this will speed up overall stringing process. I think the longer the string length for pull, the more stretchgy it is, thus more drops are required.

  11. #11
    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabfan
    What does it mean "constant pull machine"? How to check it? I think if its stated
    it should be the truth?
    Constant pull means just that, the machine constantly pulls the string to maintain the tension and it will adjust according, either pull or release the string maintain the tension. Digital constant and drop weight machines are the only ones that do this. A crank machine cannot because once the crank locks, it does not move anymore.

    Constant pull is advantageous because you will get the truest, most accurate string pull.

    I've done a test and the crank machine instant lock will lose about 0.5lbs. within 2 seconds after it locks. I clamp the strings usually 0.75 to 1.5 seconds after I lock, so I lose about 0.2 to 0.3lbs. I try to stay consistent.

    The only way you can know for sure if the machine is constant pull is to purchase it and use it or if someone has it that can verify.

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    I don't understand really when should i clamp the string on my electronic machine. My machine pull the string on 23lb for example, then after 1 secont it pulls a little bit harder, so the string move 2mm up, than as it constant pull after another 2 second it pulls harder again! So, when should i clamp my string?

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    as soon it finishes adjusting the tension.

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    Most electronic machines should produce a beep sound when the string reaches the desired tension.


    Quote Originally Posted by cabfan View Post
    I don't understand really when should i clamp the string on my electronic machine. My machine pull the string on 23lb for example, then after 1 secont it pulls a little bit harder, so the string move 2mm up, than as it constant pull after another 2 second it pulls harder again! So, when should i clamp my string?

  15. #15
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    I've just got hold of the Pro's Pro pilot, which looks like a virtual carbon copy of a Combo 810. I'm not keen on hacking off the ends of my throat/head clamp slides, since I want to be able to string tennis and squash rackets as well (and especially considering the mess Dan made of his on his first try) so I'm wondering if the string gripper might be moved instead. The way I understand it, the gripper is passive with respect to the lockout mechanism, so where it is shouldn't make a difference.

    Any thoughts?

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    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Mess? ... My machine is now beauty to behold!

    As to your question, no, you can't move it. When you string badminton rackets, just remember to allow extra string for the increased distance.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    since I want to be able to string tennis and squash rackets as well (and especially considering the mess Dan made of his on his first try) so I'm wondering if the string gripper might be moved instead. The way I understand it, the gripper is passive with respect to the lockout mechanism, so where it is shouldn't make a difference.

    Any thoughts?

  17. #17
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Default Noisy, scraping crank mechanism

    Ah, yes, I see it now: it's the gripper that tilts forwards and compresses the tension spring. D'oh!

    While we're on the subject of crank machines, I'm getting a scraping noise whenever I rotate my new Pilot's crank handle. The head moves along the arm just fine, but very noisily. Unfortunately, this latest version of the Pilot has the main pulley covered up by a cowling so I can't see what the problem is.

    Would it be safe to just grease the heck out of it until it stops scraping?

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