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12-26-2006, 05:34 PM #1
Where to start tensioning? (Variations)
Sorry if this has appeared before somewhere else in this forum, but I need to know the answer quickly.
With respect to the two knot method, do people generally begin to tighten the strings from the point of the starting knot or from the centre to out to the side of the starting knot and then tie it?
12-26-2006, 05:55 PM #2
I'm not sure what you mean, picture please.
If it's what I think it means, it doesn't matter.
12-26-2006, 06:37 PM #3
I think the de facto standard method is to start from the centre and work your way out to the sides, alternating sides every 2 or 3 strings. Pretty much all stringing instructions I've come across are this way, although I know a few stringers here on this board who string mains from one side to another.
12-26-2006, 06:43 PM #4Originally Posted by Quasimodo
The ones I know that do left to right are old school stringers.
12-26-2006, 07:28 PM #5
Sorry for not being very clear about what I mean. The way Mr Quasimodo has described it is the way that I restring my rackets. Do anyone work from centre to out, complete the knot side without alternating, and the carry on as normal with the standard two know method stringing?
Thanks for your comments guys, even though my customers range from beginners to pros, this is a question that I have been getting quite a bit recently. Need some help to answer it.
12-26-2006, 08:38 PM #6Originally Posted by F-Man
In a perfect world, you would alternate every string from the center out. However, I find this unnecessary and time consuming. I do something like this (all tensioning going from the center out, total 22 strings, 11 left, 11 right, I have the bottom tie-off on the right side):
1) Tension the 3 center strings on left side (8 strings left on left side)
2) Then alternate to the right side and tension the 6 center strings (5 strings left on right side)
3) Back to the left side 4 strings (4 strings left on left)
4) Then right side tension 4 strings (1 string left on right for tie-off)
5) Then tension last 4 string on left (0 strings left)
6) Now tension the first two bottom cross strings at the same tension as the mains (25lbs.)
7) Go to 29-30lbs. and tension the last string on the right (tie-off)
8) Adjust back to 27.5lbs. and tension the third cross string from the bottom
9) Keep going until you finish.
Last edited by DinkAlot; 12-26-2006 at 08:40 PM.
12-26-2006, 08:42 PM #7
I'll do a detailed post with pictures of my 2 and 4 knots stringing methods one of these days.
The 4 knot is Yonex compliant! ...
12-26-2006, 08:47 PM #8
Does that mean you met Eepak's standard?
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
12-26-2006, 08:48 PM #9Originally Posted by Pete LSD
12-26-2006, 08:49 PM #10
You make Eepak proud then .
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
12-26-2006, 08:50 PM #11Originally Posted by Pete LSD
EC = Eepak Compliant!
12-26-2006, 08:51 PM #12
Hey, Master Dan EC is recently trademarked!!! Eepak will renew it every 10 years .
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
12-26-2006, 08:53 PM #13Originally Posted by Pete LSD
Last edited by DinkAlot; 12-26-2006 at 08:56 PM.
12-26-2006, 09:49 PM #14
One piece, 2-knot stringing has some merits, one of which is that saves the stringer some money if he uses bulk string reels. However, 0ne-pc 2-knot stringing is not good in preventing or minimizing frame distortion, irrespective of whether you start the mains from the middle, alternating or otherwise, or from one side. I have covered this one-piece stringing weakness in another thread.
12-27-2006, 02:25 AM #15
So could one of you experts i.e. Sir DinkAlot or Taneepak offer detailed instructions regarding the 4 knot method? Although I did not enrol into any kind of a professional course to learn how to string a rackets, I would like to think that I am at least competent at it compared to some of the master experienced stringers who visit this forum.
12-27-2006, 02:33 AM #16Originally Posted by DinkAlot
Two questions for you.
1. Last string on the right, why the much higher tension? Also, my coach and I play at 29 lbs, what do we do on this instance?
2. For the first two string across, why stay at 25lbs and not straight to 27.5lbs? Again, what would be the relevant tension if I normally play at 29lbs?
Thank you for your advice.
12-27-2006, 02:44 AM #17Originally Posted by F-Man
1. The last string on the right is the tie-off string. I go higher to account for the tension loss when you tie-off. If 29lbs., go to 32-33lbs.
2. Balance. If I immediately switch over to 27.5lbs. on the first cross string, it'll transfer over, even out with the last main string (higher tension on the last main string). There will be a slight imbalance with the other side (right tie-off) which is already usually lower in tension. To try and keep the tension balance as close as possible on both of the last main strings, I keep the tension at 25lbs. on the first two strings then switch over to the 10% difference on the third string. I know the third string will creep over to the 2nd and very remotely to the 1st cross string, but that's why I do it. Otherwise, I'd just switch over to 27.5lbs. on the second cross instead of the third.
For me it works really well, I get very close to 2-piece stringing results with 1-piece speed and convenience.
I'm still waiting for Eepak to comment on or any opinions he has on this method.
I've discussed with with some other local stringing experts, a couple of them Yonex Certified and they find my method very interesting and think it's just fine.
I'll post the 4-knot method in a moment, it's very easy too...
Last edited by DinkAlot; 12-27-2006 at 02:46 AM.
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